Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Klinger

  1. I had done some test uploads, single images, to see if they passed. Stupid... but anyway, I knew that one image would be looked at closer. Before that I had on rejection in ten years. After testing a couple times and they failed, my rank dropped. I don't know if it was more batches or more images, but I normally only send up 5 - 10 at a time. It took nearly no time to return to 3 stars. So lets say, five batches and I was back. Since then I have been doing what I do, process and upload what I have ready, at the time. I don't play games, trying to guess what the system will do. So some are 10 and a couple 32, recently. Not saying I know anything or have any conclusion about whether it's pictures or batches, but I do know that recovery is pretty fast, not like people are secured to the dungeon walls for long periods of slow review torture. 😉 I don't see 5 stars, never have, I don't know if there are people that see 5 and some aren't filled. I have three all three are solid. Maybe someone can expand on that? Is there anyone with four stars? Is the total number of images, possibly related to the 5 stars? Just wondering why some people see that and others still show three. What does this mean, from a different thread: "new approach to QC rank " is that just the stars or is there something else.
  2. Technology sure has improved. CanoScan FS 4000 looks reasonable priced compared to the Nikon I bought years ago. Maybe that's another reason I was disappointed, and I need to go back and start over. My Nikon Coolscan(s) are SCSI and wasn't that impressive. Older technology. Good that geogphotos brought this up, I had shelved any efforts to copy my old slides. I have the lens and holder and rings and bellows... time to try again. Should that fail, a dedicated scanner would be next.
  3. I meant using the slide copier that mounts on a camera, and I should qualify, I used Fujichrome and Ekatchrome, someone who used a better slower speed, higher quality slide film, may have better results. The examples posted here look far better than mine. The dust and any imperfections are also amplified. I'm surprised that anyone recommends a flatbed over a single slide scanner. Years ago, that was the last choice. Times have changed. I still advocate that if someone is going into slide scanning, that they send out their ten very best (or five?) and see what they get from a professional service, which will be the best they can expect from their personal old slides. And then see what they think of that, before diving into buying a bellows, lens (possibly) copier holder and others bits and pieces, to see if they like what they get. Nice find, I want one of those! I'm using extension tubes as it is. The bellows would be more adjustable. Yes, I did some 2 1/4 slides that way and had good results, although nothing I would use for stock, they are family photos and turned out quite well. GIGO = if the slides aren't the highest possible quality to start with, the results aren't going to be up to digital quality. I'm disappointed that my old slides look faded, soft, and lacking color, compared to what I can shoot now with a simple DSLR. Interesting results, and the slide duplicators I found when I searched Ohnar zoom slide duplicator are interesting and they look very adaptable. This leads me to starting over with a better lens and what I have, instead of the kit lens that was just, trying out for how does that look?
  4. I would recommend not copying slides, because you will be disappointed as your digital images are so good. What I mean is, the slides will look out of focus, soft, faded colors. That's from going back to slides I took for 40 years with SLRs. To make copies I tried Nikon Coolscan scanners, other single slide scanners (no flatbeds) and a slide copier on my Canon. Your results may be better. 😉 Real simple, great looking slides may look like too soft images after you spend the time and money, trying to use a copier or scan. You might consider this. Take the best four slides to a professional, and pay to have them scanned, in high resolution. See what you think after that. For $2.00 a slide (a guess), you pay someone with the best equipment to make your test scans. Now to the answer, of course there's a Canon slide copier. Who would think that only Nikon makes such a device? In fact, with a little bit of adapting, there are numerous slide duplicators. Pretty much nothing more than a bellows and a slide holder, with a frosted glass to diffuse the light. But there are also aftermarket which could be adapted. Do you use eBay? "slide duplicator" This one was made in the days of FD, it mounts on the filter threads, which means any camera. I just happened to have a 28-80 on it for zoom, you could use a prime or better zoom lens, to crop. Internal focusing lens would be much better. The important part to be careful about when buying is the adapter ring. Without that, you have a duplicator and no way to attach a camera. Then you'll need step up rings to get to the right filter threading for your lens. Advantage of a slide duplicator is, you get a nice high resolution image, from your own camera, whatever size and resolution that may be.
