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Posts posted by DDoug

  1. On 29/01/2021 at 19:24, geogphotos said:

    Somebody contacted me wanting an image from my website and didn't want to pay much so I referred him to Alamy. I didn't want to be taking part in a Dutch auction because he actually stated that he knew the image was on Alamy. 


    When the sale appeared I emailed Alamy because this is an exclusive image and I should get 50%. The reply said that because the client came through my website Affiliate Commission has been charged - to be fair they might not have made the connection that its was my website - then again I wasn't aware that I am an Affiliate. 😜


    So, simple question, how do I get my Affiliate Commission? And secondary question wouldn't it be much easier just to give me the 50% straight? 


    28 January 2021 Sale 2BNBCFC Sale   41.69 1414.70 Uncleared
    28 January 2021 alamy Commission 2BNBCFC 43.50% 18.14   1396.56 Uncleared
    28 January 2021 Affiliate Commission 2BNBCFC 13% 5.42   1391.14 Uncleared


    Coincidentally, I was thinking about this question when I saw your post. The following sale came through a couple of days ago:


    Country: Worldwide
    Usage: Personal use, Personal prints, cards and gifts. Non-commercial use only, not for resale.
    Media: Non-commercial, one time, personal/home use
    Start: 23 February 2021
    End: 23 February 2026

    $ 15.99


    23 February 2021 alamy Commission 2E2RP88 43.50% 6.96

    23 February 2021 Affiliate Commission 2E2RP88 13% 2.08

    ...which leaves 6.95 for me, as opposed to eight bucks if there were no affiliate.


    I hadn't thought of joining the Affiliate program, although I do refer to Alamy for my own images. If I had done so and the sale had come through that, then the total would have been nine bucks instead of eight. Alamy loses a buck either way, so they must think that overall sales are increased by encouraging what looks to me rather like scalping.


    edit: P.S., the photo that sold was an old slide that I digitized and uploaded to Alamy six weeks ago. One place I do see it is Google Images, where a little flag pops up indicating that it is “licensable.”

  2. If you have Photoshop, LAB color separates the color information from the tonal information.

    Convert to LAB and select Lightness channel, which is the B&W element only.

    Copy that and paste in a new window and convert that back to RGB.

    (Tried to insert a sample from URL, but the system wouldn't accept it.)

  3. 21 hours ago, Phil Robinson said:

    I shoot a lot of verticals and a quick look over recent sales suggest they make up about 40% of sales. 
    I always use a camera with a battery pack on the bottom - not for the extra battery but for the vertical shutter release and controls. It really makes taking verticals easier and once you get used to it, it becomes second nature.

    Ditto the verticals, a holdover from when clients used to say "shoot more verticals" along with reminding me to have more shots with people in them. I don't carry the vertical battery grip much because of weight, but do like the vertical controls on occasion.

    On the other subject, I figure I'll finally start to become a European when I come to understand why a country the size of Sacramento County needs its own language. Till then I'll stick to the opinion that Lëtzebuergesch is more of a secret code than a language, something the Luxemburgers speak among themselves when they don't want to be understood by outsiders.

  4. 3 hours ago, Robert M Estall said:

    Most current cameras fall into the hand naturally to shoot horizontals and pay little attention to how they are going to work moving to the vertical shooting. A lot of that and photographers would soon be in need of physiotherapy. I once had a neat Fuji roll film camera which produced a vertical 4.5 x 6cm image when held in what appeared to be the natural horizontal shooting position. I liked it but didn't use it as much as I meant to. It got 15 shots from a standard 120 roll and 30 from a 220 roll. I never met any other photographer who embraced 220 film. It just made so much sense in so many ways.

    I also used a Fuji 645. A photographer I knew referred to it as my "point and shoot Hasselblad." I also used mostly 220 in that and a Pentax 645 I once had. Given that 35mm had the emulsion spread out over sprocket holes, leader and tail, with all of it packaged in a can within a can, it was quite wasteful. Using 220, which has a paper leader and tail and is packaged in foil, the cost worked about the same per frame as mounted 35mm for around 3X the film area.

  5. 20 hours ago, geogphotos said:



    I would have thought that most photographers do understand that 300dpi is the industry standard ( for whatever reason).



    150lpi, or lines per inch, is the standard for sheet-fed lithographic printing. The pixels/dots per inch of a photograph should be twice the lines per inch on the press, hence 300dpi. Prepress technicians will often use a higher resolution for raster images of typography, but the 2-1 ratio holds for photos.

