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Klinger

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About Klinger

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    http://peteklinger.com

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    Male
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    Great Place by a Great Lake

Alamy

  • Alamy URL
    https://www.alamy.com/contrib-browse.asp?cid={4393C9D4-9336-4ED8-8237-C20682A96EA4}&name=Peter+Klinger
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    2575
  • Joined Alamy
    15 Aug 2007

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  1. Just for some more help, a former thread on the same subject. Many more insights and comments.
  2. Yes the syncing / shutter Sync is why the camera has a maximum shutter speed of 1/200th. But that doesn't matter as the duration of the flash is now the speed. An on camera flash is about 1/500 of a second. Depending on how bright it needs to be, if the camera is TTL flash metering, that number could be even faster. Since you are so close, you could use the on camera flash and a diffuser. What you have to consider is flash + ambient light. If the flash is the main light, then your shutter speed could be 1/60th and it wouldn't matter. Say a very dark room. With light balancing, the flash is the fill light, at which point, you are at 1/200th of a second. There are other possible issues with color balance, say the flash is 6500K and your light is 5000K it's not going to be right and pretty much no amount of editing will ever get the white balance right. Mixed light. I think the different bits of advice, faster shutter speed, closed down, try to keep the ISO as low as you can, before things get blurred again as the ISO will add noise. Your starting point you mentioned, 100mm, 1/1000, f8, ISO3200 looks pretty good. I'd guess that 1/500th should still be fast enough to stop the motion, in which case you can lower your ISO to 1600? Pretty complicated considering it's just a cute little chick? Who'd have thought? Here's something to try, if you are interested. Put a white paper napkin over the flash? That will soften the light and at the same time, make it less bright. Close up and on camera flash, where is that flash aimed? Something else inexpensive, is have a white piece of card or paper, over the top, so that more light gets bounced down, which will fill the back and also give some more overhead lighting to the feathers. You can still use the on camera flash. If you cut the bottom off a bottle of alcohol, for example, that makes a nice flash diffuser. Any poly bottle and some rubber bands, say a milk bottle, you can make a flash diffuser. White translucent plastic. Just suggesting that using the flash will give you much more light, close up and stop the motion, at which point you can use a lower ISO. You'll still want the higher f number because you are so close. Shutter speed with a flash only becomes a problem when the ambient light is enough to produce a shadow or show the motion. Good luck, looks like fun.
  3. If you are positive the first upload batch will pass, there's nothing to stop you. If you are unsure, One Fail = All Fail includes ALL pending batches. I'm a three star, there's only room for 3, that's not unusual. Seems like the software upgrades when someone gains the higher status. It also seems to be at the discretion of the reviewers, not based on a calculation. I have no problems at the level I'm at and you are correct, reviews do not occur on weekends. I'm not one to worry that a photo that hasn't been anywhere, essentially forever, since the beginning of time, might take a couple more days to be seen by buyers. The exception would be News or current events.
  4. None of that should matter, series, similar, redundant, if they are accepted, they are accepted. Make sure all have pseudonym, caption, tags/keywords, license type and image type. Wait at least overnight. Just guessing but some data isn't there, or they would be on sale.
  5. Thanks, never used those, but I remember them. Never would have associated that Cokin with P mount. Now I'm starting to see how this is being done. 👍 This has really been an interesting thread to read and see various good ideas.
  6. Just wondered what you thought. Just being able to digitize old slides for myself is where I am at this point. I have done some old ones and they were disappointing, but with better digital cameras, and years later, working like you have, the results keep getting better. Eventually, even a "poor" quality image that's never going to be good enough for resale anywhere can be good for sharing. I'd say find a slide that's the last one you really care about, before using anything, pads, contact or chemicals. At least that way if the image comes off, sheds, distorts or anything else, you won't lose one you care about. One thing that's similar to sensor cleaning. One direction only, always the same, so if you drag some debris, it's going off the slide, not dragging back and forth. I did like the color and contrast results from yours so far, maybe you can add the specifics of editing or are you getting them that well, in camera now? Nice!