  5. This is true and humor, some will recognize the friends of Plop and Shoot. There was a forum person elsewhere who was being critical of someone else, called his work "Plop and Shoot", which is actually correct, and not as derogatory as intended. I belong to that group of food photographers, I'm not a true or real foodie. Not saying that I haven't made, ordered or prepared a shot, designing in advance. But I also have more now where I make the meal, shoot it and eat before it's cold. 😎 I'm not as good as the guy who does that with an on camera flash, I have a table with lighting, flip the switch, take the shot, there's usually a camera already mounted and ready on my copy stand. It's possible sometimes to over think something simple, and of course the best shots are going to be what the preceding messages suggest, local food, natural light, staged, dressed, well designed Etc. And then there's Plop and Shoot for anyone with an eye and a desire to eat what they photograph while it's fresh and ready. I have fun making photos and make the experience enjoyable, entertaining, creative and not work. I always have, no matter how important or pressing the events or hire. This one was not a paid shoot, and isn't going anywhere, but it made me happy... right before I had breakfast. Nice lighting test for the ugliest little plate I've ever had the misguided decision to buy at a resale shop. Maybe I can change with the lighting, but my ultimate advice for food photos is, never use a small square green plate! 😉
  6. Yes, that's why I changed one image from RF to RM 😎 And yes, that's when I looked after the update and excluded RF images, the second time I took notes. I'm pretty much the same relative place that I was in 200? (except I had hundreds of RM images and a different one for the BHZ) But the question remains, if new people and everyone without "enough sales" is median, who's first and who's last of those. There have to be thousands of people in that group. I'm happy where I am. In some searches I'm first for the specific keywords, and then every 19 or less after that. Others I'm above the fold, so I know I'm getting seen. Aside from my scenic shots, I have some very specific subjects or people, which have a very limited interest to the general public. No complaints.
  7. Nice of you to post that. I had asked years ago and James (the other James) wrote back the same information, and added, "you don't have enough sales to be ranked yet" which leaves me still wondering, how many is enough? With the new proper BHZ image, RM and it's my only RM image at this point, I'll make a note and watch. There's still the logical problem of, when someone new joins, with a median rank, will they be ahead or behind me? We can't all be exactly the same? The image changes showed the next day, by the way. I'm honestly not that concerned with rank. Images speak for themselves and if someone is searching for more specific content, like I upload most of the time, I'll be found. If they are searching for some subject that there are tens of thousands, I'm not really in the running anyway. Note: as promised, #30 on page 15 of 32 pages. Right where I'd expect, somewhere near the middle. 3131 images appeared for BHZ RM only.
  8. Answers: 1) One 2) It depends on the sale, license and commission rate. a) If a distributor makes the sale, we get 50% of the 50% of what's left, shared equally with Alamy, for an exclusive image. b) If Alamy sells the license, for an exclusive image, we get 50% of that if non-exclusive content substitute 40% for our share above If you were looking for a number = impossible to predict, mine have varied from single dollars and cents to hundreds of dollars.
  9. I'd want to try a different way of putting the keyword issues, which might make more sense for your large effort. It's easier to fix something in advance than to go back and fix them after. Easier to find the sets and review. One of the quotes you might appreciate that applies to the situation is this. "Why is there always enough time to fix things later, than there is to do it right now?" 😀 The reality is that taking the time to do things right the first time will, in the long run, take significantly less time and result in a higher quality product, and less effort... than it does to do things over. I find it easier to edit before upload, so that data is always correct, within the IPTC data of an image. I know many of us have different views and personal opinions of keywords, which seems to trickle over into similar images. Here's mine, take them or leave, just adding to the conversation. I only use words that are prominent in the image, and specific words that apply. I might add a conceptual word here and there. With only obvious keywords, I won't get as many wrong hits. I don't expect someone looking for a whale to download my image of a whale, just because they saw it, if I had an inadvertent keyword included. Or of course for some people, who spam up their keywords with irrelevant, hoping for views. I'm like others here, I only select the best of a shoot to upload. Filler is just "I have more images" which doesn't directly relate to more sales. I try to pick only the best to edit and upload. I think that in rough numbers only 5% of what I shoot for stock, ever gets edited and uploaded. Sometimes, a small project, one shot is all. I admit I am a minimalist when it comes to keywords and image numbers. Doesn't mean I insist I am perfect or 100% correct, just that that's the way I perceive the system at Alamy to work best. Less is more 😉
  10. And thank you to all who answered, mine just passed as well. I guess I was just being nervous and forgot that weekends don't count as days. 😉 Now I can start another batch. I used to upload 100-200 at a time, now I'm more conservative on what I upload, or more selective I should say.
