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About M.Chapman

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  • Joined Alamy
    12 Jan 2010

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  1. I find it's often worth trying the Auto button (in the Tone panel). Sometimes the result is rubbish, but quite often I find it's good (I'm using the latest LR CC) or it at least provides a useful starting point. Mark
  2. Not just BHZ, try test searches for subjects you normally photograph and see where your images appear. It would be great if Alamy did start doing regular re-ranks again (they used to be roughly every 6 months), but I wonder if something "broke" around the time they introduced the new AIM with revised database structures and they haven't fixed it since 😞 Mark
  3. If you've got a clone disk, then you could try booting from it and then upgrading it to Mojave and seeing what works? I tried Mojave very briefly but decided that it didn't have any new features that warranted the upgrade since Dark mode didn't work well with some of my apps and light mode no longer allowed the dock and menus to be dark. So I reverted back to High Sierra. Mark
  4. My CTR changes monthly too. But CTR isn't the same as Alamy rank. It's just one of the factors that maybe used to calculate our Alamy rank when, and if, Alamy ever do a rerank again. You can keep an eye on your true Alamy rank by recording the position of your images in a number of test searches. Mark
  5. It will if Alamy ever get round to doing a rerank... I reckon it's probably around 2 years since the last one. Mark
  6. I use the CTR graph on my Alamy Dashboard for that. Current CTR% (end of March) = 0.81 Mark
  7. Have you allowed at least 24 hours for the database to update after you've entered a caption and tags? Mark
  8. If the quality of the original slide is good enough and the "Thing" aligns the slide accurately (perpendicular to lens axis), then I'm sure it's possible to get images accepted by regular Alamy QC using a setup like Ian's. I recently had a submission of DSLR digitised 35mm slides go thorough regular Alamy QC (with a delay so it seems likely at least one image in the submission was looked at). Lightbox of example images here. Mark
  9. I'm glad and relieved that it's working for you . After you've removed the UV filter, I guess Alan might find it useful if posted another un-cropped picture of a slide together the dimensions of the window in that slide. That might allow him to refine the design in case he wants to sell/supply to others with the same lens? Mark
  10. The image looks smaller than expected. Ian, Have you got a filter (UV etc.) fitted to the front of your 100mm lens before you fitted the P adaptor? If so, I suggest removing it. Also they look like a card slide mounts? Are you able to check the size of the window in the slide mount and let us know what it is? I suspect it's quite a bit smaller than 36 x 24 mm (35mm exposed film area). For example the window in the Kodachrome cardboard mounts I have are only about 34 x 22.5mm. Alan, Ideally the "Thing" would allow the full area of a 35mm slide (36 x 24mm) slide to be copied with a little margin, so that the full area can be copied when using a film strip holder or remounting the slide in a mount with a larger (full size) window. The 140mm length I suggested was from the front of the lens to the slide (i.e. includes the P mount) which should achieve this, assuming the 133mm working distance that Ken Rockwell quotes is correct.... Update - I see that this website quotes a working distance of 130mm, so pretty close to Ken Rockwell's value. Mark
  11. I'd be more worried about the outside of the parcel that the delivery driver has just touched than the contents of the parcel which have been in transit for days. Mark
  12. Assuming I've understood what you're describing, the explanation might simple. The exposed 35mm film area is specified as 36mm x 24mm (full frame), a 3:2 ratio. This matches your camera's APSC sensor which is 22.3 x 14.9mm, (also 3:2). But the window in the slide mount is often smaller to allow some tolerance for film mounting without showing the film rebate. Suppose the slide mount allows a 1/2mm all round. The window in the slide mount will then be 35mm x 23mm which is a 3.04:1 ratio. So the image falling on the camera sensor will be wider than the sensor (if the height just fits). I've just measured some of my slide mounts from different manufacturers using a digital caliper and there's quite a range of window sizes. I've also noticed, while copying slides from different manufacturers, on a fixed magnification set up, the amount of mount that appears as a border around the captured image varies quite significantly. I find it's easiest to set the copying system up to include a small amount of the slide mount in the captured image and then crop in PS or LR afterwards. This allows the setup to deal with small variations in alignment of the slide or in the size of the mount window. Sometimes, I also need to remove the film from the original slide mount and put into one with a larger window because the slide mount has cropped an important part of the image. Mark
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