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Duncan_Andison

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Everything posted by Duncan_Andison

  1. I've used both. The 55-210 was used when I had a Nex7. Loved the weight and size but there was a tendency to miss focus a lot, ended up with a lot of SoLD shots. It manually focused just fine. This may have been corrected by FW, both camera and lens but was one of the reasons I shifted from Sony To Fuji 3 years or so back. If it has, I'd love to hear as I would give it another go but if not, I'm not interested in adding lenses that can't be trusted 100% or increase work processing to correct/rescue photos.
  2. Interesting. Not sure whether to wait until the a6300 price comes right down or hang on for rather less time and buy an a6000. In the meantime the NEX is doing OK. "Nice glass" remains a problem for the Sony APS/C cameras - the company is obviously putting its resource into FF. I would like a better replacement for my 19mm Sigma lens, a half decent longer telephoto, and a really good quality walk around zoom, but none appear to have been forthcoming. An old, or not so old, ex rangefinder manual 20mm might be a possibility, but they don't come cheap! I use the FE lenses with the A6300, I don't have any APSC lenses at all. I think you can adapt Canon lenses to it but to be honest, I don't muck around adapting lenses. Prefer to use Sony ones for speed etc. A little run down... Sony Zeiss 16-35 works well as a 24-52 lens, sharp to the edges. Performs better at the long end on the A6300 than it does on the A7rii fast to focus and has IS. Sony 70-200 f/4 spends a lot of the time on the A6300 and focuses fast, I used it on a few bike ride events. Good IS built in. Sony 55 f/1.8 and the Batis 85 are both amazing lenses that perform as 85mm & 135mm on the A6300. The Batis has IS. The Loxia 21 is ok on it in terms of IQ but you don't have any stabilisation on the lens or camera, but at 21mm, not a massive problem. Sony Zeiss 35 f/2.8 makes for a very good 50mm/ish lens an no weight at all. It is tiny! Sony G 90mm macro extends the reach of the macro lens on the A6300 and performs really well but, I still tend to use it mainly on the A7rii. It has built in IS. The 55mm f/1.8 & 35mm f/2.8 are really worthwhile lenses for the A6300, even if you have no plans at all for going FF, amazing IQ. If I was you, I'd be tempted to leave it a little longer, let the problem of sensor shortages clear up (due to earthquakes) as it has pushed up the price of all their cameras, including the A6300. Differences between A6000 & A6300 as mentioned are mainly better AF speed and tracking, 4k video, EVF refresh rate, resolution and no blackout option plus, full metal body. The AF on the A6000 is supposed to be good so if you can live without the others, that will be a good option.
  3. I've got the 6300, very nice but I will probably change it for a A7iii when they come out, just for sensor consistency with the A7rii. Unless you need 4k video, fast AF with no blackouts on continuous focusing & high refresh rate, I think the A6000 will be a very good alternative, especially at that price! I have to admit, I've been well impressed with the AF speed with the A6300, impressive locking/tracking. That said, if you don't need that you won't miss it! Save the money and buy some nice glass to add to your collection!
  4. Making nice money from footage elsewhere. Glad I went for it, really boosts stills income.
  5. My first video project is an hour-long (or more) documentary intended for a wide audience via DVD (I like jumping in at deep ends), on a historical subject of local significance. It's written and presented by a friend so as the cameraman I don't have to worry too much about the content and instead I'm concentrating on image quality and visual appeal. Like others have said, I can't afford to splash out on expensive gear so I'm trying to make the most of the constraints of static camera equipment. One person who's seen clips of the film said it clearly showed my background as a still photographer, which doesn't surprise me as all the shots are statically filmed and any movement is within the frame. But I feel that trying to emulate motorised zooms, sliders or trolleys manually will inevitably give the film an amateurish look. Everyone who's seen bits of it says it's visually very appealing. One thing we've found over the year we've been shooting, which is relevant to your comment above, John, is that as we explore the local area for ideas and locations, we come across other smaller topics of great interest and add them to a list of short films we plan to do in the future. Many of the scenes we've shot, and would be shooting for future films, are ideal for being extracted as clips for sale through a library. In terms of equipment I've broken my limited-spend rule in only one area, and that's sound. The sound capabilities of a DSLR are pretty poor compared to its visual capabilities, and I invested in a couple of lapel mics (cheap at £20 a piece but good quality) and a Tascam DR60 external recorder. Alan An hour That will take a while to edit, process and grade! Just finished a 10min job for a bunch of lads doing a 24hour endurance bike ride from Newcastle Upon Tyne to Dunvegan Castle on the Isle of Skye. That took long enough. An hour.... dedication there!! Anyone who's interested, the exploits of the six riders is on my blog. Mental the lot of them!!