  11. They are Editorial Only and licensed as RF elsewhere, (also for editorial use only) which means I can't have mixed licenses available for the same images. Why do you say they can't be RF? That's a license not a use. Can you explain that please? Back on topic, I marked one image RM, now I need to wait to see where I am, properly RM.
  12. I was searching, as I forgot how that worked. I hope I'm not failing QC, because a new batch is four days now. I hesitate to upload new, until I see what happened to that one. One fail all fail, and I think in the past, that means, they take much longer to show the results, as a small punishment. Or do reviews vary from one day to five days for Editorial? Also in case someone runs into this older thread, the failed image is moved to the front of the list, which makes it easy to find. That's how to ID which one failed.
  13. I asked once and the answer from Alamy was, "you haven't sold enough to be ranked..." so along with the intro information, I should be around the middle. Of course I asked that question six years ago, and I don't want to be a nag, but we all start around the middle. I wonder if I should assume that some people have somehow fallen below me? That would be difficult? 😉 When I do look, I'm always amused not only at the quality and diversity of images, but some of the crazy funny ones that people have selected. I'm way too normal, mine is just a personality shot of a celebrity. I picked it because it was bright yellow, on checkered black and white background, and made finding myself, in the mass of scenic and nice multi-colored images, easier. So if anyone knows how many one needs to sell, to be ranked, that would be interesting? Haven't looked in years and when I did, I think I'm where I belong. Oh just reading the thread, RM only, I forgot. I think I may have changed all my images to RF. I'll need to update one to play.
  14. I don't know mine and after ten years with Alamy, I decided it just doesn't mean anything, unless someone just likes numbers. I have sales with no zooms, and many zooms with no sales. Someone not measured in the first case and some other photo or image was better in the second. I suppose zooms with no sales, could be a message? Or many many zooms, might tell me, make more like that. Right! I remember people asking years ago, how many views on average, before the image gets a sale. Same to me, just numbers and curiosity, I don't see a statistical relevance. Like how many images do I need to make $$$? What are the images, not how many. Call me a stick in the mud, but none of those numbers mean anything. 🤐
  15. Correct AWB changes from camera to camera and it may not be accurate. Different lenses will be different and effect the color. That's the optics and electronics. You and others who mention this are 100% correct. My point is, that the filter on a specific camera will make no difference as AWB makes all filters and lenses the same, on that same camera. Also yes, I adjust after. I was just referring to filters as that was the question. Just in reference to a filter... 😉 they make no difference in the color using AWB. Thanks for the thoughts on grey card. I don't use one, (not often, only indoors) that's why I was wondering. I can understand why I wouldn't want to use on early morning or late afternoon. Mostly a hypothetical. Again I use AWB and fix later. As a note, I set the camera to incandescent doing night skies, because I like the results much better. Other than that, I'm usually set to AWB. And true Allan Bell: "Dispense with the UV filters and buy the totally clear digital protection filters if you still need something to protect the front element." Since I shoot AWB and it doesn't matter if I have a haze, UV, Skylight or something else, I don't find any reason to be concerned. However if I did, like some do, I think he's got the simple answer. Buy clear glass. I suppose it's worth adding since I'm in favor of filters, don't buy cheap plastic junk, invest in a good quality glass filter. That's a whole new discussion, because they do vary quite a bit, and the cheap ones you get what you pay for. But there another mine field in the middle and high end as some are made by the same company, under private label, and you could be paying for a brand name. Add to that, some well known names, might not be as good as others.
