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I am not sure if I posted this before, my first 10,000 exposures with my X-T1

http://markbaigent.co.uk/cms/fuji-xt1-10000/

 

Yes you did post that link earlier Mark but thanks for the reminder and I am sure it will be of use to others who have not seen it.

 

Allan

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Allan, I am waiting for the X-T2 before I buy another body. By then I will have sold my Canon kit and should have the cash - but first I want to see how fast the AF is with forthcoming f2.8 zooms. I also need to see how my new start up photography business is going. Any new spend has to be justified in terms of income creation.

 

Martin from what I have read on the forums it appears that a New X-T2 or X-T1b has been put on the back burner for now. :(   Maybe Fuji are concentrating on bringing out a MF camera. ;)

 

Allan

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Yes I did see it Mark and it was one of the reviews that tipped me towards the X-T1.

 

Loving it so far.

+ 1 on that! And I really like the tip about setting up the function buttons for AF control…Makes life so much easier whilst out and about.  ;)

 

Are you(Mark) using LR to process the RAF files? If so any tips on settings?  -_-

 

Phil

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Phil I do use LR for the raw files, I am trying Allan's setting at the moment and they seem to be working well.

 

This is where Allan rides in and points you at his post :-)
(I really like the standard negative setting under film types

 

Ah, found them...

 

My settings in LR for sharpness and noise which have, so far, worked for me.

 

Sharpness  Amount 78

                   Radius  1.0

                   Detail    10

                   Masking 25

 

Noise reduction Luminance  0 (so detail and smoothness are greyed out)

                          Colour 25

                          Detail 50

                         Smoothness 50

        

Allan

.

Edited by Mark Baigent
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Phil I do use LR for the raw files, I am trying Allan's setting at the moment and they seem to be working well.

 

This is where Allan rides in and points you at his post :-)

(I really like the standard negative setting under film types

 

Ah, found them...

 

 

My settings in LR for sharpness and noise which have, so far, worked for me.

 

Sharpness  Amount 78

                   Radius  1.0

                   Detail    10

                   Masking 25

 

Noise reduction Luminance  0 (so detail and smoothness are greyed out)

                          Colour 25

                          Detail 50

                         Smoothness 50

        

Allan

.

Thanks Mark…I'll play with that and see how I get on.  ;)

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Phil I do use LR for the raw files, I am trying Allan's setting at the moment and they seem to be working well.

 

This is where Allan rides in and points you at his post :-)

(I really like the standard negative setting under film types

 

Ah, found them...

 

 

My settings in LR for sharpness and noise which have, so far, worked for me.

 

Sharpness  Amount 78

                   Radius  1.0

                   Detail    10

                   Masking 25

 

Noise reduction Luminance  0 (so detail and smoothness are greyed out)

                          Colour 25

                          Detail 50

                         Smoothness 50

        

Allan

.

 

Thanks for pointing Phil to my technique. I am going to try some further modifications myself soon and will let you know the results.

 

Allan

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Allan. I saw an interview with a Fuji guy that said their efforts were currently  going into an Xpro 2.

He also ruled out FF.

 

Yes I saw that too. Was just trying a little friendly windup with Martin in my earlier comment. :)

 

Allan

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Allan. I saw an interview with a Fuji guy that said their efforts were currently  going into an Xpro 2.

He also ruled out FF.

 

Yes I saw that too. Was just trying a little friendly windup with Martin in my earlier comment. :)

 

Allan

 

 

I took it in that spirit and anyway I am prepared to wait as I suspect the X-T2 (or whatever it is called) will follow in reasonably short order after the X-Pro2. My photographic income (what income?) does not justify spending any more  money on another camera body. That said I could justify spending on genuinely fast AF zoom (50-140mm and 140-400mm?) as I could then sell my Canon kit to pay for it!

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Phil I do use LR for the raw files, I am trying Allan's setting at the moment and they seem to be working well.

 

This is where Allan rides in and points you at his post :-)

(I really like the standard negative setting under film types

 

Ah, found them...

 

 

My settings in LR for sharpness and noise which have, so far, worked for me.

 

Sharpness  Amount 78

                   Radius  1.0

                   Detail    10

                   Masking 25

 

Noise reduction Luminance  0 (so detail and smoothness are greyed out)

                          Colour 25

                          Detail 50

                         Smoothness 50

        

Allan

.

 

Thanks for pointing Phil to my technique. I am going to try some further modifications myself soon and will let you know the results.

 

Allan

 

Where did you mention these settings Allan?  If you don't mind me saying so I am really surprised you feel the need for such a high sharpness setting.  I leave mine at the default 25 and think the images look plenty sharp enough.  Am I missing something?

 

Pearl

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Phil I do use LR for the raw files, I am trying Allan's setting at the moment and they seem to be working well.