  6. 1 hour ago, Regis said:

    I now have the X-100V and it is a great improvement on all of its predecessor.


    Hi Regis,

    I'm just a couple hours up the road from Fuji's facility in Germany, but still it would be a real bother to have to send the camera to them to get the sensor cleaned. Perhaps it's worth it to hold out for the X100V.


    One of the things that appeals to me about the X100 series is the unlimited synch speeds, making fill flash in bright daylight a snap.


    • Like 1
  7. 21 minutes ago, Harry Harrison said:

     It wasn't until the X100F and the subsequent X100V that they started using the NP-W126S battery and both cameras are excellent of course. Not truly pocketable though, especially with the lens hood fitted but very discreet.

    Good point. Probably a good used X100F would be the most bang for the buck and the earlier models wouldn't work for me. As to pockets, I usually have a vest in summer and jacket with large pockets in winter, so my idea of "pocketable" is fairly lax.

  8. I've also been considering getting a small, inconspicuous camera at some point. My main kit consists of Fuji XT bodies, generally at least two since I don't change lenses in the field. One thing I don't want is to pack along a different charger and set of batteries that would largely defeat the “small and light” benefit. I have an X-A5 I could use for the purpose if I could stand arm's-length photography, squinting at an LCD in bright daylight. For a pocketable camera with an EVF, I think something in the X100 series would be ideal.

    • Like 1
  9. On 16/09/2020 at 21:13, Betty LaRue said:

    It turned from blue to purple, pretty big change to my way of thinking. But such a small area of the image it’s easy to ignore.

    Desaturating magenta gets rid of the purple look without changing the red leaf much.

    Sometimes in resurrecting old images, one of the channels, often red, will be very muddy. Replacing it with one of the other channels will clear up the image, but the colors will be off. If they are selectively corrected (such as for skin tones), then an unusable image becomes at least passable.

  10. On 15/09/2020 at 23:20, Cal said:

    Does anyone have or has anyone ever had the four star rating? I've read about it in the contrib guidelines but I only ever hear of people talking about 5 star when above the standard 3.

    As some contributors are East Asian, it's probably a good policy to skip from three to five.

  11. To solve a problem such as Steve described, or to change the overall appearance of an image, I sometimes use channel substitution.


    For example: select and copy the green channel; convert to LAB color; select Lightness channel and paste the green channel; convert back to RGB color. This yields an image which has the same colors as before, but with the tones such as they would be on a black and white photo shot with a green filter.


    Similarly, a sky can be made more dramatic by using the red channel. Sometimes this works well and sometimes it's awful. Fun to experiment with in any case.


    edit: Coincidentally there was bright sunlight on a yellow Johanniskraut flower in the back yard this afternoon, so I made a sample including the basic shot, modified with the green channel and also with a mix of green and blue channels.

    • Upvote 1
  12. I'm in much the same situation, glad to have something to keep me busy while sequestered but somewhat daunted by the scope of the project. As well as the time to digitize the images, there is the fact that a lot of them are in cardboard mounts with rounded corners and, upon examination, raggedy edges. So I'm removing those and snapping the film into plastic mounts, marking the dates with indelible pens. Such fiddly hand work was never my thing.


    Anyway, in the process it's being handed off to my son and between us we decided that the best solution for us is to put them on the Web server we share for our sites, since the allowable storage is gigabytes more than we actually use. For backup, images are stored on BluRay M-discs.



  13. 1 hour ago, Harry Harrison said:

    I've found that they usually are, even my high priced Fuji/Leica one was and I think that's because they have to promise that they will focus on infinity, but not that the focus scale will be accurate. I've shimmed a couple out with 4 thou coke can and that fixed it for me. It was easy on the K&F Concept, straight shims were fine but for the Fuji one I had to stamp out tiny washers. However I do like to be able to read the distance off the focus scale for 'street photography' so it was worth it.

    I tried again and it sort of worked. I have a K&F Concept adapter for Minolta and it isn't bad. Not able to find one at the time I was looking for Nikon, I settled for a cheapie which goes by the brand name "Massa". It's wobbly and the f/stops come out on the bottom of the lens instead of the top for some reason. However, I can focus on the slide it takes up most of the frame so I'd have to say it works.

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