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Posts posted by JamesH

  1. 1 hour ago, Trevor Chriss said:

    How would Alamy know at QC stage where something was photographed? Only if tagged, but I don't tag until after QC, I know many do tag before, pretty sure I am not alone.

    In any case, this would surely slow the QC process if all tags had to be read.


    I saw my views on this has created a minor debate. I forget that on Alamy you don't apply the releases until after clearing QC so there would be no way to check.


    BTW, as an aside, a lot of us use reverse image searches for our images, these frequently show similar images and can guesstimate what it is you photographed. I can upload a photo of a cat and it knows it is a cat. Its not improbable for that to be used in an automated fashion to screen images. A few video sites I upload to process videos and suggest tags already. The technology is already available to read image data and extrapolate what it is, even without tags.


    Anyway, thanks for clarification.

  2. 3 minutes ago, geogphotos said:


    QC doesn't check anything apart from the technical quality of the image = Quality Control


    It doesn't do anything else apart from check that. How could the person possibly know what the photographer should know.


    I see we will go round in circles on this. Yes the photographer should know, but the stock agency should have a little knowledge of well known off limits areas.

  3. 2 minutes ago, geogphotos said:


    It is the contributors' responsibility to know that what they upload is allowed. Alamy can't possibly know the rules everywhere. So just because lots of other people have done something does not mean that Alamy has approved what they have done.


    You know the rules. Your decision and your responsibility.


    I do realise that, but I would have thought that going through QC there would be a list of main landmarks that are off limits.


    Anyway, I've not uploaded any from there personally due to the restriction.

  4. Paulette, I don't know Octavios secret but personally in Lightroom in Develop > Effects module I find adding 10 - 20 to Dehaze is a quick way to get some more punch to an image, depending on subject.


    Of course that's a quick fix, if you have the time, patience and storage space you could export to Nik (free Google imaging product) and try and few settings. I use it for landscapes, it can be like peeling back a veil on an image. The best process is to export to Photoshop and work in various layers and masks with the Nik filters,  be careful with skies, my first submission was rejected here as a Nik filter very slightly pixelated the sky (hence work in layers and masks).


    There are a lot of Youtube videos on these, one of my favourite photographers recently did a workflow guide. He has a few other videos that may interest, even if they aren't on subjects you like you can pick up tips.



  5. I've always just used sRGB as for the most part that is what everyone uses. AdobeRGB is the more accurate with a wider colour gamut but unless the end to end process is done in AdobeRGB you may run in to problems. Colours will look wrong when viewing AdobeRGB files on sRGB monitors.


    I am by no means a colour expert but the safest and trouble free method is to use sRGB.


    As for Lightroom, I export at 90 quality and 300dpi for Alamy at whatever resolution the image is.

    • Like 1
  6. 3 hours ago, Matt Limb said:


    They are worth the investment, helped me with a few 1/30 second exposures on a long lens 


    Yes, there are days I have cursed myself for not investing in any, mainly my telephoto lenses, but I try and make do, I admit I have probably lost a few images due to it.

    3 hours ago, hdh said:

    That 50 +/- MPix is unforgiving, I fully agree, but as James says further up, one fully adopts to it. 

    Also recommend to use the sharpest lenses available, I tend and prefer now to use prime lenses (35, 50 and 80).


    As for VR (or IS / OS, ...) keep in mind that this is great for a handheld shot, once mounted on a tripod the results are usually sharper when it is switched off. 

    Albeit I admit personal experience is with the Sigma 120-300 only - but heard similar advise for other lenses.


    Rule of thumb to equate shutter speed to 1 over focal length does not hold for me anymore. 

    Best results I get with 1 over three to four times focal length and when held steadily going down to 1 over 2 times focal length. 


    ISO is also not part of the strength of high megapix's, I do not go beyond 1.600.  


    But said all this, the quality of a tag sharp full frame image is second to none and also it gives additional cropping possibilities that more than make up for these nuisances.

    I am not a Nkon fan though, but that is philosophical, as for the question, or doubt I should say; This is probably not too much for stock but comes down to the individual preferences at the end. Are you willing to trade the nuisances for the gain? 



    I have usually gone for primes, the only two zooms I have are the 18-35mm and an older 80-200mm. The 80-200mm has its "characteristics" shall we say but is still capable on the D800. I bought a few older AIS lenses which are very nice and sharp, and apart from manual focusing they meter fine and can work in Aperture priority without issue.


    Yes always turn off VR on a tripod, it will work against you otherwise.


    I also don't venture far beyond ISO 1600, a few night shots up to 6400 but I usually take a longer lower ISO foreground shot if it's landscapes.


    When you get the shot right seeing all that detail on the screen is rewarding.

