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Everything posted by dlmphotog

  1. Wet cleaning is not a spooky mystery that can only be done by a trained professional off site for a cost. It's a skill and like any skill it takes time to develop. IMHO you would have to work very hard and disregard directions to actually damage your camera. Take your time, take a break, repeat until clean and don't stress (to much) as the sensor is safe behind it's protective cover glass. Like a tradesman that keeps his/hers tools sharp, clean and in good working order.
  2. It sounds like it was a smear/smug left on the sensor cover glass by the solution. This has happen to me. I had to use entire box of sensor swabs one time and they are not cheap but I did get the sensor cover glass clean. I understand that wet cleaning is not for everyone and we all have to decide whats best for ourselves and our own comfort level.
  3. I use a Festool CT Mini shop vac set on it's lowest power, very carefully...
  4. I think every serious photographer should have the skills and proper tools to wet clean their own sensor. There is clear glass over the sensor so your not "touching" the actual sensor. The product recommended by most camera manufacturers is photosol Eclipse solution and sensor swabs. Now the weird part, I like using a HEPA vacuum/small shop vac on lowest power setting when cleaning my cameras and lenses, sucks out the dust rather than blowing it around. 🤔
  5. Jan, Sorry I misunderstood your question. I do not know how to do what you want online. I do all my captioning/key-wording off-line using a word processor then cut and paste the captions/keywords into the RAW file metadata using Adobe Bridge. When I upload, long captions automatically end up in Additional info but I do have to lookout for truncated captions and word fragments. I feel very strongly that the best practice is to spend your time captioning and key-wording the source of the image, be that a RAW file or JPEG. This metadata along with your contact info and copyright notice stays with your image no matter where it "goes" and you only have to do it once. Hope this helps, David L. Moore, DLM-Photog
  6. Jan, When the Caption text is past the 150 charter limit it automatically carries over to Additional info field where the entire Caption is displayed. With long captions I find I need to truncate the Caption at a logical place so I don't have word fragments or incomplete locations. All the KEY words from the Caption should be in the Tag (keyword) field anyway so a truncated Caption is not good but not a hindrance to buyers finding your images.
  7. Putting a copyright notice in your metadata is not the same as registering your images with the US copyright office. I forget the details but copyright infringement of registered images offers the photographer higher compensation for the infringement. You can duckduckgo the details... I'm a BIG advocate for putting as much metadata onto your RAW files as practical. Besides the Alamy required fields of Description and Keywords/Tags each of your RAW images should also have your contact info and copyright notice. Unfortunately US copyright office has made registering images more tedious and costly. You can only register 750 images at a time for a cost of $55.00. You also need to make an Excel spreadsheet with the names of the images... I'm sure there are online resources for a step by step walk through of the process. Even with all the hassle and cost I always register my images. Hope this helps, David
  8. Regardless of what software solution you choose I think it is VERY importation to have as much metadata attached to your RAW files as practical. The RAW file is the source for all processed images so having the metadata inputted at the beginning saves you from needless redundant tasks later on. As for the metadata I first start by inputting my contact info (name, address, phone, web site, email) and copyright notice. With Adobe Bridge this can be done with a saved metadata template and done in batches. The two must have fields for Alamy are the Description and Keywords (Tags) fields. As far as I know these are the only two fields Alamy uses. But I also include a title and origin info such as city, state/province and country. This is more for finding/sorting images in my DAM Hope this helps, David
  9. I would go with your gut feeling and donate the images to a worthy cause. Don't worry to much image theft, its going to happen. I register my images with the US copyright office and think of documented commercial image theft as an income opportunity 😀 I would draw up a simple image usage rights, terms and conditions paperwork spelling out what the donated images can be used for (advertising, editorial...) for how long, you retain the copyright to the images and that the images can NOT be sold or licensed to anyone. Hope this helps,
  10. Back to Ireland, one of my favorite places!
  11. I got this shot while waiting to pick up my Japanese rail pass, looks like a staged shot...
  12. IMHO, Unless you have an offsite backup you are not backing up at all... I use "Just a Stack of HDs" methodology, meaning I clone each on my 9 HD's and SSD's drives (not all images) on to hard disks that I store in a padded metal watertight surplus 50 cal ammo can. I have three sets of these that I rotate with one set always at my wife's office. I rotate them about once every three months. My Blu-ray archive is onsite, something I need to fix. I have read of cloud storage companies going belly up with subscribers losing their data, rare for sure but something to worry about. another factor with cloud storage is the time and bandwidth to upload gigabytes of data. Hope this helps,
  13. Nio-mon two-story gate is the main entrance of Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kiyomizu, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Honshu, Japan Male performers carrying the Seiryu blue dragon on the stone steps of the Sai-mon West gate during the Seiryu-e Festival, Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kiyomizu, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Honshu, Japan Restaurants along the Pontocho overlooking the Kamogawa River at dusk, Kashiwayacho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, Honshu, Japan
  14. When you spend countless hours looking at a computer monitor... When your mood is effected by your Alamy Measures CTR...
  15. Wim, Thank you for the info on mounting a filter to the RX100. The size of the RX100 is just right. I still would like to see a tube that encapsulates the telescoping elements of the lens as this is the biggest point of failure on these types of cameras. Sure it would add to the size, but for the protection I would take the trade off. A polarizing filter is the only filter that can not be duplicated in post. A polarizing filter does more the darken the sky it also saturates the image by removing glare/reflections/haze. David
  16. Congratulations! Job well done! I remember that milestone... took the wife out to dinner.
  17. Thomas, Gambo makes solid kit, I used their old gear head back in the day with a 4x5, it worked well and was rock solid. The PCH looks very interesting. What camera are you using it for? Medium format? Please lets us know what you think about if you get it.
  18. Sorry to hear about your bad experience with the Lumix LX3. For me the LX3 is the perfect size for backpacking and it has a filter adapter ring so I can use a polarizer filter, a must have. Granted I only use the LX3 on sunny days but once you profile the sensor using a Color Checker the output is quite good. I have many sales with the LX3 here on Alamy. I have been looking for a replacement for the LX3, but all the very compact cameras don't have a filter adapter ring to mount a polarizer filter and protect the telescoping lens elements. I can highly recommend the Fujifilm X100 now replaced by the X100F. A fixed focal 35mm equivalent FOV with very nice analog controls and great user interface.
  19. Sorry I have no experience with Cambo PCH gearhead but that won't stop me from sharing my opinion... 🤣 If you are looking for a specialized geared head for architecture work I can highly recommend the Arca-Swiss C1 Cube Geared Head with the Arca-Type Flip-Lock Quick Release. Down side is it does not do verticals very easily, you need and L-plate for your camera for easy verticals, it is slow but VERY precise. Another plus is it is very compact, probably not the best do it all geared head but for getting the camera level and plum it's the best... IMHO Hope this helps,
  20. Been looking at everyone's Instagram images, shout out to everyone who shared. lots of great images!
  21. I like your "blury" shots, very emotive.
  22. https://www.instagram.com/vibbily/ @vibbily Dedicated to my stock photography
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