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Bidding on eBay advice


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John,

I don't use 'sniper' tools, but I put my max. bid in the max. bid box and wait until 5 seconds before the end and then hit the bid button. 

Also, people seem to stick to the round number they have in mind, so don't use a round number or 'whole' dollars. If you are thinking of paying say $50 for an item, then bid $50.61 or $51.38, the odd dollar over or the pennies won't hurt you much on bigger amounts, but they can make all the difference to winning the auction.

If you know your price, then fine. If you need to get an idea of what an item will go for, then only look at ebay auctions and not 'buy it now' prices. Discount any ridiculously low prices and also any stupidly high auction prices and take an average of the others. 

If you don't win the bid this time and the seller is a dealer in camera gear, contact the seller and ask them to let you know if they get the same item in again and they can negotiate a price with you before they list on ebay and have to pay ebay fees.

 

Thanks very much. This sounds like useful battle-tested advice from the front lines. I couldn't figure out how the sniper program that I downloaded worked anyway.

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News bypasses QC, but I think I'd submit.

The DoF is thin as a business card, but I think it's sharp where it's supposed to be.

 

Same here. I think that Keith's sunglasses' photo  -- which I really like -- would pass QC no problem (famous last words).

 

Thankfully, I don't need an expensive long lens these days. The lightweight 55-210 (315mm on the long end with APS-C) that I'm using has been doing the job.

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Certainly does looks sharp enough for news, but I wouldn't submit sunglass pic otherwise . . . doesn't necessarily mean that shot at smaller aperture it wouldn't  do the job of course.

 

For longer lenses (and imo quite affordable too), I'm waiting to try the new AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm.

 

dd

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Certainly does looks sharp enough for news, but I wouldn't submit sunglass pic otherwise . . . doesn't necessarily mean that shot at smaller aperture it wouldn't  do the job of course.

 

For longer lenses (and imo quite affordable too), I'm waiting to try the new AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm.

 

dd

 

I'm interested in that lens too but will wait to see what DXO labs have to say about it first.

 

Allan

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I have the Sigma 50-500mm and it is sharp all the way to 500mm. I love it. Hefty but I've gotten some nice images all the way at 500mm.

Here are a couple:

Bought it refurbished at B&H in 2009. I just shoot really fast and on my D700 or D5100 in good light, don't worry about using a higher ISO. Have also used it on a tripod (for the boat photos) - it has a tripod brace and works well. 

 

tranquil-scene-of-rockland-harbor-maine-

 

new-york-august-31-andy-roddick-usa-clos

 

(handheld)

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made in better light....

 

that's sharp enough for me

 

km

 

Much better, I'd consider submitting submit this (but I'd still not submit the sunglasses :) )

 

dd

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The only SIGMA lens I have ever LOVED is the 2cd generation 120-300 2.8

Great optic, sorry but I don't have time to post my favorite images

using this glass on a D800 and 700.  I've not tried the new version

I am using the 2cd gen. before the IS

SIGMA customer service (U.S.) is great.

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made in better light....

 

that's sharp enough for me

 

km

 

Much better, I'd consider submitting submit this (but I'd still not submit the sunglasses :) )

 

dd

 

 

Ditto.

 

Allan

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made in better light....

 

that's sharp enough for me

 

km

 

Much better, I'd consider submitting submit this (but I'd still not submit the sunglasses :) )

 

dd

 

 

Ditto.

 

Allan

 

 

However, sometimes there is such a thing as "too sharp." B)

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I recently sold my Fuji cameras and lenses on Ebay and started at low low prices like £0.99 without minimum BIN. All returned excellent prices.

 

Allan

WHAT???

 

Traitor.....

 

 

Yes, sorry Betty.

 

I was being given too many SoLD gongs because of, to my mind, the upside-down sensor processing algorithms.

 

With the money I received from the sale I was able to buy a Nikon D750 plus Tamron 24-70 and 70-200 lenses, all new, which will cover me for most shoots. Now I get sharper images and, because of Bayer matrix, there are no problems processing images with foliage etc.

 

Allan (A happy bunny again)

 

 

I sold one of mine, keeping the newest one with the 50-140 but I was tempted by the darkside when someone placed a Sony A7r with a 16-35 lens in my hand to have a play with.

 

Now, after 2 weeks of ordering and returning various lenses, I have a Sony A7rii with a 28, 55, 90 plus 16-35. Got a load of good deals with Amazon where they were selling 2nd hand lenses directly from them that also qualified for an additional £100 cash back from Sony :)

 

I would never get rid of the other T1 & 50-140, love that lens and the dials, just needed more resolution & 4k video.

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