Back from Africa

[ernest]

Some days ago, I came back from a three months trip in Ethiopia. It was my third journey in this country but this time was the best ( in terms of photo production) and the worst ( in terms of dirty tricks). As I had already seen the tourist destinations of the country, I had chosen to take the road less travelled, to visit places where tourists don't go. Good idea ? Not sure. As an independent traveller who takes photographs, I attracted the suspicion of the local people. Three times, I have been embroiled with local people and ended up in police stations for checking ( passport, visa) and questioning ( why are you here ? why do you take photos ? why aren't you where other tourists are ?...). The worst time was the second time when I was betrayed by my own guide, Hagos the bastard ( a asshole who is working in the tourism sector !!!). Because he was not pleased I was taking pictures of a particular community the local people despise. ( The local community involved is called the Agow or Agaw or Agew. You can see the photos on Alamy).

All these setbacks happened when I was visiting one particular region ( the eastern Highlands) but I remember it also happened one time during a previous trip in central Ethiopia. Wherever in the country, the "informers" were both men or women, illiterate villagers or educated civil servants, young or old. So while travelling in Ethiopia, who can you trust ? Nobody, even your own guide...

Has anyone of you already experienced such difficulties in Ethiopia, Africa or elsewhere ?

[NYCat]

I am so sorry you had those problems in Africa. Your photos are beautiful. I have only traveled to Kenya and Namibia to photograph wildlife. I have been very "protected" in a group and only the usual places so everyone has been lovely and welcoming. We were told that the people don't like to be treated like wildlife and we would need permission to photograph people and should tip them. Negotiations were made to pay a fee in Masai and Samburu villages. It sounds like that was not your problem. I suspect the "officials" were looking for a bribe. I appreciate the opportunity you have given us to see those special people. Thank you.

 

Paulette

[Jill Morgan]

I too only took the protected route in Kenya and Tanzania. When in Nairobi and Arusha, we were told not to photograph any police or military or they may take your camera gear and punish your driver. Same as Paulette, we were told it was customary to pay to take photos of the locals. Probably their best income.

 

Jill

[Chuck Nacke]

Never worked in Africa, but have had some interesting experiences in the "old Soviet Union."

Central Asia was always interesting and the bribes were small.  I am sure they have increased....

[TokyoM1ke]

I remember my guide in Peru telling me not to tip too much or it distorts the local economy too much... 

[Ed Rooney]

Did he point out that he was an exception to this tipping rule, Mike? 

 

The Cuna Indians on the San Blas Islands of Panama used to charge .25 cent a click.

[TokyoM1ke]

Did he point out that he was an exception to this tipping rule, Mike? 

Hmmm... He was a she but it's funny you ask that... mind you, she was from Lima, not a local indian, so the exception was quite clear.

[John Mitchell]

 

The Cuna Indians on the San Blas Islands of Panama used to charge .25 cent a click.

 

It's at least a buck a click now, and they probably take credit cards.

[Travelshots]

I used to be able to give them a polariod   White man's magic ! Peter

[John Mitchell]

I haven't had any serious difficulties during my travels in Latin America, but the Maya of southern Mexico and Guatemala come to mind as people who are pretty sick of being photographed. The Mayan village of Chamula in Chiapas -- which I've visited a couple of times -- is infamous in this regard. There have been numerous fairly serious incidents in and around Chamula -- cameras confiscated, tussles, etc. All this is understandable. No one likes being treated like a colourful or exotic object. The camera has totally changed the nature of travel, and perhaps not for the better. Actually, travel in general ain't what it used to be, for a lot of reasons. 

[Dyn Llun]

Did he point out that he was an exception to this tipping rule, Mike? 

 

The Cuna Indians on the San Blas Islands of Panama used to charge .25 cent a click.

I was photographing way over in the west of Ireland many years ago and came across a young lad very shabbily dressed with a donkey. He, (the lad) had a cardboard sign hanging around around his neck on a piece of old baler twine which said 'donkey rides 2/6 (pre decimal, I'm not going to explain!), photos 1s.'

[tarsierspectral]

Ethiopia is soo overrun by tourists that yes everyone expects a payment for not just a photo but just for being a white man these days.  I saw people throwing stones at tourist cars.  Everyone asks for a Birr.  What seems to have worked for me was turning things into a joke and every time someone asked me for a Birr I would do exactly the same and stick my hand out and ask for a Birr too.  They would either burst laughing or get confused.  Anyway the worse place to photograph for me was DRC, specifically in Kinshasa.  I couldn't even photograph things (not people) through the window of the car.  I had people run up to the car and cover my windows with their hands so I couldn't take a photo.  So, most of my shots are from a moving vehicle!!

[Sam Pollitt]

It's something you will have to get used to when photographing in Africa unfortunately. People will ask for money in many countries just because you are white, taking photos of them gives them a reason to ask for money and in some cases intimidate you. The best thing to do is smile, tell them you will delete the photos and just walk away. Once they realise you aren't intimidated and won't be handing over any money, they couldn't care less about the photos you have just taken. 

