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Priorities. Auto, Speed,Aperture or Manual?


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For general shooting with D700 and 800 - AP with auto iso maxing at 3200 ( +1stop on min shutter speed with D800) and generally a bit of  -'ve exposure compensation to protect highlights. If I need a slower shutter speed or the light gets too bad or I really want lower iso I'll disable auto iso (or reduce min shutter speed) and think about bracing for slow speeds.

For tripod work AP with iso at minimum.

For handheld macro with flash Manual exposure with low iso.

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I get a little petrified of going fully manual.

 

I wonder if it's all trial and error in manual mode, or if it's just more or less knowing where your aperture and and speed should be just from experience. And beyond that, what is the real advantage of manual over say, aperture or speed mode?

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I get a little petrified of going fully manual.

 

I wonder if it's all trial and error in manual mode, or if it's just more or less knowing where your aperture and and speed should be just from experience. And beyond that, what is the real advantage of manual over say, aperture or speed mode?

It's quite the opposite - total control is what you get in manual mode - the other modes are the more likely hit and miss ones. With manual, you take a meter reading, set the controls and take your pictures without worrying about the camera changing the settings if you move it. Of course it is important here to understand the metering process and the metering mode used is probably just as pertinent here. I expect many of the people who said they use manual also use spot metering - I do almost always. This allows one to take an accurate reading from a particular small area of the scene and hold that reading for as many shots as you like - assuming the light has not changed of course.

 

So spot metering, manual exposure and manual (hyperfocal) focus it is for me (my subjects are static almost always). No fear, no trepidation.

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I shoot manual, even when I shoot insects etc using my macro lens. I also focus manual, however (not to change the subject) I am toying with the idea of using autofocus as my once sharp vision is starting to blur a bit for close objects. I sometimes look at the histogram, but often my subject has flown away by then and its kind of pointless.

Chris

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I only shoot manual and only shoot in RAW.

 

I will up the ISO if I need a slower shot, up to 1000 gives minimal noise in daylight. ND and Polarizing filters also useful in bright light. Use D700's. For the rest will use histogram and view pic if situation demands. Find auto and derivatives thereof ( P, S and A ) not reliable or consistent albeit that they have a place in fast moving/changing environments.

 

In terms of priorities it depends on the subject matter. Is it moving, what depth of field is needed, are you using a tripod, is time of the essence. If there was one answer to suit all there would be even more competition than there is now.

 

dov

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ive watched this thread with interest...

 

The fact is it depends on what I'm shooting... where I am and expectations......

 

The ISO is always set approximately right for the light and carried around in AP mode. That way I will never miss a shot it's just down to me getting the camera into position, it will always be exposed close enough.... and if i have time to adjust, I always have control varying the Aperture with one button and exposure compensation with the other so to say you HAVE to be in manual to have FULL control is a little bit of a fallacy... its just different buttons or controls.

 

If i have time or I am shooting something particularity challenging then it is total manual....

 

Not sure why i answered it really ... as questions like this sort of annoy me... a little ;-)

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