  7. You can still use DX lenses on FX, either with vignette on full frame, or you can use the crop modes in the camera to mitigate it slightly. You will have to find out if the camera will out resolve those DX lenses though.


    Depends what you shoot, I love the high MP for landscapes, wildlife, the extra reach of DX is nice to have for sports and smaller animals etc. Even with 36mp I like to do multi shot panoramas, I'm hoping that some buyers will want those larger dimension images for certain uses.


    The biggest pain is the storage cost and increased processing times, Lightroom definitely ambles along at times, editing my backup D3300 files you can tell the difference in time.

  8. 20 minutes ago, NYCat said:


    Kibera has been in the news a lot because of the fear of violence there after Kenya's election. Once again, the loser has refused to accept the result. I was speaking with an African woman recently about their difficulties with their leaders. It breaks my heart.  Such a beautiful continent and so many sweet people.




    Yes, but this happens every election, it was relatively trouble free this year but there is always tensions between the various tribes. Odinga has lost several times. Unfortunately not enough really gets done for the average person in Kenya, reliance on foreign aid and charities etc seems common. I've been to several of the city slums, I think everyone should visit one at least once in their lives to gain some perspective. I could go on but who knows who reads these posts :-)


    The image licensed from 1st July in South America, may have been election related but hard to say.

  9. When I got my D800 it was a learning curve, very unforgiving of camera shake or too low shutter speeds, but I've adapted to it. I did buy it primarily for landscapes where it excels (for 35mm). Even on a travel tripod in windy conditions it would show shake, your image taking process needs to be aware of it.


    The one weakness I have with the D800 is the relatively low FPS for sports and wildlife, the D850 seems to be able to go to 9FPS which is good.

  10. On 8/22/2017 at 10:12, Graham said:

    I do not think that in-camera GPS is very accurate. It's fine to give a general idea where the picture was taken, but it is not accurate enough  to be useful for automatic inclusion in the map location data. I recently went to Hungary to photograph birds from hides. Every shot from any particular shoot was taken from exactly the same spot in the hide, yet the Lightroom mapping module shows the images apparently scattered over probably several hundred metres!  Same for both my cameras, the Canon 1DXII and 5DIV. I use it only to give me a general idea of where the photo was taken, such as from a moving vehicle such as a train, where otherwise I might not be very sure where I was at the time. 




    I dont have inbuilt GPS on my SLRs, I probably wouldn't use it as they do use a fair amount of battery. Also as you mentioned, they aren't that accurate. If I need to record where I've been then I usually just take a phone camera shot which has GPS in.

  11. 6 minutes ago, spacecadet said:

    I don't think it ever has.

    Anyway, how could it know the name of a place from the GPS?






    #AIM top tip: If there's GPS information embedded in the IPTC of an image, this will be imported as a location to the location field in AIM.



    For the past few years whenever I remember to add photos to the LR map I have but I've never seen places use it.


    I imagine that AIM, which uses Google Maps, can extrapolate the GPS co-ordinates from the file to a location, and then show this as what it thinks is the correct name for the place, if it has one. Or at least that is what should happen. It doesn't really matter if their is no name as such for the location, it should at least just drop the marker pin to the embedded co-ordinates.


    All online maps are are co-ordinates and the background software translates that to locations and navigation imagery etc.

    • Upvote 1
  12. My D800 is at times a nightmare for dust spots, but it's a case of preparation, if I get lazy and not clean the sensor before a trip or shoot I can only blame myself. Changing lens frequently when out in dusty or windy places usually does it.


    I am a stickler for cleaning dust spots in LR or PS, I use the "visualise spots" in Lightroom. Alternatively I used to just push Contrast and Clarity to 100% and that showed most spots.


    I bought a "sensor gel stick" which is very fast to clean it. No more liquids and pads, just dab round the sensor and 99% of the dust is gone in a minute. My stick has lasted me years, so the initial cost isn't so bad. Now I can just quickly clean before heading somewhere.

  13. A quick question, when I upload to Alamy I usually don't remove the copyright field in the EXIF data. Is this stripped from the images when they are purchased? I can think of a few privacy issues that may cause if someone was able to get hold of it (say if you were photographing a sensitive subject). It hadn't really crossed my mind previously but was something I wanted to confirm.





  14. 32 minutes ago, txoko said:

    After 1200 uploads, still no sells. Neither zooms, and slow CTR. It seems it is explained by the low variety of my portfolio, the poor tagging and the kind of photography, somehow no "UK based".

    Hope the first one comes in a short term.

    As mentioned, your keywords need work. I picked the elephant painting and no keywords for elephant or painting. You need to spend time going through all your images and keyword correctly.

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