 

This is where Allan rides in and points you at his post :-)

(I really like the standard negative setting under film types

 

Ah, found them...

 

 

My settings in LR for sharpness and noise which have, so far, worked for me.

 

Sharpness  Amount 78

                   Radius  1.0

                   Detail    10

                   Masking 25

 

Noise reduction Luminance  0 (so detail and smoothness are greyed out)

                          Colour 25

                          Detail 50

                         Smoothness 50

        

Allan

.

 

Thanks for pointing Phil to my technique. I am going to try some further modifications myself soon and will let you know the results.

 

Allan

 

Where did you mention these settings Allan?  If you don't mind me saying so I am really surprised you feel the need for such a high sharpness setting.  I leave mine at the default 25 and think the images look plenty sharp enough.  Am I missing something?

 

Pearl

 

 

Can't remember which thread it was now Pearl. I find anything lower is too soft and to back it up I have had a fail or two for that reason when when the setting was lower.

 

As I said I am going to carry out some more trials soon and will let you know the outcome.

 

Allan

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I decided to go for an X-T1 and it was delivered today with the 18-135 kit lens and the 56 f1.2 and also decided to get the battery pack for uprights. Very pleased so far with the only downside the fact I can't shoot multiple flashes in CH mode so no real use for red carpets. I'll sell one of my D700 bodies but will hang on to the other for these events.

 

I've been shooting off camera flash using PW Plus II triggers and the results from the 56 are stunning. I've also managed to set up the wi-fi remote controlling the camera from my Android phone.

 

Main reason for going mirrorless was to get rid of the DSLR weight so I'll probably get another X-T1 body and prime with the proceeds from the Nikon gear.

 

That 56mm lens is really good, possibly their best lens!..... the 23mm comes very close though, just as sharp... a beautiful lens as well. Until about a month ago I had the 14mm prime but traded it for the 10-24mm. That is also another gem... it seemed to outperform the 14mm at the edges when at 14mm.... very good zoom. 

 

 

Strange you should mention the 10-24 and 14mm lenses. I had to send my 10-24 away to have it readjusted as it was showing excessive OOF down both sides of the image and worst on the right side encroaching into the image by as much as 20% of width. Particularly bad at 10mm, which is what I wanted it for. It came back a couple of days ago and after a quick trial it seems much better now but still a bit of OOF at 10mm. I also have the 14mm prime and after some recent trials find it to be superior to the 10-24 at 14mm. I will keep both lenses for now and see how things pan out.

 

After buying the 18-135 as a walkabout lens I am wondering if I have made a mistake putting the 18-55 in in PX for it. I find I am not too happy with the IQ from it either.

 

The above is the reason I recently purchased the 14mm, 23mm, and 56mm lenses. I already have the 35mm prime. Buying those lenses three together netted me a £500 refund. :)

 

I am considering whether to buy the Sony RX10 as a walkabout camera and ditch the 18-135 fuji lens. What do you good folk think?

 

Allan

 

Hello, when I wrote the last sentence I entered RX100 by mistake. Have now altered it to RX10 which is what I meant to say.

 

Allan

 

 

Sorry for the delay Allan.

 

I also ditched the 18-135. I found I couldn't trust the level of IQ. It was ok for close up stuff but add a bit of distance and it seemed a little poor at times. I traded it in, along with my X-Pro1 and 14mm lens for a 2nd T1 & 10-24. Now I have the wide zoom on one and the 55-200 on the other. This captures most things I want when on walk about. Studio = 23, 56 or 60mm.

 

It sounds like you may not have the best copy of the 10-24. If it isn't 100% perfect, get it back to them and/or push for a replacement. I've found mine to be more than acceptable at 10mm (and I'm really picky) and although it is softer on the final third, it could easily be corrected. I use a mask that only sharpens the outer edges while leaving the centre so it balances it out. At 14mm it is really good. 23mm is also very good but no match for the 23mm.... but, it is a zoom and is possibly the best zoom I've had of that range (inc Canon lenses).

 

In terms of weather proofing, I just use a cut down freezer bag with 2 rubber bands on the lens. I've been out in heavy rain with that setup without any problems. 

Edited by Duncan_Andison
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Thank you for the information Duncan. I am still trying with the 18-135 at the moment and adjusting capture sharpness in LR mainly because I like the range of the lens.

 

I know you use C1 for processing which, unfortunately, I cannot get on with so am using LR. would you know how to make a sharpness mask in LR as you do in C1?

 

Thank you.

 

Allan

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My copy of the 18-135 is great . I find it sharp at all lengths. I use it for food, I use it for my light tent, and zoom it or not for landscapes. i.e. like wide shots of storefronts, malls and such.

