RX100

[Liam Bunce]

Hi all

 

I recently purchased the RX100 as its reviews were very favorable, and there was quite a few posts about it here. having now been out with it and taken a few trial images when viewed at 100% i have found them to be quite grainy, as the user guide is very limited i am not sure of the settings amd the images taken were on auto iso was 150, aspect ratio 3:2, file format AVCHD, image size L:17M.

I have been onto amazon and a full guide is on its way but can anyone advise in the meantime.

 

Liam   

[spacecadet]

AVCHD is an HD video format so don't worry about that.

No modern sensor should show noise at 150ISO- are you sure about the setting?

[Paul Mayall]

Liam,

 

I use the same settings as you with ISO 200, aperture 6.3 my images at 100% show a little grain but nothing bad enough to fail QC.

 

Is there a chance of posting a image here at 100% to give the owners of the RX100 the chance to see if you really do have a problem.

 

I personally find the camera a great carry around with no QC failures from more than 200 images.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Paul.

[Liam Bunce]

This is an image take iso 120 f/1.8 and 1/60sec

[spacecadet]

Can't see that.

Upload the image to a host, copy the URL, then click on the picture icon on the 'reply' toolbar her and paste it in.

[Liam Bunce]

I think I got it this time.

[Gervais Montacute]

Hi Liam. I have a Sony RX100 II and must say I love it because it's so easy to carry around. The images can get noisy I find. I'm not so sure at ISO 150 though. The last dozen or so of my images were taken with the RX100 II at quite high ISO and some noise reduction was applied in Lightroom 5.

 

The cafe seating was around and over ISO 800 for example.

[Liam Bunce]

  This is an image take iso 120 f/1.8 and 1/60sec

[spacecadet]

That's still a thumbnail.

[Liam Bunce]

I give up.

[Allan Bell]

Apparently image quality is better from the original RX100 than those from the mkII.

 

Allan

[John Walker]

Apparently image quality is better from the original RX100 than those from the mkII.

 

Allan

 

I find the image quality of my RX100 excellent.  The only item on the MK2 that I would have liked on my MK1 is the tiltable screen.

 

John

[AndyMelbourne]

Arrrrrrrgh............I have the money burning a hole in my pocket for a RX100 (mark 2 for the hot shoe in order to trigger studio flash) and then I see negative reports such as 'grain' at 200 and 'softness'. What should one do?

Several years ago I read the hype and purchased a Canon G9 and (for me) it was unusable. Really concerned as to not get my fingers burned again.

 

Andy

[Allan Bell]

Arrrrrrrgh............I have the money burning a hole in my pocket for a RX100 (mark 2 for the hot shoe in order to trigger studio flash) and then I see negative reports such as 'grain' at 200 and 'softness'. What should one do?

Several years ago I read the hype and purchased a Canon G9 and (for me) it was unusable. Really concerned as to not get my fingers burned again.

 

Andy

 

Andy can't you arrange for the pop up flash on the mk1 to trigger the studio flash?

 

RX100 is still available and I regularly shoot at 400, 800 and even 1600 on mine. No rejects yet.

 

Allan

[AndyMelbourne]

 

Arrrrrrrgh............I have the money burning a hole in my pocket for a RX100 (mark 2 for the hot shoe in order to trigger studio flash) and then I see negative reports such as 'grain' at 200 and 'softness'. What should one do?

Several years ago I read the hype and purchased a Canon G9 and (for me) it was unusable. Really concerned as to not get my fingers burned again.

 

Andy

 

Andy can't you arrange for the pop up flash on the mk1 to trigger the studio flash?

 

RX100 is still available and I regularly shoot at 400, 800 and even 1600 on mine. No rejects yet.

 

Allan

 

I have read elsewhere on the forum that the pop up sends out a pre flash that cannot be switched off. Although I use a D3 for studio my back up (fuji S5) is no longer available so the idea is that I have an emergency back up when on location studio shoots, it may never required but you can never say never.

 

Andy

[wiskerke]

Arrrrrrrgh............I have the money burning a hole in my pocket for a RX100 (mark 2 for the hot shoe in order to trigger studio flash) and then I see negative reports such as 'grain' at 200 and 'softness'. What should one do?

