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I had an image in national media on the 19th Oct, but it's not showing in my account, how long would it normally take to show up? I had another image sell 2 days ago got 65 bucks only to get refunded today, how can I ensure it's not used now they have downloaded it? Thank you, here's a screenshot of the article in question. <a href="https://ibb.co/1R0fXhR"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JrcRp0r/Screenshot-20231109-074031-Chrome.jpg" alt="Screenshot-20231109-074031-Chrome" border="0"></a> [url=https://ibb.co/1R0fXhR][img]https://i.ibb.co/JrcRp0r/Screenshot-20231109-074031-Chrome.jpg[/img][/url]

I'm new to Alamy, and I'm trying to put my vectors on sale. I uploaded a bunch of EPS files via FTP (FileZilla and Xpics) by sending them to /Vector folder. I was sending EPS files alone as well as with JPG files which contains metadata. But as result my images nowhere to be seen on the site, and I'm currently out of the options what could be wrong...

I've spent hours online reading and watching YouTube videos, then spoke to the pros at a few NYC camera stores, but I still need help. Specifically, I need advice about a good pano setup and, separately, a macro focusing rail (to take macros outdoors with a tripod, not indoors for slides and negatives). During Covid, I switched my focus from travel and editorial to landscape and nature. I've had luck selling photos to hospitals, particularly panoramas. So, I need better gear in order to up my game and compete in a crowded market. I've narrowed down some equipment choices, but since I don't want a big multi-level panoramic rig, the camera stores dropped the ball when it came to many of the components for a single level set up. So, I need your help I've already decided that Nodal Ninja ($400) and the similar large multi level pano setups are too unwieldy & heavy for hiking. Plus, overkill for single level panos. I settled on a simple Sunwayfoto nodal rail (good reviews for all their products) and for a simple rail, many folks with Really Right Stuff gear opted for the same $35 rail rather than shell out $100 for RSS. I got the 140mm nodal rail. I considered buying a multipurpose rail to use with a sliding clamp for macros, but decided the nodal rail is easier to set up precisely each time, since the clamp is fixed at one end, and I only have to match the numbers I've deduced from my testing with the midpoint of the tripod, rather resetting the clamp each time & calculating from there. And the multipurpose rail would entail jerkily sliding the clamp by hand for macros, not good for stacking focus with precision. Sound right (or wrong) so far? The rail is here, nodal points tested, but I still need a panning clamp. Apparently, leveling one on top of a ball head, let's me level my tripod from there rather than trying to level the legs on uneven ground. B&H recommended a Camvate clamp for $26 with no reviews anywhere: (it's all they had available other than RRS @ around $300 or full panning heads up to $700+ heavy & not needed. Other Camvate products had bad reviews on Amazon, a red flag for me. No info on load either - others can manage 44lbs. I'm leaning toward a Benro Panning Clamp on sale at Adorama for $99 (usu around $125) that got great reviews. Some guy twisted it 90 degrees, then hung a sandbag off it and there was barely any creep. Not bad for something made to rotate. It's a big jump from the cheap one, but I can safely use it at 90 degrees like a quasi gimbal - There are also a few by Sunwayfoto between $50 and $90, among the $90 ones there's a geared panning clamp intended for architecture, but astrophotographers seem to love it. They also have a panning clamp/indexing panoramic base combo around $90 with very mixed reviews. Indexing would be nice at dusk, I guess but if if it's not top-notch it's just added weight, right? Thoughts? Geared, Indexing, Brand? Any experience with these or other Benro or Sunwayfoto products? Really Right Stuff, even "visibly used," is over $200 for just the clamp (nearly $300 & up new), too much for a single component, I think. The Nodal Ninja could be cheaper because I don't need L-Brackets if I use the full rig - but if I'm at a windy beach or marsh, I don't want that height atop my tripod. It also weighs twice as much as my ball head, rail and L bracket combo - and the similar full pano rigs by RRS & Manfrotto are even bigger. (I swooned over my friend Joe Brady touting the Novaflex setup - but it makes RRS look like a bargain). Any experience with these? Any other suggestions? I don't want to cheap out, but I'm already looking at a few hundred for all these bits and pieces - clamps, brackets, it all adds up. I have a Manfrotto 190 series "mag fiber" tripod (the legs are carbon fiber, the removable center post is aluminum). It's still in great shape at nearly 20 years old, despite banging around in my car and getting its feet wet in the sea. Depending on what I read, the legs can handle between 8.8 and 33 lbs - someone is clearly wrong - I've written to Manfrotto to clarify - but my memory says around 12-15 lbs - and my lightweight ball the head is rated for 26 lbs - plenty extra for torque at 90 degrees. I mostly used it for my heavier equipment, often on windy piers along the New England coast, with my D700 and Sigma 50-500mm lens (6+ lbs) plus a 2 lb. trigger head, with a bag full of other equipment