Jeffrey Isaac Greenberg Posted December 31, 2023 Share Posted December 31, 2023 (edited) arranging sliders in this manner now makes my ISO 6400 images look as good as ISO ~800 Adobe Camera RAW >"Detail" tab sliders in order they appear: 70 (Sharpening) default default 70 (Mask) 70 (Luminance) 50 0 (Contrast) <==this was the big discovery 70 (Color) 30 70 (Smoothness) for ISO 5000, 4000, 3200 etc steadily lower #s but same ratios Edited December 31, 2023 by Jeffrey Isaac Greenberg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDM Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 (edited) All very well Jeff but you would really be better to use the (nearly) new Denoise on the raw file as in previous discussions. It really is quite magical and way better than manual tweaking in most cases (it can make skin tones look a bit plasticy at high ISOs but so can manual noise reduction). Of course you would need a fast computer as previously discussed but the expenditure would most likely be worth it given the time saved. It has made a huge positive difference to how I work in terms of avoiding shooting at high ISO. Edited January 1 by MDM 1 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 (edited) 15 hours ago, MDM said: All very well Jeff but you would really be better to use the (nearly) new Denoise on the raw file as in previous discussions. It really is quite magical and way better than manual tweaking in most cases... I use Lightroom and assume that it's AI Denoiser is the same as Adobe Camera RAW's? Edited January 1 by Phil typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDM Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 27 minutes ago, Phil said: I use Lightroom and assume that it's AI Denoiser is the same as Adobe Camera RAW's? Yes exactly the same. I use Lightroom too mostly but tested Denoise in ACR and it's identical in terms of timing and results. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normspics Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 I’m finally seeing the end of my MacBook Pro late 2013 model, it still works fine getting a bit slow like me, but I’m being shut out of the latest features like noise reduction etc. I can’t upgrade the operating system to a non Intel based Mac chip. Would like to have access to these features as well as the latest Final Cut Pro improvements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bell Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 3 hours ago, Normspics said: I’m finally seeing the end of my MacBook Pro late 2013 model, it still works fine getting a bit slow like me, but I’m being shut out of the latest features like noise reduction etc. I can’t upgrade the operating system to a non Intel based Mac chip. Would like to have access to these features as well as the latest Final Cut Pro improvements. That happened to me when my late 2013 iMac would not upload new iterations of software. Had to go for new mac mini pro with separate 27" monitor. Allan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normspics Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 1 hour ago, Allan Bell said: That happened to me when my late 2013 iMac would not upload new iterations of software. Had to go for new mac mini pro with separate 27" monitor. Allan A new MacBook Pro is in my future 🔮 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDM Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 14 minutes ago, Normspics said: A new MacBook Pro is in my future 🔮 Consider a MacBook Pro with XDR screen which will allow you to edit in HDR, both stills and video (in FCP). If you are a Lighrtroom/Photoshop user, the ability to edit stills in HDR is very new - the HDR check box that Jeff mentioned in an earlier thread - and it is quite amazing (as is editing video in HDR). If you are inclined towards getting 11+ years out of a laptop, then this is more of a must than a preference. Keep in mind that there is no upgrade path whatsoever with these new Macs so plenty of memory is advisable for future proofing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normspics Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 2 hours ago, MDM said: Consider a MacBook Pro with XDR screen which will allow you to edit in HDR, both stills and video (in FCP). If you are a Lighrtroom/Photoshop user, the ability to edit stills in HDR is very new - the HDR check box that Jeff mentioned in an earlier thread - and it is quite amazing (as is editing video in HDR). If you are inclined towards getting 11+ years out of a laptop, then this is more of a must than a preference. Keep in mind that there is no upgrade path whatsoever with these new Macs so plenty of memory is advisable for future proofing. Thanks for your advice, my 2013 MacBook was the best specs available then at an Apple store ($3,800), what is shocking is a new machine with more memory ram etc (unified memory), is a lot cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Krack Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 (edited) On 01/01/2024 at 08:25, MDM said: All very well Jeff but you would really be better to use the (nearly) new Denoise on the raw file as in previous discussions. I would recommend DXO Pureraw3, which I reckon makes shots taken a ISO 12800 look like ISO 800 shots or even better. For me it's a game changer - I would never have dared to upload ISO 12800 shots to Alamy before, whereas now I do and so far all have passed. Edited January 12 by Rainer Krack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geogphotos Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 1 hour ago, Rainer Krack said: I would recommend DXO Pureraw3, which I reckon makes shots taken a ISO 12800 look like ISO 800 shots or even better. For me it's a game changer - I would never have dared to upload ISO 12800 shots to Alamy before, whereas now I do and so far all have passed. +10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDM Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 (edited) 5 hours ago, Rainer Krack said: I would recommend DXO Pureraw3, which I reckon makes shots taken a ISO 12800 look like ISO 800 shots or even better. For me it's a game changer - I would never have dared to upload ISO 12800 shots to Alamy before, whereas now I do and so far all have passed. However, that would require investing in PureRaw3 ($125 I think) whereas Jeff already has Denoise as part of the Adobe package. From what I read on DPReview, if correct, you need to invest in the entire DxO Photolab to be able to do anything more than a blackbox noise removal with PureRaw3. So that would be quite an extra investment ,given that Adobe Denoise is actually amazingly good as many users testify. I was sceptical until I tried it but it is excellent. Edited January 12 by MDM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geogphotos Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 (edited) I use DXO Pureraw3 as the first stage of my workflow. Load all RAWs and leave the program to process them. There are no sliders, nothing to fiddle with, it just does its job brilliantly and effortlessly to optimise each image. I used to just use it for church interiors at high ISO but, as I say, I use it for all images. Have not tried, or needed to try, any other DeNoise alternatives - I would recommend it strongly. Edited January 12 by geogphotos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IKuzmin Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 I guess there again are several options delivering similar results. I personally rely heavily on Topaz sharpen AI for improving motion blur which simultaneously removes noise to a decent extent. Otherwise can use Topaz Denoise AI although I do this very rarely. Both these apps are old and abandoned, and I have not found similarly “professional” results in the current Topaz Photo AI. If Topaz cannot make the job, I engage ACR denoise at the first step. But not often at all. As discussed earlier, I do not mind to have a certain amount of noise in the images. In contrast, when I tried DxO versions 4, 5, 6, I never had results that would satisfy me. My animals, particularly birds, were looking like plastic toys in the output. Anyway, I do not go above ISO3200 for modern sensors and 1600 for ~9 yo sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Krack Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 10 hours ago, geogphotos said: I use DXO Pureraw3 as the first stage of my workflow. Load all RAWs and leave the program to process them. Exactly as I do. For me it's the best RAW converter available at the moment (talking as a Fuji X user). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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