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4 minutes ago, dunstun365 said:

Lincoln is realy good & worth visiting,  much bigger & the ppl. are better than boston which is pretty dead even before lockdown. 

 

I hope to be there sometime this summer when hotels and pubs are open. I've got my senior rail card ready and waiting.

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10 hours ago, spacecadet said:

Here you go

 

[...eBay link...]

 

enough for at least 9 sheets for a couple of quid. IIRC it needs to come down 4 or 5 stops at least. I have a few 3NDs but also used some opal drafting film.

I did find that I got vignetting from the light source on 6x6- I probably wasn't careful enough with the setup but it's fixable in LR. In case you go back to the way of the 'Tran.

 

 

Yes, funnily enough I found something similar myself after I'd posted. I'd decided by then that the Illumitran was probably a waste of time because I couldn't mange to get much more than half a 6x6 with either the 50mm or 75mm enlarging lenses, so I decided to abandon the idea and put it back in its cupboard. But then I had a sudden flash of inspiration. I took off the bellows, found a threaded screw that fitted the camera's tripod mounting through the screwhole that held the bellows, dug out my old Canon FD 50mm macro lens plus the FD->EOS adapter, and hey presto I had a perfect copy stand for 6x6. I just have to make up a slide mount to cut out any extraneous light from the flash and I'm in business.

 

Vignetting can be removed in Lightroom, yes, but I found that if there was any vignetting from the camera lens as well it could be quite tricky to get evenness of lighting across the whole tranny.

 

Alan

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15 hours ago, Inchiquin said:

 

Yes, funnily enough I found something similar myself after I'd posted. I'd decided by then that the Illumitran was probably a waste of time because I couldn't mange to get much more than half a 6x6 with either the 50mm or 75mm enlarging lenses, so I decided to abandon the idea and put it back in its cupboard. But then I had a sudden flash of inspiration. I took off the bellows, found a threaded screw that fitted the camera's tripod mounting through the screwhole that held the bellows, dug out my old Canon FD 50mm macro lens plus the FD->EOS adapter, and hey presto I had a perfect copy stand for 6x6. I just have to make up a slide mount to cut out any extraneous light from the flash and I'm in business.

 

Vignetting can be removed in Lightroom, yes, but I found that if there was any vignetting from the camera lens as well it could be quite tricky to get evenness of lighting across the whole tranny.

 

Alan

Yes, should have mentioned that I use  a kit 18-55, at 55, for 6x6 on the 'Tran. I had to get various length 1/4x20 bolts off ebay to get the right standoff distance from the rail.

I meant vignetting from the light source- shading, really, probably because of my Heath Robinson setup. Are you managing to get even lighting on 6x6 from the standard diffuser, because I don't, so I'd like to know what you're getting right- any chance of a pic of your setup?

I don't think I've had a sale from 6x6 yet, but there aren't many of them.

 

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22 hours ago, spacecadet said:

 

I meant vignetting from the light source- shading, really, probably because of my Heath Robinson setup.

 

 

Yes, I realised that. But if you get camera lens vignetting as well, the two may overlap, which is what I meant about getting evenness across the frame when you try to adjust for it.

 

22 hours ago, spacecadet said:

Are you managing to get even lighting on 6x6 from the standard diffuser, because I don't, so I'd like to know what you're getting right- any chance of a pic of your setup?

I don't think I've had a sale from 6x6 yet, but there aren't many of them.

 

 

Too early to say yet. Up until now I've only been getting partial slides in the frame so I can't tell whether there would be vignetting from the diffuser. When I've got myself fully set up with the ND filter and slide mount I'll report back.

 

Alan

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1 hour ago, Inchiquin said:

Up until now I've only been getting partial slides in the frame so I can't tell whether there would be vignetting from the diffuser

I believe that Bowens recommended that the lamp stage should be raised to the middle position for medium format to provide even illumination, that means that flash intensity at the optimum aperture range would need to be controlled with ND filters rather than by raising and lowering the stage. With the slow speed film that it was designed for you could have used the High flash intensity setting to compensate. The 'focus' light can also be used but they are mounted to the side whereas the flash tubes are central so it's difficult to predict the evenness that they will produce, easy to test for it though. You can get modern much brighter LED replacements for those bulbs quite cheaply.