Several years ago I read the hype and purchased a Canon G9 and (for me) it was unusable. Really concerned as to not get my fingers burned again.

 

Andy

 

Andy,

 

what camera body is your reference point?

And why studio flash? It's a camera to have at hand when you do not have a real camera with you. (Size; weight.)

Or when the use of a real camera is physically impossible. (Size; weight.)

Or socially difficult. (Obtrusiveness.)

 

The RX has a Sony sensor, but it's not the one that's in a d800 or A7R, with it's capabilities of bringing back detail in the shadows. So when there is some lifting of the shadows going on, there will be grain. Remember what lifting of the shadows is: amplification of a signal.

 

Work in post for the RX100 images is 3 to 4 times the work I do for images from a Canon 1ds mk3. So more time in general; blending more exposures etc. Mind you for the same subjects, which of course is dumb, because: horses for courses. I should use the RX for what it's made for, not as a pro camera that has magically shrunk.

It's a lovely little camera and I use it more then I should.

 

wim

[AndyMelbourne]

 

Arrrrrrrgh............I have the money burning a hole in my pocket for a RX100 (mark 2 for the hot shoe in order to trigger studio flash) and then I see negative reports such as 'grain' at 200 and 'softness'. What should one do?

Several years ago I read the hype and purchased a Canon G9 and (for me) it was unusable. Really concerned as to not get my fingers burned again.

 

Andy

 

Andy,

 

what camera body is your reference point?

And why studio flash? It's a camera to have at hand when you do not have a real camera with you. (Size; weight.)

Or when the use of a real camera is physically impossible. (Size; weight.)

Or socially difficult. (Obtrusiveness.)

 

The RX has a Sony sensor, but it's not the one that's in a d800 or A7R, with it's capabilities of bringing back detail in the shadows. So when there is some lifting of the shadows going on, there will be grain. Remember what lifting of the shadows is: amplification of a signal.

 

Work in post for the RX100 images is 3 to 4 times the work I do for images from a Canon 1ds mk3. So more time in general; blending more exposures etc. Mind you for the same subjects, which of course is dumb, because: horses for courses. I should use the RX for what it's made for, not as a pro camera that has magically shrunk.

It's a lovely little camera and I use it more then I should.

 

wim

 

The bulk of my professional work is photographing pre-schools and playgroups along with some Karate and Judo clubs with which I use four Bowens units and very happy using my D3 and mostly a 105 F2 DC lens which is perfect for my needs. However, my S5 backup has gone out to a relative on a long term loan and therefore I have no backup (yes, I know I'm stupid), and the mark 2 would do the job if push came to shove or if my camera died half way through a job. Also 'some' table top shots with a flash trigger for the odd dust free stock shot. Dust is a serious pain with the D3 and I clean my sensor at least once a week.

 

The RX100 would be used only for walkabout stock shots, which I don't take too seriously, in random situations where I can take it out of my pocket and shoot. I will still use the Nikon when doing serious travelling. The Sony is not meant to be a replacement.

 

The need for studio triggering may never happen but......

 

My concern is spending the dosh and getting a duff (soft or grainy) camera.

 

There seem to be quite a few people on this forum that are finding the RX100 (either version) to have issues, and that includes the highly respected David K.

 

 

Hope that makes sense

 

Andy

[wiskerke]

The RX100 is only 4.9 at the long end. And the 100mm equivalent feels slightly shorter than 100mm too. It's quite a bit slower than a regular slr: I would not use it for sports. I have the #1 and it indeed does a preflash, but the time between the preflash and the flash is very short.

 

wim

[Allan Bell]

 

 

Arrrrrrrgh............I have the money burning a hole in my pocket for a RX100 (mark 2 for the hot shoe in order to trigger studio flash) and then I see negative reports such as 'grain' at 200 and 'softness'. What should one do?

Several years ago I read the hype and purchased a Canon G9 and (for me) it was unusable. Really concerned as to not get my fingers burned again.

 

Andy

 

Andy can't you arrange for the pop up flash on the mk1 to trigger the studio flash?

 

RX100 is still available and I regularly shoot at 400, 800 and even 1600 on mine. No rejects yet.