hanging as counterweight. It worked without a shudder, sharp at 500mm, so 8.8 lbs sounds low. My pano rig - L-bracket, nodal rail, even with heaviest Sony, heaviest telephoto, and light ball head, weighs in around 4.27 lbs and I'll mostly use my lighter 50mm prime shaving nealy a pound off. The only weight to add is the panning clamp which the Nodal rail slides right into. How can I use a Manfrotto with L Brackets and other Arca Swiss clamps and plates? For $35, I got a Sunwayfoto clamp and adapter combo to convert my ball head so it now takes both Manfrotto and Arca Swiss plates (really awesome!!!). The fit is perfect and tight. I didn't want to give up my Manfrotto plates with Black Rapid attachments for my slings ...and always prefered the Manfrotto system ...but it's great how the nodal plate dovetails right into the Arca Swiss clamp. Best of both. I'm confident I can recoup the cost of the pano system, since I've been selling panos through an agent and she'd like me to add more, but I can't imagine the RRS is 3x better than the Benro or Sunwayfoto Clamp (tell me if I'm wrong) (Even if the Novaflex is 10x better, it's still too much). I've never used an L bracket - there's a Nisi for the A7rii (great reviews and it looks beautifully made), one that looks like a 3 Legged Thing clone for the A7riv - the real thing is backordered everywhere I looked & aside from a $200+ RSS, can't find many options for that camera. Is it that important to get the best L bracket if it's only for use on the tripod? There are a few used RRS - again for the A7rii (around $85-90, 2x more than the Nisi which is new, and I think better designed since the RRS requires you to take the battery door off and attach it to the bracket- the A7rii came with 2 batteries because they drain super-fast) I usually take three along with me for a day's shooting. I doubt I'll use the bracket other than for vertical shots for stitched panos, though the Nisi and RSS both have 1/4" holes I can screw a Black Rapid clamp into. The design of the Nisi is pleasing and light. Any A7riv ideas? There's also a "well used" RRS bracket for the Oly for only $20 - must be pretty beat up since they run around $200 new, if you can find one for such an early mirrorless. I'm tempted because multiple Olympus shots are faster to combine at 16 vs 61MP apiece...and I still think about springing for their 60mm macro lens with its great stacked focus reputation... but I don't need to shoot macro with an L-bracket. The brackets for mirrorless required a redesign from DSLRS, so I could use some mirrorless input here. I doubt I'll recoup the cost of a macro set-up as quickly, since I'm still learning and the "little things" I picked up used at KEH have already added up - used extension tubes for my Nikon 20mm & 50mm primes to experiment with wider angle macros (I saw a Laowa 50mm Macro that focused right up to the glass, but restrained myself). I also picked up a used B+W 77mm close up filter, good in the 70-105 range of my 24-105 lens, which makes that walking around lens even more versatile. I can also use it with step down rings on a 200mm Olympus prime & on my 90mm macro for more than 1:1 reach. (Between used & new, I spent about $250 on lighting: 2 LCD Lume Cube Go Panels, a battery pack that doubles as a stand, & a combo cold shoe/light stand mount) My flash won't work with my Sonys, my Elinchrome studio lights are great but in a tiny house they're a nightmare to put up & take down daily, so this seemed good for tabletop, even for extra light in the kitchen for some food grab shots, and I can use them on the go instead of a ring light for macro. Smaller than my phone but powerful light even at 5%. In addition to practicing on small tabletop objects, I hope to have plenty of flowers and veggies in my garden. My understanding is that I can't do real focus stacking without a rail - correct? Also needed to photographing my negatives, right? There was a classic Minolta for around $85 last week (if it's still there), but I thought it would be cumbersome to take along to the woods on tripod. Yes/no? The Nisi got great reviews. It's $129, but unlike simply sliding clamps along a multi-purpose rail by hand (about $60 for the components), it has a geared system that lets you stack focus in small accurate increments( & it comes with a really nice Arca plate as a bonus). Top reviews for good design like their L-Bracket. Saw photogs use it simply for framing macro subjects without constantly moving the tripod & for fine focusing too (No creep facing down - at least none with a 90mm lens). The Novaflex bellows system looks great. Way beyond my budget. Part of the reason I'm tempted to get it now (still snow on the ground here) is that I'm assuming it's also helpful in nailing focus when tabletop shooting? I have no experience with these things, so I'm trying to decide, along with what brand to get, whether my assumptions about why I want one are correct or is the use more limited & specialized? I think that I can use my small travel tripod with the legs spread on my dining room table instead of spending another $100 on a tabletop one sturdy enough to hold the rail. One video I saw said the legs of the Nisi didn't hold it steady on a table, but he loved it otherwise. Sorry for the novel, I did so much research that now I'm stuck. Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated as always. I think I'd be lost without you guys.