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19 minutes ago, Harry Harrison said:

You can get modern much brighter LED replacements for those bulbs quite cheaply.

Having just found out one of mine is blown I've had a look. The brighter 16LED ones may be too wide for the fitting, as they are very close to the flashtube, but you can certainly fit in a 6LED, which would be about the same output as the 10W 36mm original.

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5 minutes ago, spacecadet said:

Having just found out one of mine is blown I've had a look. The brighter 16LED ones may be too wide for the fitting, as they are very close to the flashtube, but you can certainly fit in a 6LED, which would be about the same output as the 10W 36mm original.

There seem to be a very wide variety of fittings all generally described as LED Festoon Dome bulbs for interior or number plate lighting in cars, 35 - 38mm should fit OK I think. They generally don't seem to be from recognised manufacturers, the ones I quite like the look of are "Philips Ultinon LED Festoon DE3423" but they're only available in the USA for some reason. It's unlikely that they will have a high CRI rating even if it could be discovered as they don't need to in a car.

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5 minutes ago, Harry Harrison said:

There seem to be a very wide variety of fittings all generally described as LED Festoon Dome bulbs for interior or number plate lighting in cars, 35 - 38mm should fit OK I think. They generally don't seem to be from recognised manufacturers, the ones I quite like the look of are "Philips Ultinon LED Festoon DE3423" but they're only available in the USA for some reason. It's unlikely that they will have a high CRI rating even if it could be discovered as they don't need to in a car.

Well I suppose you don't need good colour rendering, just a nice bright image to focus on. We have LED strip in the kitchen and the colour is quite acceptable. I'd be perfectly happy with one of the no-name Chinese ones- the branded ones are made there anyway, probably just with better QC. It's not as if it's going to do something bad in a metal box as long as it's reasonably well heatsunk. We have two halogen replacement projector-bulb types in a standard lamp and it's great not to have to avoid touching the glass shades. They have dozens of LEDs on two tiny PCBs at right angles- they look like little space stations.

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4 minutes ago, spacecadet said:

Well I suppose you don't need good colour rendering

Some prefer to use the focus light for exposure so a CRI rating would have been nice but not essential even for that. Yes, cool running, bright white light, very good for focusing especially where NDs are concerned, though with Live View doesn't matter so much.

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1 minute ago, Harry Harrison said:

Some prefer to use the focus light for exposure so a CRI rating would have been nice but not essential even for that. Yes, cool running, bright white light, very good for focusing especially where NDs are concerned, though with Live View doesn't matter so much.

Hadn't thought of that- I only ever did it by accident!

Too much vibration for that on my setup.

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7 minutes ago, Harry Harrison said:

Doh! Sorry, if you're using the focus light for exposure you won't be using NDs, I should have engaged the brain before posting.

Actually I do, my "filter pack" is underneath the frame holder, so it's permanent. I found that the NDs needed to be further away from the slide holder to avoid getting dust spots in focus. It's no hardship because exposure is pretty well constant for a given batch of originals.

What was a hardship was focussing at f8 or 11 with a cheap enlarging lens that shifted focus on stop-down. I now have a better process lens with no shift, so I can focus wide open, like normal people.

Edited by spacecadet
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  • 4 weeks later...
On 07/06/2020 at 09:44, spacecadet said:

Pure gold in there!

I just love looking at the cars.

BTW Boston still looks like that.

 

Marks photo is what the pub looks like now

Edited by dunstun365
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  • 1 month later...

One of my old ones passed over until the 'back to film' thing started. Taken in 1990, used in 2020.

 

2BJNGWR

 

Rural life around the village of Spalding, Clarendon, Jamaica, West Indies in 1990

 

 

Country: Worldwide
Usage: Personal use, Personal prints, cards and gifts. Non-commercial use only, not for resale.
Media: Non-commercial, one time, personal/home use
Start: 20 August 2020
End: 20 August 2025

Edited by geogphotos
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