 

Allan

 

I have read elsewhere on the forum that the pop up sends out a pre flash that cannot be switched off. Although I use a D3 for studio my back up (fuji S5) is no longer available so the idea is that I have an emergency back up when on location studio shoots, it may never required but you can never say never.

 

Andy

 

 

Andy the pre-flash can be turned off, on my model at least. Following is how it is done.

1. Go into menu, under number 4 in the first part (camera/exposure settings) switch OFF AFIlluminator.
2. Move to gear wheel number 1 switch OFF Red Eye Reduction.

That is all I had to do just now.

 

Hope this may be of help to others who may have taken it as gospel that pre-flash cannot be turned off.

 

Allan

[AndyMelbourne]

The RX100 is only 4.9 at the long end. And the 100mm equivalent feels slightly shorter than 100mm too. It's quite a bit slower than a regular slr: I would not use it for sports. I have the #1 and it indeed does a preflash, but the time between the preflash and the flash is very short.

 

wim

I would not use it for sport neither, that's what the D3 excels at.

 

Andy

[AndyMelbourne]

 

 

 

Arrrrrrrgh............I have the money burning a hole in my pocket for a RX100 (mark 2 for the hot shoe in order to trigger studio flash) and then I see negative reports such as 'grain' at 200 and 'softness'. What should one do?

Several years ago I read the hype and purchased a Canon G9 and (for me) it was unusable. Really concerned as to not get my fingers burned again.

 

Andy

 

Andy can't you arrange for the pop up flash on the mk1 to trigger the studio flash?

 

RX100 is still available and I regularly shoot at 400, 800 and even 1600 on mine. No rejects yet.

 

Allan

 

I have read elsewhere on the forum that the pop up sends out a pre flash that cannot be switched off. Although I use a D3 for studio my back up (fuji S5) is no longer available so the idea is that I have an emergency back up when on location studio shoots, it may never required but you can never say never.

 

Andy

 

 

Andy the pre-flash can be turned off, on my model at least. Following is how it is done.

1. Go into menu, under number 4 in the first part (camera/exposure settings) switch OFF AFIlluminator.
2. Move to gear wheel number 1 switch OFF Red Eye Reduction.

That is all I had to do just now.

 

Hope this may be of help to others who may have taken it as gospel that pre-flash cannot be turned off.

 

Allan

 

Thanks for that Allen, I will look into it. The hotshoe for me would have been the only Mk2 advantage over the Mk1

 

Andy

[wiskerke]

 

 

 

Arrrrrrrgh............I have the money burning a hole in my pocket for a RX100 (mark 2 for the hot shoe in order to trigger studio flash) and then I see negative reports such as 'grain' at 200 and 'softness'. What should one do?

Several years ago I read the hype and purchased a Canon G9 and (for me) it was unusable. Really concerned as to not get my fingers burned again.

 

Andy

 

Andy can't you arrange for the pop up flash on the mk1 to trigger the studio flash?

 

RX100 is still available and I regularly shoot at 400, 800 and even 1600 on mine. No rejects yet.

 

Allan

 

I have read elsewhere on the forum that the pop up sends out a pre flash that cannot be switched off. Although I use a D3 for studio my back up (fuji S5) is no longer available so the idea is that I have an emergency back up when on location studio shoots, it may never required but you can never say never.

 

Andy

 

 

Andy the pre-flash can be turned off, on my model at least. Following is how it is done.

1. Go into menu, under number 4 in the first part (camera/exposure settings) switch OFF AFIlluminator.
2. Move to gear wheel number 1 switch OFF Red Eye Reduction.

That is all I had to do just now.

 

Hope this may be of help to others who may have taken it as gospel that pre-flash cannot be turned off.

 

Allan

 

 

I have (and usually leave) all that turned off. But I'm pretty sure I can see a preflash going on by looking at the flash when doing a selfie.

I will do some testing if I can get one of my old Bowens and a remote slave working.

 

wim

[AndyMelbourne]

Looking forward to your conclusion on that.

