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28 minutes ago, LawrensonPhoto said:

The one thing I have learnt is to shoot and move on to the next one (immediately) I spent nearly every other day driving down to Hastings (45 mins) from me in February and didn't sell a single live news image, its gets me down of course, but it drives me to do better and when 4x $$$ licenses drop in on the last few days of the month which I was totally unaware that they had sold it makes it all worthwhile.

 

Seems like very wise words to me, another Alamy newbie. Good for you.

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Just now, LawrensonPhoto said:

Don't let the zoom thing bother you, what counts are sales! because when you do get your first zoom and it doesn't sell you will be even more disappointed.

 

I have already had a couple of sales - for a grand net to me of 99c each.  I think I would be less disappointed with a zoom ROTFLMAO

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Just now, Marb said:

Apparently forums on other sites are reporting this. Perhaps it's Google.

It's the beginning of the month, that's what it is!

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4 hours ago, losdemas said:

It's the beginning of the month, that's what it is!

Well the spike is still there so it is. No spike in sales sadly.

Edited by Marb
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On 05/03/2019 at 11:23, Starsphinx said:

Absolutely - I am working on the next batch before preparing for uploading.

 

I wouldn't stress - at least you have sales. I have had none (and zooms disappeared, for what it's worth).

 

I'm on hold again on EVERY platform, because I received some test prints from a lab that were way, way darker than comparing to my screen, and am now terrified I have mis-processed a lot of files as far darker than they should be.

 

Am waiting on prints from another lab to compare. In mean time, I dont' want to process/upload/submit for review to any agency/platform, and it's stressing me as really need to start making some sales somewhere, which won't happen if I can't get photos up 😕

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15 minutes ago, chris_rabe said:

I'm on hold again on EVERY platform, because I received some test prints from a lab that were way, way darker than comparing to my screen, and am now terrified I have mis-processed a lot of files as far darker than they should be.

 

Do you have access to another computer/laptop/tablet/phone? Have a look at your work preferably on two screens next to each other.

You should calibrate your screen though, if your images leave the house.

 

wim

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1 hour ago, chris_rabe said:

I'm on hold again on EVERY platform, because I received some test prints from a lab that were way, way darker than comparing to my screen, and am now terrified I have mis-processed a lot of files as far darker than they should be.

 

 

 

Just quickly scanning your images already on Alamy they don't look overall too dark as if you had a general problem with your screen. Most if not all printing companies give you a test image to download, if you've done so then does that look dark? If you haven't got two screens maybe email some to a friend and look at them there. not exactly scientific but could be helpful.

 

Colour calibrator pucks don't have to cost a lot, The X-Rite Eye-One Display 2 can go for as little as £20 on the well known auction site and DisplayCal software is free even if it can take a little time to get your head round it.

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1 hour ago, chris_rabe said:

 

I wouldn't stress - at least you have sales. I have had none (and zooms disappeared, for what it's worth).

 

I'm on hold again on EVERY platform, because I received some test prints from a lab that were way, way darker than comparing to my screen, and am now terrified I have mis-processed a lot of files as far darker than they should be.

 

Am waiting on prints from another lab to compare. In mean time, I dont' want to process/upload/submit for review to any agency/platform, and it's stressing me as really need to start making some sales somewhere, which won't happen if I can't get photos up 😕

 

Agree with wim - do calibrate your screen.

 

This may help you a bit until then, perhaps. Google can probably deliver a useful translation. 

 

https://fotografuddannelse.nu/test-din-skaerm/

 

Edited by Niels Quist
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1 hour ago, wiskerke said:

 

Do you have access to another computer/laptop/tablet/phone? Have a look at your work preferably on two screens next to each other.

You should calibrate your screen though, if your images leave the house.

 

wim

 

Oh, I have my screen calibrated - using spyder 4 and dispcal. Though I obviously wasn't thinking clearly on brightness (backlight level)

 

To get my screen to more or less match luminance of prints, I had to turn my brightness way, way down. Now it looks too dark in my opinion. 

 

Previously when I had printed canvas prints, I did not find this an issue at all.

 

So, I just don't want to do anything else until I have prints from my UK lab to compare with.

 

I suppose I should really invest in a decent printer for home...

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Well I do now have a zoom - but probably a bad zoom as the search term was my surname and it is an old Live News image (note to self go and edit captions for live news stuff once it enters main stock)

I found I  had a problem underexposing my images because I ran my laptop screen full brightness so what looked fine on there looked awful elsewhere.  I ran the screen bright because I love light - I suffer the variant of SAD where instead of getting depressed and miserable I will literally hibernate (like if not controlled I can sleep 18 hours in 24 during winter).  Anyway after getting my wrist slapped on here with people telling me my stuff was underexposed I turned the screen down (and have now moved processing to my desktop anyway for other reasons) and my more recent images are much better exposed.

I have calibrated my screens as best I can using online sites and that - a new monitor with better colour balance is on my list of things to buy (along with that super duper lens lol).  It is amazing the things you become interested in that you never knew existed when you get seriously into this stock stuff.  Still, it is another way of silencing the "what do you need that great camera for my phone takes brilliant photos" idiots - ask them about screen calibration.

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Keeping an eye on the histogram in your post-processing tool(s) isn't a bad thing to do. While monitor's and how well they are calibrated may vary, the histogram won't. As a general rule, unless one of my images is obviously meant to be dark (e.g. night shot), I will often change exposure/contrast if it looks like it is too far to the left on the histogram.

Edited by Matt Ashmore
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2 hours ago, chris_rabe said:

 

Oh, I have my screen calibrated - using spyder 4 and dispcal. Though I obviously wasn't thinking clearly on brightness (backlight level)

 

To get my screen to more or less match luminance of prints, I had to turn my brightness way, way down. Now it looks too dark in my opinion. 

 

Previously when I had printed canvas prints, I did not find this an issue at all.

 

So, I just don't want to do anything else until I have prints from my UK lab to compare with.

 

I suppose I should really invest in a decent printer for home...

Taking a quick look, you don't seem to have a problem with your recent subs here.

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3 hours ago, chris_rabe said:

To get my screen to more or less match luminance of prints, I had to turn my brightness way, way down. Now it looks too dark in my opinion.

 

Mine are at 100 cd /m2

When I was working in a brighter room they were a bit higher.

 

wim

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11 minutes ago, wiskerke said:

 

Mine are at 100 cd /m2

When I was working in a brighter room they were a bit higher.

 

wim

 

Out of interest, roughly how bright is the environment you're working in?

 

Mark

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3 hours ago, M.Chapman said:

 

Out of interest, roughly how bright is the environment you're working in?

 

Mark

 

No direct light at daytime nor at nighttime.

Now where's my lux meter?

Ok let's get a camera then: At 100 ISO it's 1/8s at F 2.0.

My phone says 45 Lux. Which would be around 1/4s.

 

I'll do daytime tomorrow.

 

wim

 

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32 minutes ago, wiskerke said:

 

No direct light at daytime nor at nighttime.

Now where's my lux meter?

Ok let's get a camera then: At 100 ISO it's 1/8s at F 2.0.

My phone says 45 Lux. Which would be around 1/4s.

 

I'll do daytime tomorrow.

 

wim

 

Suggest target is a matt white sheet of card laid on keyboard, I’ll check mine tomorrow too.

 

Mark

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Just now, M.Chapman said:

Suggest target is a matt white sheet of card laid on keyboard, I’ll check mine tomorrow too.

 

Mark

 

I used an 18% grey card.

 

wim

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