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Thank you for the information Duncan. I am still trying with the 18-135 at the moment and adjusting capture sharpness in LR mainly because I like the range of the lens.

 

I know you use C1 for processing which, unfortunately, I cannot get on with so am using LR. would you know how to make a sharpness mask in LR as you do in C1?

 

Thank you.

 

Allan

 

Not sure about LR but in PS you could duplicate the image layer, sharpen it and then use a mask to hide the centre part of that image, revealing the main image underneath. This main image could have a sharpening applied all over so that the centre part is adequately sharp and then you apply X amount of sharpening to the layer so the sides look better.

 

This is basically what I do in CS1 and works nicely. Just use a very soft/large air brush when building the mask and it will create a nice graduated effect.

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My copy of the 18-135 is great . I find it sharp at all lengths. I use it for food, I use it for my light tent, and zoom it or not for landscapes. i.e. like wide shots of storefronts, malls and such.

 

Sorry Betty, I didn't mean the longer focal lengths, I meant the distance the subject was from the camera. It seems to resolve ok for short to mid distance but for long distance, landscapes etc it seemed to lose a lot of detail an go soft and mushy. When compared to the 55-200 I have, it lacked clear detail from 100mm upwards.

 

When I shot close up stuff it was ok...... just had zero confidence at long range unfortunately.

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Thank you for the information Duncan. I am still trying with the 18-135 at the moment and adjusting capture sharpness in LR mainly because I like the range of the lens.

 

I know you use C1 for processing which, unfortunately, I cannot get on with so am using LR. would you know how to make a sharpness mask in LR as you do in C1?

 

Thank you.

 

Allan

Allan, I haven't actually tried this but, in LR, could you use the Adjustment brush set on Sharpness then go over the outer edges that you think are too unsharp?

 

Pearl

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Thank you for the information Duncan. I am still trying with the 18-135 at the moment and adjusting capture sharpness in LR mainly because I like the range of the lens.

 

I know you use C1 for processing which, unfortunately, I cannot get on with so am using LR. would you know how to make a sharpness mask in LR as you do in C1?

 

Thank you.

 

Allan

 

Not sure about LR but in PS you could duplicate the image layer, sharpen it and then use a mask to hide the centre part of that image, revealing the main image underneath. This main image could have a sharpening applied all over so that the centre part is adequately sharp and then you apply X amount of sharpening to the layer so the sides look better.

 

This is basically what I do in CS1 and works nicely. Just use a very soft/large air brush when building the mask and it will create a nice graduated effect.

 

 

Thank you for imparting that information Duncan.  I have found a way to do it LR after all. Use the graduated filter set to sharpen and drag it in from each corner sufficient to work on the OOF in the corners.

 

Thank again as I may use your idea when necessary.

 

Allan

 

 

 

Thank you for the information Duncan. I am still trying with the 18-135 at the moment and adjusting capture sharpness in LR mainly because I like the range of the lens.

 

I know you use C1 for processing which, unfortunately, I cannot get on with so am using LR. would you know how to make a sharpness mask in LR as you do in C1?

 

Thank you.

 

Allan

Allan, I haven't actually tried this but, in LR, could you use the Adjustment brush set on Sharpness then go over the outer edges that you think are too unsharp?

 

Pearl

 

 

 

Thank Pearl, another good idea. :)

 

Allan

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My copy of the 18-135 is great . I find it sharp at all lengths. I use it for food, I use it for my light tent, and zoom it or not for landscapes. i.e. like wide shots of storefronts, malls and such.

 

Betty you must have the best 18 - 135 on the planet. Hang on to it. :)

 

Allan

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I will hang onto it.

This month Popular Photography rated this lens over the similar lenses from Pentax, Nikon and Canon. Least amount of distortion, light fall off.  The Fujifilm beat out the competition at 135 and was on par at the other tested focal lengths, scoring Excellent at all tested focal lengths, 18, 70 and 135.  Best at image stabilization.  Nikon was 2nd on the latter.

 

I have no quarrel with that, because mine performs just as it is supposed to.

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I am on my second 18-135mm (an insurance job, I dropped the first and it was replaced rather than repaired by Fuji) and am entirely satisfied with the results of both but I do tend to have to use CA/purple fringing correction as the default when converting raw. I have had no problems with QC from either lens; and I do the minimum of post -production - no sophisticated sharpening layers etc, just the Capture 1 Pro default with a tiny bit of Clarity/Structure after any fine tuning of exposure etc.

 

So it seems there might have been 3 good ones (now just 2!) :)

Edited by Martin P Wilson
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I am very happy with the sharpness of mine and have had no QC failures but I do struggle a bit to clear the CA.  I need to do a bit of experimenting with and without a filter and maybe some different settings for CA in LR.  It is such a useful focal length I would be loath to part with it.

 

Pearl

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