[Martin P Wilson]

...

 

On the other hand... its an extra cost... and in the "do as you would be done by" context... living in the centre of Amsterda means I have my photo taken by tourists all the time... Hold on! Potential goldmine!

Never imagined you as a colourful local character but I appreciate there are plenty of them in Amsterdam. Is the roller-blading, older guy wearing nothing but a posing pouch still on the streets?

[ernest]

Jeff,

 

"embroiled" was not the proper word ( I'm not a native english speaker so...). Except one time, I was not arguing with local people. Some local people who were on my side did it, not me. The other times, I was reported to the police. Whether they went directly to the police or they first met me, asking directly "Show me your ID" and then going to the police as I refused to show it and left them.

 

An Indian thinker said what you say, what you say when you talk about someone else speaks volumes about yourself, not about the person you are talking about. ( The thinker is Jiddu Krishnamurti.) I think this is right. This is right when you say something, but also when you do something. These problems happened not because of me but because of the local people. Well OK its because of me AND the local people. Both. Anywhere else I had never seen such behaviours, when local people report you to the police only because you are a visitor and you are taking photos.( Except one time many years ago when I was in the eastern part of Pakistan near the Indian border. But it was a time when tensions were high between the two countries,... and the feelings of paranoia were high also.)

I think the Ethiopian problems are due to the survival of tribal culture. In the past, tribespeople lived on their own territory where people belonging to other tribes were not allowed or had to prove who they were, why they were there. Traditionally minded people still behave this way. Because local people don't know english and I don't know any Ethiopian languages, the "best" way to answer these questions is to report to the police. Another reason is fear of thieves, spying also ( yes yes it seems ridiculous but yes !). Also foolishness and lack of openness to the modern world. They are not accustomed to see foreigners, especially foreigners who take photos so they are suspicious. These are three reasons to explain the difficulties I faced. Another reason could have been racism ( not in such cases). In black Africa, some persons don't like white people because of the color of their skin. It is a fact.

To conclude, most of the incidents happened in the same region, the region that was hit by the famine in 1984-1985. The famine was due to drought ( The Agow people I was talking in the first post have left their villages for the same reason. Drought is prevalent in this part of the country.) and also lack of political will to help the affected persons. Because the people of this region were fighting the central power, they were the most vindictive among all the Ethiopians. When you read guidebooks, the local people of this region are called "independent". You think " this is very nice, they are independent, they are free". It means also they want to rule their territory their own way, they want to control anything happens on their territory.

[spacecadet]

Knowing what you know I wonder why you chose to go to a place full of foolish xenophobic racists.

[John Mitchell]

Jeff,

 

"embroiled" was not the proper word ( I'm not a native english speaker so...). Except one time, I was not arguing with local people. Some local people who were on my side did it, not me. The other times, I was reported to the police. Whether they went directly to the police or they first met me, asking directly "Show me your ID" and then going to the police as I refused to show it and left them.

 

An Indian thinker said what you say, what you say when you talk about someone else speaks volumes about yourself, not about the person you are talking about. ( The thinker is Jiddu Krishnamurti.) I think this is right. This is right when you say something, but also when you do something. These problems happened not because of me but because of the local people. Well OK its because of me AND the local people. Both. Anywhere else I had never seen such behaviours, when local people report you to the police only because you are a visitor and you are taking photos.( Except one time many years ago when I was in the eastern part of Pakistan near the Indian border. But it was a time when tensions were high between the two countries,... and the feelings of paranoia were high also.)

I think the Ethiopian problems are due to the survival of tribal culture. In the past, tribespeople lived on their own territory where people belonging to other tribes were not allowed or had to prove who they were, why they were there. Traditionally minded people still behave this way. Because local people don't know english and I don't know any Ethiopian languages, the "best" way to answer these questions is to report to the police. Another reason is fear of thieves, spying also ( yes yes it seems ridiculous but yes !). Also foolishness and lack of openness to the modern world. They are not accustomed to see foreigners, especially foreigners who take photos so they are suspicious. These are three reasons to explain the difficulties I faced. Another reason could have been racism ( not in such cases). In black Africa, some persons don't like white people because of the color of their skin. It is a fact.

To conclude, most of the incidents happened in the same region, the region that was hit by the famine in 1984-1985. The famine was due to drought ( The Agow people I was talking in the first post have left their villages for the same reason. Drought is prevalent in this part of the country.) and also lack of political will to help the affected persons. Because the people of this region were fighting the central power, they were the most vindictive among all the Ethiopians. When you read guidebooks, the local people of this region are called "independent". You think " this is very nice, they are independent, they are free". It means also they want to rule their territory their own way, they want to control anything happens on their territory.

 

I've not been to Ethiopia, but perhaps these people have good reason to be suspicious of white people. As far as tribalism goes, things haven't really changed very much, nationalism in the modern world is just a glorified form of tribalism and still one of the main causes of war. That was one of J. Krishnamurti's themes as well.