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MilesbeforeIsleep

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Everything posted by MilesbeforeIsleep

  1. This is perhaps why ALAMY doesn't borrow money---they can't, as they have no convertible assets, present or future. If all profits move into charity, contributors are their only source for 'loans'--albeit loans which need not be payed back.
  2. A hate crime? It's certainly a 'contempt crime'.
  3. Of course. You've literally turned their world upside down! (Warning! This may now be considered a hate crime.)
  4. Thanks for this, Julie. Do we have anyone with membership in NPPA, the U.S. version of BPPA? Perhaps they're not yet aware of the situation and would like to comment. https://www.nppa.org/
  5. James said as much (i.e., wanting to be another SS) He wants Alamy to perhaps be a 1.5 tier 'agency' (or whatever you call it). They're wanting the revenue of the Tier one MS agencies, and to get there they have to sell at prices competitive with them. They've been edging toward that, apparently, for quite awhile. That requires paying contributors as MS agencies pay theirs. Not hard to figure that out. It's not rocket surgery. I expect they feel this is their only choice, and they may be right. Perhaps they've gone too egalitarian both in their library and their contribut
  6. OK. Let me try to sort this out. When I said I shoot manual, with auto ISO, that's not strictly manual, is it? But on my camera, when I set the knob to manual mode, it still allows me to set ISO to Auto. Thus, I am--strictly speaking--in an Auto mode, while my little knob says 'manual'. And because my knob says "manual", I said "manual". My bad. And with the camera set up thusly, if I'm not happy with what the light meter has done with ISO, I can still manually control ISO using the exposure compensation dial. Simple as that. So, with that setup, if I shou
  7. Perhaps I didn't explain myself clearly. What I described IS using a manual exposure mode. I'm choosing SS, Aperture, focus point and exposure all manually. But in order to separate exposure lock from shutter press, I have to take an extra short step. The only thing I'm setting to auto is ISO, which--as I said--if it gets out of hand, I can adjust with Exposure compensation. I'm sure this is all very familiar to experienced Canon users. I am more recently starting to shoot more "action" shots which are not much reflected in my port , hence the need to refine my technique.
  8. Don't know if this will apply to your rig, John. I've been recently addressing this, having always relied on an automatic metering mode that is activated with autofocus. I typically shoot in manual SS and Aperture, with Auto ISO (which can then be adjusted, if necessary, by Exposure Comp). I also focus and recompose--probably 75% of the time--and always using back button focus. What I finally figured out (duh!) was that when I recomposed, the shutter button half-press (alas, you do have to go to half-press before full-press) was readjusting my exposure based on the center of the
  9. Does downsizing not limit the usability of the files for customers? It seems one would want to upload the largest possible file size.
  10. 240 or 300 dpi for downsized image? I've always exported from LR at 300dpi.
  11. Thanks, MDM. Though they may achieve the same results, I find it easier to examine the results while still in PS, and in saving back to LR. I'm working with a new camera, lens, and also shooting more motion than I have in the past, so I'm in kind of a complex experimental mode, and want to be able to fiddle with, and look carefully at, whatever I do in LR/PS. Michael
  12. Thanks, SC. I think I'm going to use PS, at least for now, so I can review what I'm doing before export. With more experience, I may not feel it necessary.
  13. I've seen many references to downsizing to increase visible sharpness in a questionable image. I've never done this, but the time has come to incorporate it into my workflow--only when necessary, of course. I'm currently tossing away some images that I think can be saved. There are countless 'methods' described on the web for doing this, some quite complicated. Would appreciate a description of your preferred technique for downsizing. Is it simply opening in PS and reducing the pixel dimensions of the image, or is there more to it than that? Shooting w
  14. I want to thank everyone (save the now apparently deleted expert) for making this a very successful thread. I am glad that I restrained my sometimes sharp tongue and ignored said expert. As a relative beginner, it was best to let the more experienced respond--which you all did with admirable restraint. As for my recent purchase of the used 5D4 and (new)Sigma 24-105 f4, I have been struggling a bit with finding correct focus points for larger urban scenes. Moving from a crop sensor to full frame is actually doing something! As I improve my focus technique, I think the Sigma is
  15. If you're using LR, and have the default CA boxes checked, use the manual adjustments. If it's CA, they will at least try to remove that. If they change the purple, it's CA, even if they don't remove it. Even if it's not CA, it really doesn't look so great. Though this is not an example, there are some bushes (in my neck of the woods) that actually have purple stems. That can get your attention!
  16. Good pics, and thanks for the tips about photographing backlit leaves. --Michael
  17. Hi Chuck. Thanks for the post. A few days ago, I did what everyone (including me, at some point) recommends I not do, and bought a Canon 5D mark 4. I did it for a few reasons. My only experience with DSLRs is with the 7D mark 2 (which, I've learned from the 5D4) is a REALLY good crop sensor camera. But I'm not a terribly experienced photographer, and was reluctant to change systems. I know the Canon buttons and options pretty well, and was not ready right now to relearn all that--while I'm still learning some aspects of shooting stock (particularly, shooting fast and accurately). B
  18. I want to thank everyone who's contributing to this thread. It's really helpful to me, and hopefully to others. I drove to a camera store in a nearby city yesterday, mostly to look at Nikons. They didn't have a D850, but did have a D810 that was very interesting to me. However, they also had a slightly used, quite pristine, Canon 5D Mark 4, and I bought it for $2250, US$--which seems to me to be a very good price. Current market price in US for a new one is $3099 and a refurb from canon is $2700.. This one comes with a 2 month full warranty from the store (they would sen
  19. Imageplotter ,thanks for the reply. I commend you for carrying two cameras around--including the 70-200. I have that lens, and its no lightweight. And in the smaller cities I wander in, I'm afraid I'd look like a crazy old man--and certainly attract more attention than I currently do, at 6'2". I know the 24-70 f2.8 is much sharper than the 24-105, but with no IS, I worry about that negatively affecting my successful shot rate, as well as the loss of range. Perhaps on the rumoured (and I hadn't heard) ver III, they'll manage to make IS work with it. I may try the Sigma,
  20. Hi Martin. Thanks for the reply. My first reason for wanting to be able to pull up the shadows "at least three stops" is because the competition's cameras (D850 and Sony a7r3) can do that, according to whom I consider reliable reviewers, and I want something approaching the best technology available. But some of my interest in photography is taking what some call "street photography"--with scenes that are appropriate for stock. And in evening hours, or in areas of really high contrast (bright, close to blown-out sky, with shadows under awnings, in doorways, etc., I believe it would be
  21. Thanks, Graham. Yes, this helps a lot. High ISO is something that's important to me, as I want to be able to shoot where there's a lot of contrast. I'll take note of your recent misfortune, though. The frame rate doesn't bother me, as I have a 7D2, with 10fps, and a 70-200 f.28 II L lens. 7fps would actually be a good compromise for me in many situations. Thanks for your comments on the 24-105 f4. I do have reservations about that, as several reviewers I respect are not so enthusiastic about it, and state that the version 2 is not greatly differernt. There's a Sigma versio
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