I am in a quandary about where to go with hardware purchases. Sorry this is so long but I've got a lot to consider. I need to purchase either a new iMac or a monitor and, instead of getting an iPad which can only run PS and LR mobile, I plan to get a pen display tablet where I can draw on a screen that displays my images. But I'm not sure which combination of options makes the most sense. I just had a new battery and keyboard replaced on my 3-year-old MacBook Pro, which I supercharged with 32MB RAM and a 2TB hard drive, using my 2011 iMac as a monitor when needed, though I mainly use the Retina screen on my laptop which has a very detailed display because the 27" screen is hard on my neck since it's so large even when situated far back on an old deep teacher's desk. In addition to shooting stock, I've been selling more fine art through agents and via POD sites, and am often working with 42 and 61MP files. I do a lot of straight photography, but also do occasional freehand painting/illustrations in PS and would like to do more of that. I borrowed a Nikon scanner from a friend and am hoping to digitize a lot of old 35mm negatives from the 1970's as well as some old family slides my dad took in the 1960s-1970s. I'll do my best with dust beforehand, but know I'll have a lot of spotting to do. I have a very old Wacom Bamboo tablet but I want to upgrade to a pen display tablet where I can actually see my image on the tablet but am in a quandary as to what size to get. While the Cintiques look amazing, I think I'll opt for one of the less costly brands such as Huion or XP-Pen. I was planning to purchase an iPad but since it only runs the mobile versions of LR & PS, a pen drawing tablet makes more sense. I'm just not sure what size makes sense. One option I'm considering is a large display XP-Pen that can double as monitor (the newest one has great color fidelity) but is working on a massive drawing tablet that I can only use at my desk (about 26" with the express keys) a crazy option for photo editing and occasional drawing? It can tilt like a drawing board which is great but I'm only 4'11' and worry that working on a huge display on a desk will be hard on my back? I love the idea of a tablet doubling as a monitor but wonder if a portable 13 or 16 inch drawing tablet that I can use at a desk and on the couch is a better option? I hope that as the world opens up I'll travel more, which includes extended stays with my daughter, where portability makes sense, and I've had no problem making huge prints that I've edited on my 15" laptop, with excellent color and clarity, though there are times when a larger screen would speed things along. So, if I opt for the smaller drawing tablet, I should get a monitor or a new iMac. Do any of you use a pen display tablet? What size do you use and why do you like it? I find that my back and neck are much better since I've been doing most work on my laptop but I do want a larger screen sometimes but have been debating monitor or iMac? Getting an iMac would probably extend the life of my laptop, but if a monitor costs a lot less with better color fidelity, maybe an iMac is more than I need? Do most of you have a desktop & laptop? Or do you prefer a laptop and monitor? Why? Three years ago, I got the souped-up MacBook Pro instead of upgrading my then 7-year-old 2011 iMac, thinking it would let me buy one computer instead of two, but I didn't think about the fact that laptops just don't seem to last. I can't use my current iMac as anything more than a monitor these days and even then it's iffy due to age and hard on my neck due to its size so I need a new monitor or iMac. I know there are lots of monitor discussions here so I just want to know your thoughts on monitor vs. iMac, and can research accordingly. If I do opt for an iMac, I'm wondering what the minimal 24" iMac purchase is that you'd recommend to work on large files in PS and LR Classic or would you recommend the one computer laptop/monitor option since you can't get more than 16GB RAM on a new iMac? Is a monitor/laptop a cheaper option or does the wear and tear on a laptop as your only computer negate any savings? Thanks for your help.

