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4 hours ago, wiskerke said:

 

Ah yes that thread that lasted half a year if I remember correctly. Wasn't it about chairs and Russian ladies? And the answer probably was 42.

 

What I use as extension rings sometimes is old filters, which are mostly worthless. Just remove the glass or plastic and stack them. The cheap ones are the best, because those can be unscrewed to get the glass out. (Use rubber gloves, preferably no tools.)

Because they're so thin, one needs quite a few, but adjusting is very easy because of that. Another advantage is that the size of one's own filters usually matches one's own lenses.

 

wim

 

42 is close to the number of times the correct answer was given although nobody was sure what the question was by the time we hit page 34 😀.  I  must have missed the Russian ladies. I would recommend a pack of plastic filter wrenches (Chinese ones are fine) to remove step-up or step-down adapters that get stuck (cost about £4). I got one stuck tight on a lens and fortunately had one of those plastic wrenches to remove it. I expect you or Harry will have some alternative suggestion that costs nothing but it was worth the £4 at the time to me 😀

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1 hour ago, MDM said:

 

42 is close to the number of times the correct answer was given although nobody was sure what the question was by the time we hit page 34 😀.  I  must have missed the Russian ladies. I would recommend a pack of plastic filter wrenches (Chinese ones are fine) to remove step-up or step-down adapters that get stuck (cost about £4). I got one stuck tight on a lens and fortunately had one of those plastic wrenches to remove it. I expect you or Harry will have some alternative suggestion that costs nothing but it was worth the £4 at the time to me 😀

 

Yes! Of course! 😁

Next time ask your dentist for one or two sheets of Dental Dam.

Keep the object absolutely flat on the latex shield on the table and try to apply as even a pressure as you can from above, while turning. The evenness is the main reason it works. A small piece of wood or a stiff coaster is sometimes better than the open hand. Between the object and the coaster or the hand goes the other dental dam sheet. But the whole thing works with latex or sticky nitrile gloves as well. Some people use the sticky rubber sole of a running shoe as one side. Maybe if you're in a pinch. I have not seen solutions with 2 shoes, Probably shoes are not flat enough. Dental dam weighs like 3g and is the size of a large post-it note. The smaller kid size is fine.

 

wim

 

edit: Your dentist may of course bill you for more than that £4 😂

In my case until now they have been free.

Edited by wiskerke
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5 hours ago, MDM said:

I expect you or Harry will have some alternative suggestion

Actually as it happens I recently wanted to remove the front element of an old but very good zoom lens. I knew the mounting ring was screwed on but there was nothing on it to engage a tool of any kind. Small strips of heavy duty double-sided tape around the lip of an empty mango chutney jar worked a treat.

Edited by Harry Harrison
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10 hours ago, Harry Harrison said:

I see that the ES-2 comes with two adapters, both have 62mm at the lens and 52mm to attach to the slide holder, one is 9mm and the other is 33mm, both are plastic.  I suspect that if you get a 21mm & 28mm '52mm' extension ring then you will be all set. Seems they are available on Amazon here.

 

However, I'd also agree that buying a 14mm & a 7mm would give you more scope even if you don't end up needing them, or just wait till the ES-2 arrives I guess.

 

Thanks Harry. I went to order them and ended up in the hell that is Amazon two step verification ( I do not use a mobile phone) and just haven't got the will to waste today battling Amazon's kafkaesque empire. 

 

I'm not in that much of a rush so will wait until I have the new toys and see what's what. 

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15 minutes ago, geogphotos said:

I'm not in that much of a rush so will wait until I have the new toys and see what's what. 

Yes, probably best. I doubt many people buy both the ES-1 & the ES-2 but you will be able to use that special 62-52 33mm plastic extension ring on the ES-1 so you'll probably only need to buy a 21mm or 28mm extension ring. The ES-1 is very slightly more stable in the closed position than it is fully extended but not really anything to worry about.

Edited by Harry Harrison
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28 minutes ago, Harry Harrison said:

Yes, probably best. I doubt many people buy both the ES-1 & the ES-2 but you will be able to use that special 62-52 33mm plastic extension ring on the ES-1 so you'll probably only need to buy a 21mm or 28mm extension ring. The ES-1 is very slightly more stable in the closed position than it is fully extended but not really anything to worry about.

 

 

I'll set up what I get and share on here.

 

Thanks everybody again for your patient help.

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21 hours ago, M.Chapman said:

For those wanting an ES-1 this maybe of interest?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284244408342

But the white telecopic extension tube is a bit of a mystery item.

 

Mark

 

 


Maybe the seller or whoever they got it from thinks it is one of those old slide viewer things and has attached a magnifying eyepiece?  There is also a Nikon BR5 adapter. Altogether if it is worth about £120 new by UK prices. 

Edited by MDM
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24 minutes ago, MDM said:


Maybe the seller or whoever they got it from thinks it is one of those old slide viewer things and has attached a magnifying eyepiece?  There is also a Nikon BR5 adapter. Altogether if it is worth about £120 new by UK prices. 

 

I think the seller attached the ES-1 with those PVC pipes to his/her non-Nikon lens. Like here. I would not have used white though. Unless it's been used as a sort of contrast control when duplicating slides on slide film. Some used pre-flashing for that. The Bowens Illumitran had an optional Contrast Control Unit (CCU) for this.