  7. I might not be following all of this, P mount or P adapter is? Plustex slide holder? Are you making the extension tube with slide adapter on the end? Looks nice, also looks a bit skewed, (I don't mean the tilt I mean the right side of the slide is closer to the lens) but later shots look square to the lens, perfect rectangle. Nice color. Here's the big question. Have you uploaded anything and has it passed Alamy review?
  8. Yes, that's what I concluded as my numbers are similar to what @lorenza is seeing. After going back and counting, round numbers, by pages, adding, anything else, I finally came to the conclusion, or best guess, that every single upload, deleted file, rejection, failed for size, upload error, or whatever else, in Image Manager, is in my All submissions Images: 2584 while my portfolio shows 2501 As far as I could determine, nothing is missing. 👍
  9. Most flu viruses can live one to two days on nonporous surfaces, and 8 to 12 hours on porous surfaces. Don't open it for a day? 👍 Sounds good! Very short version of M.Chapman's fine description. 35mm films have an image format of 36 x 24 mm. Digital cameras have the same ratio. But the cardboard mount doesn't. If I'm measuring and doing the math right, the opening in the mount is, 1.31" x 0.90" or 33.274mm x 22.86 = 1.45 instead of 1.5 ratio (3:2) So yes the image is cropped a bit on the top and bottom, which would make the edges go beyond the full image width, fitting on the sensor. Your idea to over shoot and crop sound good. 🙂
  10. Not sure how to do this? And I'll guess in advance, this is something I like and might have no appeal to anyone else here. Took me until March to get around to editing and uploading some of these. Takuma Sato Indycar driver at Road America 2019. 1/100th of a second
  11. Thank You, just some ideas to kick around. I got that one on eBay, hardly expensive, has sharp edges on the bottom of the tray. I don't know if I want to tape them or get out a rasp. 🙂 I only got that, after I got the rail working and discovered, alignment was important, all directions. I use it for the copy stand, overhead macro and shots too. Part of my problems with this has been, the camera moves sometimes as the stepper adjusts the camera distance. Weight. A smaller lighter camera, balanced, wouldn't have that as much. There's also some play in the screw, so I start short of the point I want to allow the lash in the drive to work out. Then shoot a few extra, in case. Here's a real stack and a mess. Step down rings, and a polarizing filter. Mounted the microscope objective to a lens. Close up of a sugar cookie. 🙂
  12. Good one, posted as I was writing. Nice and simple, uses what pretty much everyone here will already have, including Photoshop.
  13. I think this is a useful page for Extreme Macro http://extreme-macro.co.uk/focus-stacking/ And for general, and larger subjects http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html I've been dabbling in this recently, nothing wonderful or amazing. I hit projects, work on them, move to something else, move to something else. I've been told by someone who does extreme macro and some amazing work, (in other words I haven't reached that point yet) that moving the camera is best, because the lighting stays constant. Recent project, home made, the rail which is controlled by Arduino, and has a stepper motor that moves in very small increments. AKA macro rail. 😉 Lab scissors stand is very useful for getting the subject in the right place, straight on to the camera. The Aluminum blob is a poor subject and the rock wasn't much better. The microscope optic on the macro lens, wasn't the best idea either. So I had to order adapters and tubes. Software, free = I like free: http://www.picolay.de/ Not as good as the pay software that has been suggested, but it works. Listed as free for non-commercial purposes. Not Mine, example on the Picolay site I hope there's something useful in all that for someone just interested in the adventure and trying. Oh I left out, I also have a macro lens and extension tubes, so no added equipment or expense for the average person with a macro lens and tubes. Everything manual.
  14. Thanks Jill, in case someone else is looking, that will be helpful. Let me add, I uploaded vectors this week, they were accepted and I have managed the information. They went live overnight.
  15. Hello, anyone? I have the same question. I see that there's not much of a response. Maybe a bump will let someone notice the question? Also while we're at it, I saw a question about previews, being cropped? Someone else said I might want to upload with JPGs because the generated preview isn't very good. Those are things that can change, so I'd wonder what anyone with experience in Vectors on Alamy has to say? ps to Peter (and I'm also Pete) I used a different pseudonym from my photos for the illustrations and my vectors. I actually have three pseudos, one for Editorial, one for other photos and one for vectors and line art drawing. I'm not entirely convinced that doing that makes a difference to my rank, since people are reporting re-ranks are not common. But I did that, just in case. Most of what I do is so specific that the search does the job for me, not the rank and placement. Alamy diversity helps also. Everyone can't be on the first page, just by playing the rank game. 🙂
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