  16. I read the links, interesting. I'm not on a mission and I only own one full frame camera, a 1DsII that I got used. Nice. Most of the time it sits at home in a bag, I like my crop cameras better. But, I'm going way off... If someone uses AWB then the filter does nothing to the color. Something to put in the back of your mind. I have used a 25B (if I remember right)? Anyways, as a window on an outdoor box. The filter was a buck from one of those bins you might find at a camera store. My "camera in a box" project I wanted at least some nice glass in front of the camera lens? So I bought the biggest one in the box, 85mm, it's some kind of dark red. Lilly and tulip timelapse, photo bombed by a bunny. The photos were shot with a 20-D and they look just like daylight, because AWB adjusts. Isn't digital wonderful? Except when I want a nice Sunset that's got all kinds of subtle pastel colors, which I have to recreate in edit. 😖 Not sure if this is true with a grey card? Anyone? Now if someone uses manual settings, then true, filters are not all the same.
  17. Oh that's easy, I just learned how to drag and drop an image into a post. I was trying all kinds of url copy, links and there it was, open another window, go to the image, drag and drop. How nice is that? Just a note, when I dropped the image, it covered the text I had typed, until I saved the message. Then it showed. Of course I had just finished typing everything a second time. 😉 Meanwhile, late to the blurred image party and not so blurred, but it is selective focus of sorts. Panning at night, under the lights, checkered flag. And for those of you with sharp eyes, yes that's a yellow/checker for Ana Beatriz, winner of the race 😎
  18. Seems I've seen this question before? 😀 In the end, it's just my opinion, everyone decides on their own. None of these guys have UV filters. LOL
  19. I have a calculator on my desk, I look at the JPEG photo dimensions, multiple the # x # and there it is in Megapixels. 😎 When I started in photography I came up with a way to remember f stops were numbers that... I decided the F stood for Fraction. Fractions, always have a larger number for a small piece or portion. Little did I know 60 years ago, that I was actually right. The f stop number is a fraction of the focal length which tells you the size of the aperture.
  20. Along the same lines: " However, images that are from the same shoot, but shot from a different angle or the model is posing differently, is considered a different image and can be marked as exclusive if that particular shot is not available elsewhere. " Not a crop, shot from a different angle, and POV, is not the same and I can mark it Exclusive? But it is the same subject at the same event. I'm not interested in balancing on a fine line. If the answer is no, then I won't mark them exclusive. Easy enough to do nothing.
  21. Me neither with one exception, I use an artists name for motorsports, that matches what I use for all racing photos, in all publications and agencies, and my real name for all other photos. If someone is looking for a race car, I don't think they would be interested in a scenic panorama as also by this artist. After that, I've never seen any use or benefit and I think people who have spotted potential disadvantages are also correct.
  22. Since some think this is only about pinpoint sharpness, I'll answer, my opinion, the filter doesn't hurt the sharpness. If you are look at 100% and try to find flaws, there might be something. I'd ask myself, how much does it actually effect a large image, in normal viewing? Depending on the environment you work in and what might get thrown at you, dust, dirt, rocks, water, Etc. another lens saved, I think it was the 70-200 IS/USM f/2.8 If you never have a tripod fall over or light tip or anything ever come near your lens, including a cleaning cloth. Don't bother. If you do use filters, which I do, buy good ones, not some cheap junk. I don't know why someone would scrimp and use a crummy filter, which might make images worse, on an expensive lens. 😉 Last of all, besides being able to wipe the front of my lens with my shirt or anything else, without worry, when I'm in a rust. And the fact that the filter protects the from element from tiny little as well as big bad things That's why the big L lenses have no giant filter ring, besides obvious costs, and degradation. They already have a clear glass front element. I wonder if the pixel peepers have considered removing these for sharper images? 😀
  23. I like it better than the old links and no option to edit order or anything. https://www.alamy.com/portfolio/245438.html I would like to be able to do more than drop and drag, like "move to the end" like move to first. Or drag and drop to further back, multiple images. Good start.
  24. Is there someplace for for discussions and questions about Stockimo? I understand we're not supposed to use this forum for that. So Where? User group, chat, or anyplace? (or do I need to start one...)
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.