Lightroom - Auto contrast Preset?

[M.Chapman]

Is there an automated way (e.g. preset) in LR to achieve a similar result to the auto-contrast function in PSE? I've tried the LR auto-tone and it messes with too many settings (highlights, shadows etc.) and I often don't like the result.  I just want something that sets the black and white points automatically on a batch of images with varying exposure etc.

[Betty LaRue]

That would be a question for MDM.

[M.Chapman]

Maybe he'll be along shortly...

[MDM]

I expect the short answer is no - I can't imagine any way of doing this automatically but I never use these auto tone features etc anyway. The only I can imagine automating this in LR would be if you had a batch of very similar images, then set the black and white points manually for one and then sync.

[spacecadet]

My answer is also to the question you didn't ask- I use auto tone.

I always seem to have to pull down highlights quite a bit in most images- is there a way I can avoid this at the exposure stage?

[MDM]

My answer is also to the question you didn't ask- I use auto tone.

I always seem to have to pull down highlights quite a bit in most images- is there a way I can avoid this at the exposure stage?

Underexpose? Actually I think highlights are particularly difficult to judge by eye as a lot of monitors will not display highlight detail properly so you may simply not be seeing the highlight detail. But the histogram is very helpful here as is a wide gamut monitor.

[spacecadet]

Not by eye, I mean that the highlights are actually shown as clipped in LR. I routinely pull them down to -50 or more. Exposure point taken-  would you dial in a permanent minus compensation?

[MDM]

If you have clipped highlights for most shots, then you are overexposing so you probably want to pull back a bit but ETTR is recommended generally for raw so not too far. If you want to be really accurate, check your meter using a grey card or a Color Checker Passport even better. I use manual exposure and spot metering so judge each scenario individually rather than dialling in an compensation.

[spacecadet]

I suppose this will mean turning off Auto Tone in LR.

[MDM]

Not necessarily if it gets you into the right ballpark as they say across the water - but maybe it's a bit of a crutch which you don't really need.

 

This is broadly how I do it in LR. I start with the exposure and then the white balance, then I set the black and white points, then I deal with the shadows and highlights, then finally the contrast (using curves which I prefer for contrast control) all the while tweaking the exposure and other parameters as required.

[spacecadet]

On examination Auto Tone doesn't usually change exposure by more than 0.3 or so and it seems to take more than that to stop the highlight clipping. I might try a -0.3 or 0.7 compensation. It won't wreck anything.

[MDM]

Your images don't look overexposed to me at all. I would not universally add negative compensation if I were you. In fact some of your outdoor images (e.g the look very underexposed for the main subjects - the sky is affecting your exposures so the buildings are too dark. Don't consider sky areas when looking at clipped highlights - bring these back using the grad filter and work on the main subject (e.g. buildings). If anything you need to add exposure compensation for these. Meter from your main subject and take care of the skies in LR with the grad filter. Or if you can't get enough dynamic range, try sensible HDR where appropriate.

[MDM]

Just to add something in relation to how I develop raw images. For landscapes or images with sky, I set a ballpark exposure for the land or main subject first, then I use a grad to darken the sky, then I set the WB. This will often be different for the land and the sky. I set the WB for the land area and then often need to modify the sky with the grad, usually adding yellow to take out excess blue. Then I do as above:  I set the black and white points, then I deal with the shadows and highlights, then finally the contrast (using curves which I prefer for contrast control) all the while tweaking the exposure and other parameters as required.

[spacecadet]

Thanks for the help. I suspect I've gone from centre-weighting to multi segment when changing cameras without understanding how it works. I've just found a button that does AEL whilst switching to spot so I may give that a try for lansdcape-sky. Though that may cut across one of the advantages of RAW- unblown skies.

I used to use grads a lot more when I was on JPEG, of necessity. Now I often darken skies just with the highlight slider and whack up the blue saturation, if it's the only blue.

[Betty LaRue]

Your images don't look overexposed to me at all. I would not universally add negative compensation if I were you. In fact some of your outdoor images (e.g the look very underexposed for the main subjects - the sky is affecting your exposures so the buildings are too dark. Don't consider sky areas when looking at clipped highlights - bring these back using the grad filter and work on the main subject (e.g. buildings). If anything you need to add exposure compensation for these. Meter from your main subject and take care of the skies in LR with the grad filter. Or if you can't get enough dynamic range, try sensible HDR where appropriate.

When using the grad filter, which I've done, I need help here. It easy to use the grad for landscapes with nothing tall jutting up. But how can I use it if a power pole, a tree, or something tall intrudes far into the sky? The grad turns half of these objects dark. I don't care to use the erase tool if the subject is complicated, like a tree or multiple objects.

[spacecadet]

You can paint around trees and buildings with the adjustment brush. Set the feather so the transition isn't too sharp. Small details like power poles I don't worry about. I let them go dark.

I've tried the auto mask to stop it affecting midtones and shadows but it tends to leave edge artefacts.