 

wim

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1 hour ago, wiskerke said:

 

I think the seller attached the ES-1 with those PVC pipes to his/her non-Nikon lens. Like here. I would not have used white though. Unless it's been used as a sort of contrast control when duplicating slides on slide film. Some used pre-flashing for that. The Bowens Illumitran had an optional Contrast Control Unit (CCU) for this.

 

wim

On the subject of reducing contrast whilst copying slide film (Vevia in particular) I'm finding that using a Lumariver linear DCP profile derived from an IT8 test slide does an excellent job of controlling contrast. Photographing a Velvia slide (already contrasty) followed by the (default) application of a contrast boosting Adobe Standard Camera profile results in a starting point that is way too contrasty. Using a Lumariver IT8 test slide derived DCP profile also helps to get the colours accurate (ie to match the slide).

 

Mark

Edited by M.Chapman
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2 minutes ago, M.Chapman said:

On the subject of reducing contrast whilst copying slide film (Vevia in particular) I'm finding that using a Lumariver linear DCP profile derived from an IT8 test slide does an excellent job of controlling contrast. Photographing a Velvia slide (already contrasty) followed by the (default) application of a contrast boosting Adobe Standard Camera profile results in a starting point that is way too contrasty. Using a Lumariver IT8 test slide derived DCP profile also helps to get the colours accurate (ie to match the slide).

 

Mark

 

Thank you! Interesting! I will look into that. Not that I ever want to copy/scan Velvia again, but I may have to at one point. I found pepper grain the biggest problem.

Almost all my serious slides are Velvia 50 and 100. Up to 4x5s.

 

wim

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7 minutes ago, wiskerke said:

 

Thank you! Interesting! I will look into that. Not that I ever want to copy/scan Velvia again, but I may have to at one point. I found pepper grain the biggest problem.

Almost all my serious slides are Velvia 50 and 100. Up to 4x5s.

 

wim

Lumariver is here http://www.lumariver.com/. Highly recommended. If you want colour accuracy it blows the socks off X-Rite or Adobe DNG generated profiles (based on dE measurements on processed images of Passport or IT8 test targets). 

 

Mark

Edited by M.Chapman
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30 minutes ago, M.Chapman said:

On the subject of reducing contrast whilst copying slide film (Vevia in particular) I'm finding that using a Lumariver linear DCP profile derived from an IT8 test slide does an excellent job of controlling contrast. Photographing a Velvia slide (already contrasty) followed by the (default) application of a contrast boosting Adobe Standard Camera profile results in a starting point that is way too contrasty. Using a Lumariver IT8 test slide derived DCP profile also helps to get the colours accurate (ie to match the slide).

 

Mark

 

I think the most important thing here is a camera with excellent dynamic range. I. was astonished at the highlight and shadow detail I was able to recover from very contrasty Velvia slides. The profile is just a starting point for raw editing  but the fundamentally important thing is capturing the detail in the raw image. 

Edited by MDM
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3 minutes ago, geogphotos said:

I contacted that eBay seller. The attachment does not unattach.

I can see how someone might have misguidedly glued the white plastic tube to the Nikon BR-5 ring (£47 at Wex!) but glueing that ring to the ES-1 adapter is taking things a bit far.

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7 hours ago, Harry Harrison said:

I can see how someone might have misguidedly glued the white plastic tube to the Nikon BR-5 ring (£47 at Wex!) but glueing that ring to the ES-1 adapter is taking things a bit far.

Un-gluing is not that hard. It's a bit too thick to do it chemically, besides heat is less destructive. Most if not all glues give up under heat. A simple hairdryer usually is enough. Sometimes the heat gun has to come out. Never use open flame though.

With a hair dryer give it 5 to 10 minutes. 1 or 2 with a heat gun. Try to apply heat as locally as possible. I would remove the white diffuser first. One never knows if it will warp or yellow.

 

Before removing it I would test if it maybe provides the exact solution for my own situation 😁. Which is not impossible.

If so, I would put a bit of this inside.

 

wim

 

I've just looked at the contraption again, and the ring normally just comes off. So you just screw in your own, or you have to remove the ring from the tube. No glue is visible. My guess is it's been glued with a Cyanoacrylate, or Superglue or Instant glue. Which cannot withstand shock very well. Nor heat.

Still, it may just fit your own lens as it is.

 

edit 2: Aha It just dawns on me that the problem is that the ring got glued to the ES-1 as well. Haha! That proves my guess that it's been a cyanoacrylate: most people are just too quick with it. And glue their fingers to the object or to the table as well. Adam Savage about superglue.

 

Edited by wiskerke
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7 hours ago, wiskerke said:

edit 2: Aha It just dawns on me that the problem is that the ring got glued to the ES-1 as well. Haha! That proves my guess that it's been a cyanoacrylate: most people are just too quick with it. And glue their fingers to the object or to the table as well. Adam Savage about superglue.

Thanks, I'd never come across Adam Savage but I'll be looking at his channel again, that was certainly a masterclass on superglue.  I don't use it that often and of course when I want to it's dried out as he says. Now I use the medium stuff and the one I bought has a double screw cap and has been fine. That trick with the baking powder was extraordinary, worth waiting for even if I did have to sit through an advert by our very own Nigel Farage (something very wrong with the algorithm there). I'd never heard of the accelerator and I like those 'styrene' sheets, they look very handy. I'm also pleased to see he looks fit and healthy after a lifetime of breathing that stuff in, I'm terrified of it.

 

I've got an ES-1 so I'm not planning to bid on this one though it's tempting just for the challenge of getting it apart.

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