Thanks

[wiskerke]

It just doesn't work. It took me some experimenting before I could actually see the preflash. In Manual set a long shutter speed; select rear curtain for the flash; point at self and it's immediately clear though. As I said before, in normal operation it is very hard to see. Before that I did get the Bowens out. Of course nothing came of it. Theoretically one could use a device to delay the strobe setting off, assuming the delay is the same for regular flash in one given mode (A or M). Ah, looking around the interwebs, that's totally unnecessary: the trick is to count the pulses. That's much more simple and works regardless of the delay: http://dptnt.com/2010/03/smart-optical-slave-flash-trigger/

Sunpak used to have a slave that probably operated like that: the SYK-5 it's still available on Amazon. If you would have an Elinchrom D-Lite, you could set the strobe to ignore the preflash. Or you could go the David Hobby/Joe McNally route and use speedlites. Yongnuo and Metz have a setting to ignore preflash.

 

I have looked into the disabling of the preflash for the RX100 as well and have found nothing so far.

 

It is a simple camera after all. Some have suggested that it's customary for Sony to offer a basic version first and later trick it out so you will buy the upgrade. What I miss most in the #1 is some way of tethering or remote. And I must say the mk2 does this with a vengeance: with wifi and NFC.

 

Before the RX100 I have experimented with a NEX-3, which was even cheaper at Euro 200 including a 16mm and it could take the dozens of lenses I have with a handful of adapters. (I used it mainly with that 16mm.) There are two hotshoes by Fotasy now to allow coupling a regular remote or flash to a NEX. The old NEX-3 is only 14 megapixel, but the firmware got an upgrade at some point which even allowed peaking. So if size and weight is not as critical, then a Nex could fit your brief as well. (A 16 Mp Nex 5 with a 16-50mm would of course be even better, and still a small package.)

 

wim

[AndyMelbourne]

It just doesn't work. It took me some experimenting before I could actually see the preflash. In Manual set a long shutter speed; select rear curtain for the flash; point at self and it's immediately clear though. As I said before, in normal operation it is very hard to see. Before that I did get the Bowens out. Of course nothing came of it. Theoretically one could use a device to delay the strobe setting off, assuming the delay is the same for regular flash in one given mode (A or M). Ah, looking around the interwebs, that's totally unnecessary: the trick is to count the pulses. That's much more simple and works regardless of the delay: http://dptnt.com/2010/03/smart-optical-slave-flash-trigger/

Sunpak used to have a slave that probably operated like that: the SYK-5 it's still available on Amazon. If you would have an Elinchrom D-Lite, you could set the strobe to ignore the preflash. Or you could go the David Hobby/Joe McNally route and use speedlites. Yongnuo and Metz have a setting to ignore preflash.

 

I have looked into the disabling of the preflash for the RX100 as well and have found nothing so far.

 

It is a simple camera after all. Some have suggested that it's customary for Sony to offer a basic version first and later trick it out so you will buy the upgrade. What I miss most in the #1 is some way of tethering or remote. And I must say the mk2 does this with a vengeance: with wifi and NFC.

 

Before the RX100 I have experimented with a NEX-3, which was even cheaper at Euro 200 including a 16mm and it could take the dozens of lenses I have with a handful of adapters. (I used it mainly with that 16mm.) There are two hotshoes by Fotasy now to allow coupling a regular remote or flash to a NEX. The old NEX-3 is only 14 megapixel, but the firmware got an upgrade at some point which even allowed peaking. So if size and weight is not as critical, then a Nex could fit your brief as well. (A 16 Mp Nex 5 with a 16-50mm would of course be even better, and still a small package.)

 

wim

Thanks for that Wim, pretty much as I have read on a few forums but it's nice that you can actually confirm it.

After much deliberation I think it is going to have to be the MK2 after all for this very reason. Even if I never use the hotshoe, I just hope I get a good one.

I don't fancy the idea of going down the flash delay gadget route.

As for the Nex, the whole point is to have a small, sealed dust free camera that I can take an image, do a quick contrast/brightness on PS etc and upload without dust spotting.

The other options have been the G1X which is a bit too bulky for what I want, or, if I can live with the smaller sensor, the LX7 which is considerably cheaper and ticks a lot of boxes. With those in mind I think it is going to have to be the RX100 MK2

If all goes quiet it's because I have just told the wife how much.

 

Thanks again for your valued input.

Andy

 

P.S. Sorry Liam for Hi-jacking your thread.