[M.Chapman]

 

Your images don't look overexposed to me at all. I would not universally add negative compensation if I were you. In fact some of your outdoor images (e.g the look very underexposed for the main subjects - the sky is affecting your exposures so the buildings are too dark. Don't consider sky areas when looking at clipped highlights - bring these back using the grad filter and work on the main subject (e.g. buildings). If anything you need to add exposure compensation for these. Meter from your main subject and take care of the skies in LR with the grad filter. Or if you can't get enough dynamic range, try sensible HDR where appropriate.

When using the grad filter, which I've done, I need help here. It easy to use the grad for landscapes with nothing tall jutting up. But how can I use it if a power pole, a tree, or something tall intrudes far into the sky? The grad turns half of these objects dark. I don't care to use the erase tool if the subject is complicated, like a tree or multiple objects.

 

 

Have you tried using the highlight slider in the LR grad tool instead of the exposure slider? The highlight slider will adjust your skies with less effect on darker items.

[Betty LaRue]

 

 

Your images don't look overexposed to me at all. I would not universally add negative compensation if I were you. In fact some of your outdoor images (e.g the look very underexposed for the main subjects - the sky is affecting your exposures so the buildings are too dark. Don't consider sky areas when looking at clipped highlights - bring these back using the grad filter and work on the main subject (e.g. buildings). If anything you need to add exposure compensation for these. Meter from your main subject and take care of the skies in LR with the grad filter. Or if you can't get enough dynamic range, try sensible HDR where appropriate.

 

When using the grad filter, which I've done, I need help here. It easy to use the grad for landscapes with nothing tall jutting up. But how can I use it if a power pole, a tree, or something tall intrudes far into the sky? The grad turns half of these objects dark. I don't care to use the erase tool if the subject is complicated, like a tree or multiple objects.

 

Have you tried using the highlight slider in the LR grad tool instead of the exposure slider? The highlight slider will adjust your skies with less effect on darker items.

No, I haven't tried that!

[Betty LaRue]

Something I have done in LR is get the sky looking how I want at the expense of the foreground, then open into PS, add a layer. Bring exposure up to suit the foreground, then brush it off the sky and flatten.

Those who don't use PS and the magic of layers, can't do that.

[MDM]

 

 

 

Your images don't look overexposed to me at all. I would not universally add negative compensation if I were you. In fact some of your outdoor images (e.g the look very underexposed for the main subjects - the sky is affecting your exposures so the buildings are too dark. Don't consider sky areas when looking at clipped highlights - bring these back using the grad filter and work on the main subject (e.g. buildings). If anything you need to add exposure compensation for these. Meter from your main subject and take care of the skies in LR with the grad filter. Or if you can't get enough dynamic range, try sensible HDR where appropriate.

When using the grad filter, which I've done, I need help here. It easy to use the grad for landscapes with nothing tall jutting up. But how can I use it if a power pole, a tree, or something tall intrudes far into the sky? The grad turns half of these objects dark. I don't care to use the erase tool if the subject is complicated, like a tree or multiple objects.

 

Have you tried using the highlight slider in the LR grad tool instead of the exposure slider? The highlight slider will adjust your skies with less effect on darker items.

No, I haven't tried that!

 

As well as using the highlghts slider you can also bring up the shadows with the grad which often works to lighten objects that were not meant to be darkened. I use the LR grad as a first coat but I will often take the image into PS and use adjustment layers like you. I used to do this all the time, now I do it less often. Having said that, the new Select Focus Area feature in PS is just amazing as you can select sky instantaneously so I am tending to use PS more again for lightening foreground and/or darkening skies. Before I would generally use the magic wand and lasso which could take a bit of time. Betty if you can learn Photoshop and you clearly can, then Lightroom should be child's play.

[Betty LaRue]

 

 

 

 

Your images don't look overexposed to me at all. I would not universally add negative compensation if I were you. In fact some of your outdoor images (e.g the look very underexposed for the main subjects - the sky is affecting your exposures so the buildings are too dark. Don't consider sky areas when looking at clipped highlights - bring these back using the grad filter and work on the main subject (e.g. buildings). If anything you need to add exposure compensation for these. Meter from your main subject and take care of the skies in LR with the grad filter. Or if you can't get enough dynamic range, try sensible HDR where appropriate.

 

When using the grad filter, which I've done, I need help here. It easy to use the grad for landscapes with nothing tall jutting up. But how can I use it if a power pole, a tree, or something tall intrudes far into the sky? The grad turns half of these objects dark. I don't care to use the erase tool if the subject is complicated, like a tree or multiple objects.

Have you tried using the highlight slider in the LR grad tool instead of the exposure slider? The highlight slider will adjust your skies with less effect on darker items.

No, I haven't tried that!

As well as using the highlghts slider you can also bring up the shadows with the grad which often works to lighten objects that were not meant to be darkened. I use the LR grad as a first coat but I will often take the image into PS and use adjustment layers like you. I used to do this all the time, now I do it less often. Having said that, the new Select Focus Area feature in PS is just amazing as you can select sky instantaneously so I am tending to use PS more again for lightening foreground and/or darkening skies. Before I would generally use the magic wand and lasso which could take a bit of time. Betty if you can learn Photoshop and you clearly can, then Lightroom should be child's play.

Oops! I must've missed the Select Focus Area feature, MDM! Wow, I have to find that. I'll Google it. Thanks for the tip.