Hi there! I recently signed up and now my first images passed and I put them up for sale. It would be awesome if you guys could tell me what you think of my Mavic Air 2S drone shots of Switzerland and if they fit the criteria! Thanks in advance! Dylan

Hi Everyone Can anyone please take a look at my portfolio and just give me some idea where im going wrong. Ive been submitting now for 2 months and not had one single sale. I sell to other microstock sites and do ok, why I am not getting sales here. Is my portfolio just not good enough or is what I photograph more related to microstock and shall I stop wasting my time submitting here Thank you in advance - Steve

so recently my photos had failed qc due to 1 of the images , how can i re upload the passed ones and replace the failed with something else , i have tried pressing upload and doing it again but just says failed and wont let me select new images to upload ... plz help me

Any help would be appreciated! My images seem to sporadically load with issues & flaws. For past few months I’ve giving up trying to upload completely as every image gets a message it’s to small. I’ve tried every size and get the same message. I tried deleting the app and reinstalling and that seems to worsened the problem! Any help would be appreciated, I’m guessing it’s something obvious I’m overlooking! Thanks!

Heya - I'm Alex, a passionate photographer. I recently uploaded my test submission, but I believe an error occurred, and I want to see if I can take it back. I only uploaded one image for my test submission and the image is already in QC. I believe that the system requires you to upload 3, but my one image automatically was sent to QC, and I can't upload any more images. However, it also isn't the image I want to upload - and I can't upload the other 2 images I need to upload, so I was hoping if I can take the image back and re-upload my images for my test submission. The ID of the image is 2CCJCYR. I completely understand if it isn't possible, but I was hoping for something. :)

Hi, I’m Alex, a new user here at Alamy. My test submission images were rejected for no metadata, but how exactly do I add EXIF data to my images? Do I upload a new image with all the data, or is there a special place for me to input it?

Hey everyone, I’m Alex, a new photographer at Alamy. I’ve got a few questions :) 1) How long exactly does it take for my images to be reviewed? I’ve heard a day and 3 weeks, but I just wanted some confirmation. :) 2) Is there a way I can stay signed in? Every time I sign in, after awhile I’m out again... 3) Can I not add a payment method (for now)? I’m willing to add one later, but will my account balance be rest if I add/change one? 4) Will my images go live after I add the tags/title/etc., or does Alamy have to do a quick check? :) 5) How can I create and access my portfolio? I know the URL is something like alamy.com/portfolio/username, but it doesn’t work... Thanks!

Hi guys, looking for help from @John Richmond or another one of you plant geniuses. I took this photo of what I'm thinking are rose bushes they are a reddish pink with white centers so maybe not roses? Though the buds and the shape of the opening flowers certainly look like roses to me, as opposed to say some sort of peony. Taken in the spring in Annapolis, Maryland, USA, (on the grounds of the Naval Academy I believe). Any help you can provide much appreciated. Thanks! It will be 2AED59H when it goes on sale. I just added a tentative caption.

