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DarkSlide

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Everything posted by DarkSlide

  1. Thanks for all the answers guys and girls. It really helps. D.
  2. So as long as you get one important feature in focus it should pass. Thanks Betty.
  3. This is what I'm trying to establish. Maybe I wasn't clear what kind of shot I was thinking of doing, my fault. If you are taking a shot of something ,say a sauce bottle or a tin of soup, stood up ,square on, camera parallel to subject, the brand name is near the top. do you aim to get the brand name in focus or aim for the centre of subject.
  4. Its a Sigma 70mm macro f2.8. I'm using it on a 5D Mk3. Is it necessary to get everything in focus?
  5. Just a thought, when you focus on a product shot where is the best place to focus? I’m fairly new to this kind of thing and I’m wondering if you have some kind of pack shot to do and the brand name is off-centre, sometimes right at the top left hand corner, do you focus on the brand name or at the center of the subject? I’m shooting with a 70mm macro at F11-F13 full-frame, and close up, getting everything in focus is not an option. I’ve tried F16 but experience diffraction. Appreciate any comments.
  6. Thanks for the input guys and girls. Appreciate it. D
  7. I have been ticking the Chromatic Aberration removal box and this removes the normal red/green. It's the purple and blue I have the trouble with. Interesting to note that some members simply bin the images. Thanks to all for the replies up to now. D.
  8. I’m experiencing some particularly bad purple/blue fringing with some images, mainly green foliage against sky areas. Have tried DPP and LR6. When I use the Fringe Colour Selector tool in LR and click on the fringe it removes it but replaces it with a very much larger light yellow fringe. I assume it’s probably meant to be grey, but I think it’s my monitor. It’s similar in effect to colour blurring fringes out. I click on this and it reduces in size with a little tweaking but doesn’t disappear completely. I am a relative newcomer to LR, am I doing something wrong? Gear used 5D Mk2, 24-105 f4 IS (older version). Monitor is Dell Ultra HD 27”. Apologies if this has been asked before but I couldn’t find this specific problem on the forum. Thanks in advance for any replies.
  9. Thanks for the reply MDM. The camera producing the 60.2 Mb files is a 5D Mk2 which I don't have a problem with. The camera creating NEFs is as you rightly said is a D800e. Levels does work in 16 bit in elements and for my Canon files I use DPP. I have only just recently upgraded to a computer that will run LR, maybe I'll give it a try with respect to Nikon files. I'm interested to know why I should not use the highest quality the camera will produce when I paid the extra for the "E" version. Again thanks. D
  10. I am using elements 8 and have never noticed a warning triangle. Can you help me as to where it might be?
  11. Has anyone noticed how Nikon Raw file histograms, in levels, don’t behave in the same way as Canon ones in PS? I’ve always managed to adjust Canon files significantly in levels, so long as I do it in 16bit, without major damage to the histogram. Nikon ones however seriously toothcomb and exhibit complete gaps (even in 16bit) with only the slightest adjustment in PS resulting in exposures at the time of capture having to be more precise. Is this something anyone has noticed, as well as me, or do most people not worry about the way a histogram looks after processing? I was led to believe Alamy likes smooth histos. because a seriously toothcombed one means image damage. All my files are shot highest quality raw uncompressed. Any comments greatly appreciated.
  12. Just out of interest should your backgrounds be 255 or 250,245 etc.?
  13. Thanks for all the replies, they really helped. D.
  14. But will they fail a white background that doesn't colour balance exactly?
  15. I’ve been reading Kenny J’s post from 23.12.15. regarding white background shots with a slight bluish tint. It has made me think about my experience with the type of background used in cubelites,being very patchy as regards colour balance anyway. I can never get them to register say,250/250/250 all over. There are areas that are 250/250/249 or similar. Is this ok for submission? Or do they have to be 250/250/250 or 255/255/255 throughout? Would I be better with coloured backgrounds. Do they sell? I only have PSE so no pen tool to isolate backgrounds, and I find the magic wand too imprecise especially when there is white in the subject matter.
  16. Thanks for the replies Betty and space cadet. I will try the adjustment brush.
  17. Does anyone find luminance noise a problem with this camera due to the high pixel count. I find it most noticeable with slight underexposure. In your experience do forum members use any amount of luminance noise reduction for submission with this or indeed any other camera. I’ve only ever used chrominance NR up to now with other cameras. I use DPP or LR for processing and I’ve tried small amounts of lum. NR on the 5DSr and it doesn’t seem to impact too much on IQ (although I haven’t submitted these images.) Do the forum find this to be a legitimate processing step in small quantities. Any comments greatly appreciated.
  18. Thanks to all for the advice, I've just been on to Nikon again. We'll see what happens.
  19. Absolutely-using a D800E but had similar results with a D90. Also to dd-same cameras same settings. Thanks to both for replying.
  20. I'm having problems deciding whether my Nikon 24-70mm 2.8G is slightly de-centered or not, having sent it back to Nikon twice for repair with varying results. 1st. time, sent it back from brand new with quite noticeable de-centering softness on RHS. 2nd. time back very soft both sides. Now it seems slightly soft LHS (best it's been). All test pictures shot of buildings at distance but not infinity, 24mm f 2.8-f 8 with best results at f 8. Trying to decide whether to send it back for a third time, or am I expecting too much.
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