Martyn Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Was out and about yesterday using the Fuji XT.1 and had to use the 18mm due to tight working space, a lens I try to avoid using due to the fall off in sharpness in the corners. Had the camera set to RAW and jpeg Astia as usual. Started to work on the RAW files in Photoshop CC, opening directly in Photoshop and could not believe the amount of green and purple fringing....the purple slider dealt with the purple easily enough but the green was almost impossible to remove when using the slider.....lens correction didn't do much either so had to try the desaturation tool on the greens which worked....but removed all of the greens in the pix at the same time ! Gave up on that and went to the in camera j.pegs....no fringing in those whatsoever ! I'm guessing that the in camera processing dealt with it a lot better than I could manage in Photoshop so I went with the j.pegs. I don't have any other software to open the RAW files in other than Silkypix which I don't like and have only used Lightroom the once and couldn't get on with it ! Has anyone else experienced this with the 18mm and if so, how did you deal with it (other than ditching the 18mm and buying the 14mm !) ? !! Thanks in advance ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDoug Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I've used Silkypix for years and like it. Recently I reluctantly bought Lightroom 6 because it handles some fringing better. ISL claims that version 7 of Silkypix is better than 6 for fringing, but comparing it to Lightroom it didn't work as well. The LR interface is difficult for me to get used to, but it's the results that matter in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Ok, thanks.....Maybe I need to start experimenting with Lightroom then.... ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizzy Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 I haven't honestly tried removing fringing with other software but Lightroom usually does a good job. Sometimes the adjustment that affects the whole image can cause problems on areas without any fringing, but there is the brush tool which lets you target a specific area of an image. I use that quite often, and draw around areas with fringing so the rest of the image isn't affected. +1 to this... The adjustment brush defringe is super useful when the fringing is a bit more stubborn. I would highly recommend the Martin Evening Lightroom book for getting to grips with it, as he explains everything from start to finish in a thorough but understandable way (the version for LR5 can be picked up pretty reasonably second hand on Amazon). There are also lots of great tutorials and walkthroughs on YouTube - I especially liked the Anthony Morganti ones. The interface of Lightroom is intimidating at first, but once you get a flow going its very straightforward Lizzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDoug Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 I'm guessing that the in camera processing dealt with it a lot better than I could manage in Photoshop so I went with the j.pegs. There's another alternative which is free and might solve the PF/CA problem: Shoot RAW and, after saving the files to disc, put the card back in the camera. Push the image review button and, with a photo open, push the Menu/OK button. At the top of the list is RAW conversion with various image modification options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.