What's the consensus on the Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 lens? I have been shooting with primes since I got my Sony A7rii about a year and a half ago. I have the Sony Zeiss 35mm f/2.8, the Sony Master FE 90mm f/2.8 macro, and a Rokinon 12mm fish-eye lens, and have also been using legacy Nikon and Olympus lenses with a couple of different adapters (the Zuiko 50mm, 28mm and 200mm's from my old OM-1 film days and my Nikon 20mm, 50mm and lensbaby). I like using primes and find that my favorite lens on the camera is the Nikon 20mm, with the 90mm Macro a close second. The 35mm is a great walking around lens since it's so light. Love the ultra wide fisheye too but it's heavy and not something I'm going to lug around all day. Both of the 50mm's have beautiful bokeh - the Nikon is an f/1.4 from the 1970's, around the same age as my legacy Olympus Zuiko's. There's something about those old film lenses I really like... but carrying a bag full of primes along with assorted adapters defeats the idea of going light - that's where my Oly and the Sony differ since the Oly mirrorless lenses I have are all so tiny and light. So, I need some advice. Is the convenience worth the price? Will I regret not filling my bag with primes? I resisted buying the 24-105mm or one of the 24-70mm's when I got the camera, but now I'm thinking it would be nice to have a lens that covers so many situations. For example, if I'm headed into NYC for the day, I usually pop on the light 35mm and zoom with my feet, but I'll be doing a photo walk during PhotoExpo in a couple of weeks and realize that it might be really nice to have one lens that will cover so much ground. Can it satisfy a pixel peeper? Is it worth the price for the convenience and is it a good lens or will I find myself in pixel-peeping hell? Alamy has made me into a pixel-peeper, so I worry that I might not find a lens that covers so much ground is going to hold up under such scrutiny, but it would really cover nearly any situation. Is Weight an issue? I think it weighs a tad more than the camera, but less than any of the zooms I used regularly with my Nikons. I made the switch to mirrorless to keep my kit light, and have a bad neck and back, but I don't think it would be too heavy, especially if it was the only lens I took along for the day. Is it fast enough to shoot at night? I like the fixed focal length and given Sony's low light capabilities, I'm thinking it would be fine to use even at night. Thoughts on whether you can use it all day and at night too, without a tripod, also appreciated. I'm used to some fast primes but I think that f/4 will be okay, especially if I use it toward the wider end at night. Sony anti-shake isn't as good as IBIS on the Olympus, but I'm guessing between cranking up the ISO and taking advantage of the OSS, night shooting sans tripod isn't an issue. Am I right? Advice welcome. Thanks!

Hi. I'm wondering if any of you can id this tree and the lichen growing on it? I took the shot on a cloudy day this past Sunday on my way home from opening our family cottage near the beach in Connecticut. It is growing by the backwaters, a tidal salt marsh fed by the Long Island Sound close to where it meets the Atlantic Ocean, just off the coast of Rhode Island. (We used to "surf" on a friend's canoe where the waters would get rough when I was a kid - a bunch of us balanced on the benches, winner was the last one standing). Anyway, I think it could be a fruit tree of some sort - the leaves are barely sprouting. If you can ID the lichen, but need to see the leaves, I can take a look later this summer (in a month or so when I'm back- late May or early June) and see what the leaves and buds look like and post a new photo. I loved the gnarled bark and lichen so it would be great to id them. I'm reprocessing the photo because I realized my last pass with chromatic aberration reduction made a mess leaving a border around the branches that I missed. Anyway, here's the link - if you need to download a large size image, lmk. I'll set it up and leave the password here. I think you can see enough online with the full size image at PS. Public Link It's a Tiff so it takes a few seconds to load. If it's too slow, I'll upload a jpeg. Thanks much!

I've had these up on Alamy for a while and realize that I never identified the species of sea star (or starfish to us old-time beachcombers). I did a ton of research and I mean I spent several hours searching online scientific databases as well as Alamy and SPL and other reputable sources and some of what I found must be wrong because these have been identified as a common sea star, which is apparently the same species as a Northern sea star, Asterias rubens also known as Asterias vulgarus a Forbes sea star, Asterias forbesi. The description of the Forbes sea star seems to be closest, but from the photos on sites I trust it is hard to be sure because they show them alive in the sea and not dried as this one is. They also show the same sea star with varying id's. These first two species are among the most common in the North Atlantic Ocean. Although I usually do my own beach combing, I purchased it in a store in Newport, Rhode Island, so while it's more likely to be from the Atlantic Ocean, it may not be. I was told it was a "sugar starfish" which seems to be more of a decorator's term than a scientific one, although again I've seen it applied to both common and Forbes sea stars as well as to Ochre sea star, Pisaster ochraceous, which is a species found along the west coast of the US and Canada from as far north as Alaska down to Southern California. In the photos I've seem both live and dried, this seems like the most likely culprit, but I'd love input from those with more knowledge. Help much appreciated. Thanks! I'm attaching 3 photos. Here's EFWGW4