  6. It's obvious that it's about time I moved into the 21st century with my Internet service plan. I'm on it. Oh yeah. I uploaded 40 files the other day to a place that cannot be named and they averaged about 1.75gb each. A couple over 3gb and a few around 1gb but most in that mid range. Thankfully I have Virgin Medias 200mb sec service... sadly their upload is not 200mb/sec though to a few hours still!
  7. Well, I've been producing footage since the beginning of this year and was thinking of sending it in to Alamy..... but, as they don't want 4k I guess that counts them out. Personally, I shoot using Cine2 & Cine4 for a flatter image and then Edit & Grade in FCP X with Color Finale. No blown highlights and retains shadow detail. Did use Slog2/3 but prefer the lower ISO of Cine2/4.
  8. Quality .... oh I wish I could see their faces when they realise what they've done!!!!
  9. See this forum. How many avatars show the country? How many avatars show male/female? Apparently identity protection is regarded important. I don't care, but others might. When in a street, I take a picture of a house facade, it takes a few seconds before the owner rushes out for an explanation. I can assure you, photographing private property isn't appreciated, whether it's a house or a car. Cheers, Philippe +1 Its just showing a little respect, no point upsetting people when it's easy enough to avoid. If the image of a house is used for a story that the person who owned it didn't agree with, then it may cause problems. If it's possible to change house number / reg etc to make it less obvious then what's the harm. Unless the number is the picture ^^ private reg plate
  10. I used to be opted out....Where are the details for this? Couldn't see it under settings at all?!? Cheers
  11. It might be worth googling this issue. I did a quick search and found this at dpreview. There could be an issue with the 7dmkii and if there is, might be worth getting it back to Canon if it's under warranty! Edit, I presume you are running the latest Firmware? Canon release an update in 2015 correcting AF problems. Another forum discussing AF problems with the Canon 7dmkii. Hopefully there maybe some pointers out there as to the best course of action!
  12. I thought David had come back to the forums...... then I seen the 2014 thread date
  13. I upgraded a 4GB RAM 500GB disk 2012 MacBook Pro running Yosemite, to 8GB RAM, 1TB hybrid drive, El Capitan. It was a while ago now, but if I recall correctly I did it one step at a time, using instructions I found on the net. Step 1 - Opened the unit, upgraded the RAM from 4GB to 8GB. Closed up, checked everything still worked OK. Step 2 - Used Carbon Copy Cloner to copy my 500GB internal hard-disk onto new external Seagate Momentus 1TB Hybrid drive (in a USB disk caddy) and made bootable with recovery partition. (The hybrid drive is part SSD, part conventional HDD) Step 3 - Checked I could boot from new external 1TB drive whilst connected to USB port. Step 4 - Reopened the unit, removed the internal 500GB drive and fitted the 1TB drive. Step 5 - Proved system booted and ran OK. I seem to recall it took a disconcertingly long time to boot the first time whilst it "gets accustomed to" the new drive. I used the machine like this for a while to be sure everything was OK. Step 6 - In place upgrade from Yosemite to El Capitan. Again checked everything OK. Hope that helps. +1. This is more or less the same way I replaced an HDD with a SSD but on an iMac.
  14. It happens on standalone versions as well and it applies to all currency not just $'s. CS6 refused to edit images of full bank notes (sterling). Edit. If I remember correctly, there are dots/markers on notes that the adobe (and other software) are able to identify and when they do, the warning comes up! Very annoying! Link for EURion constellation. It was introduced late 1990's to stop photocopying. It is very likely that software may well be using this to identify notes. If you know where the marks are, you can obscure them (careful composition) and the image may well load correctly It only happens on an unedited image - if you edit in GIMP or maybe another software then it is possible, just done it, to open a full face USD in Photoshop and subsequently edit it. Cheers. So are you editing out the marks or just any type of small edit and save then it opens in PS? All i did was open, crop and save - I don't know how it alters the situation. I also changed the numbers but that was in Photoshop. The materials for the notes are real notes and one shot full face on. Excellent, thanks. I'll be working on some concept shots soon that will involve money so this will hopefully resolve some headaches!
