Images a bit pale looking

[MDM]

Too much lightening of the shadows seems a likely bit of advice, but I would also suggest being more critical at the moment of shooting. People often say of my stuff "you get good skies" No, I wait for good skies. Do look at the light; if it's rubbish, put the camera away and come back when you stand a better chance. Or take note that this would be better taken at a different time of day and plan to return. This photography thing takes lots of patience, and being realistic about lighting is a big part of it

 

I know that sounds a bit grumpy, but I often wonder why people put stuff up on Alamy when the conditions were so far short of ideal that positive results would be so unlikely

 

Not at all grumpy - I absolutely agree - light is fundamental to everything photographic and patience and planning are essential. It's all part of the control thing.

[MDM]

Usually, yes, since I got my A1 in about 1991. A for the sweet spot on my long zoom though.

Seems to work out.

 

Each to his own I guess.

[Dave Richards]

 

Thank you all so much for your help. I'll take all the advice on board...........and read the Lightroom manual!!

The what?

 

 

Not so much a manual but a couple of books - Teach Yourself Lightroom and Lightroom Made Easy. A bit of reading for my train journeys to and from work.

[IanGibson]

 

 

Thank you all so much for your help. I'll take all the advice on board...........and read the Lightroom manual!!

 

The what?

 

Not so much a manual but a couple of books - Teach Yourself Lightroom and Lightroom Made Easy. A bit of reading for my train journeys to and from work.

I use Martin Evening's Photoshop book. It has ACR sections, which are pretty much the same as LR as far as processing is concerned.

[Dave Richards]

 

 

I am looking at your images on a monitor set with an old Spyder3 Pro calibrator (relatively cheap). I agree your images are pale. When adjusting your images you need to set the black point darker 000 and the white point brighter 255 255 255. I usually adjust the black and white points until I receive warnings in the blackest shadow and the whitest highlight. Then I back off to taste. Your mid point (exposure) is about correct. Your black point is way too light. Some shadows should be empty, and some highlights should be blown.

 

Your images would be easier to print because they have a limited dynamic range, but that dynamic range makes them look pale on a monitor. The buying decision is made on the monitor, most client uses are for monitor display, so pale works against you.

 

 

I don't agree with Bill's assessment in that the images do mostly go to maximum black if you download some and check the histos in Photoshop. So I don't think it's a dynamic range issue as they do have a full tonal range (the ones I've looked at in any case). I do think, however, that the shadow areas have been lightened a bit too much so that they look a bit like HDR images. You could darken the shadows a bit and increase the midtone contrast, then maybe add a touch of Vibrance to make them pop a bit more.

 

As wim says, Apple monitors are way too bright. A hardware calibrator like the X-Rite i1 Display PRO (about £170) is highly recommended as that allows you to control the brightness and the colour. If you want to go all the way, get an X-Rite Color Checker Passport with the calibrator and you can start creating your own camera profiles which gives you a lot of control over how your images look - not hard to learn and well worth getting to grips with.

 

And as Ed says, you have not given much information - are you shooting raw, how are you doing the raw conversions etc.

 

 

I'll give the X-Rite a go. Thanks again for taking the time to help.

[MDM]

 

 

 

I am looking at your images on a monitor set with an old Spyder3 Pro calibrator (relatively cheap). I agree your images are pale. When adjusting your images you need to set the black point darker 000 and the white point brighter 255 255 255. I usually adjust the black and white points until I receive warnings in the blackest shadow and the whitest highlight. Then I back off to taste. Your mid point (exposure) is about correct. Your black point is way too light. Some shadows should be empty, and some highlights should be blown.

 

Your images would be easier to print because they have a limited dynamic range, but that dynamic range makes them look pale on a monitor. The buying decision is made on the monitor, most client uses are for monitor display, so pale works against you.

 

 

I don't agree with Bill's assessment in that the images do mostly go to maximum black if you download some and check the histos in Photoshop. So I don't think it's a dynamic range issue as they do have a full tonal range (the ones I've looked at in any case). I do think, however, that the shadow areas have been lightened a bit too much so that they look a bit like HDR images. You could darken the shadows a bit and increase the midtone contrast, then maybe add a touch of Vibrance to make them pop a bit more.

 

As wim says, Apple monitors are way too bright. A hardware calibrator like the X-Rite i1 Display PRO (about £170) is highly recommended as that allows you to control the brightness and the colour. If you want to go all the way, get an X-Rite Color Checker Passport with the calibrator and you can start creating your own camera profiles which gives you a lot of control over how your images look - not hard to learn and well worth getting to grips with.

 

And as Ed says, you have not given much information - are you shooting raw, how are you doing the raw conversions etc.

 

 

I'll give the X-Rite a go. Thanks again for taking the time to help.

 

No problem Dave. Nothing like a good discussion to clarify the mind.

[MDM]

 

 

 

Thank you all so much for your help. I'll take all the advice on board...........and read the Lightroom manual!!

The what?

 

Not so much a manual but a couple of books - Teach Yourself Lightroom and Lightroom Made Easy. A bit of reading for my train journeys to and from work.

I use Martin Evening's Photoshop book. It has ACR sections, which are pretty much the same as LR as far as processing is concerned.

 

 

Agree but there is a lot more to Lightroom than raw processsing and Martin Evening is an absolute expert and very good at transmitting information - the Lightroom book is worth it.