  15. It happens on standalone versions as well and it applies to all currency not just $'s. CS6 refused to edit images of full bank notes (sterling). Edit. If I remember correctly, there are dots/markers on notes that the adobe (and other software) are able to identify and when they do, the warning comes up! Very annoying! Link for EURion constellation. It was introduced late 1990's to stop photocopying. It is very likely that software may well be using this to identify notes. If you know where the marks are, you can obscure them (careful composition) and the image may well load correctly It only happens on an unedited image - if you edit in GIMP or maybe another software then it is possible, just done it, to open a full face USD in Photoshop and subsequently edit it. Cheers. So are you editing out the marks or just any type of small edit and save then it opens in PS?
  16. It happens on standalone versions as well and it applies to all currency not just $'s. CS6 refused to edit images of full bank notes (sterling). Edit. If I remember correctly, there are dots/markers on notes that the adobe (and other software) are able to identify and when they do, the warning comes up! Very annoying! Link for EURion constellation. It was introduced late 1990's to stop photocopying. It is very likely that software may well be using this to identify notes. If you know where the marks are, you can obscure them (careful composition) and the image may well load correctly
  17. I came to the same conclusion and wrote it up for my blog: M-dash.com I am about to replace my 24in 1920x1200 monitors and realised at 4K on 27in I would not see individual pixels unless very close up. So I will go 2560x1440 and will save a fair bit of cash! Best way. I've tried the increase to 150-200% on high density pixel screens but it never looks the same as 100% on a standard pixel density screen. It just looks enlarged and not that pleasant. I'd always run a dual screen system in any case so it would be easy enough to have a 4k and a 2560x1440 screen but, I prefer to work on the images and see them the same way the majority of my clients will see them. Maybe in 2-5 years time when everyone is using them but for now, 2560x1440 is enough for work.
  18. The reason is that you've said you're using a 4k monitor. Because of the pixel density, you need to view at 200% to get the equivalent of 100% on a standard monitor. Hope this helps Ian D +1. Very true. It also applies to Retina screens. I use a 2560x1440 at 27inch and that is the max resolution I'd use at that size. Anything more and the pixel density increases and provides false sharpness. The reason is that you've said you're using a 4k monitor. Because of the pixel density, you need to view at 200% to get the equivalent of 100% on a standard monitor. Hope this helps Ian D That would be a frightening prospect for me. I think images look horrid at 200%. If there were underlying jaggies, wouldn't the higher res screen show them up even more? I must say, that 32" 4K screen has been a mixed blessing. 4k and retina screens are great to work with but not to QC with. I would stick to 2560x1400 resolution up to 27inch. Anything more and you will miss SoLD shots as well as over sharpening. Retina screens also high density pixels screens and cannot be trusted for QC work.
  19. Never had any problems with mold etc....no dropped cameras etc (touch wood). I use one of Peak Designs wrist straps that I can quickly attach to the camera before detaching it from the clip system so even if I stumble it isn't going anywhere. Just a case of establishing a system / workflow really.
  20. I carry two cameras no matter what the weather is doing. I use Peak Designs capture clip system to attach my cameras to the straps of my backpack, one wide the other telephoto. They also sell soft shell covers that fit neatly over the camera. To be honest, the cameras and lenses are weather resistant but this is belt and braces protection as I keep them out on the backpack straps no matter what the weather is doing. Between this and the Osprey Backpack I use.... took a few years of fine tuning to gain instant access to 16-200mm FL while keeping the gear secure and safe(ish)
  21. *SIGH* I have that same, apparently superb, BenQ panel....sitting in a box in my spare room for the last 2 months. Be super careful that your PC will be able to drive the full resolution of anything you buy. I thought I'd checked all the boxes - graphics card capability etc - before buying, but it turns out that despite the thing having HDMI connectors, only a Display port will actually give the full 2560. Which my laptop doesn't have, so I'm now into a complete system upgrade Err.... nope :-) I'm running mine at 2560x1440 via HDMI at the moment. Model number GL2760-t It maybe something to do with the computer settings. I know when I first set mine up it was via a thunderbolt connector but I damaged the cable so I put the HDMI one back on and it worked just fine. Make sure everything is setup ok. I've just copied the settings from mine to see if it will help. Picture mode - Overscan = Off Display Mode = Full System - HDMI Auto Switch = On System Information = 2560x1440@60fps Both my Macbook Pro and my Mac Pro both work fine with these settings. Hope this helps Edit. Also make sure HDMI is selected in "Input Mode" I'm sure it will be but just in case.
  22. I've been using one of BenQ's 27inc 2560x1440 IPS panels with a matte screen and the quality is excellent for the price. The iMac screens (glossy) used to do my head in, which is why I used to use my MacBook Pro connected to a 27 inch screen (Mac Pro now due to 4k video).
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