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Alan Gallery

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Everything posted by Alan Gallery

  1. Sorry I have not checked in. I am currently printing face shield frames for the NHS through this crowd source group: www.3dcrowd.uk So have been at it full tilt. I think I can work out from Ian's photos without filter what to reduce the length to. Anyone with the same lens who wants to be a test subject and who has a P mount to suit let me know. I think that I may have a gap in production while I wait for more plastic I need for them. UK only please for now.
  2. Thanks I will try to calculate what needs to be reduced to give more area of usable image with a reasonable margin.
  3. That might do it but a bit of a redesign in order. Because it is a lot longer than the one I use on the 30mm oly micro small errors are magnified 3x.
  4. Ian try pushing the side of the P ring opposite the thumbscrew inward and listen for a click. That might seat it properly.
  5. I think that the P adaptor is not seated properly on the thing. The only thing different between my test for alignment and your result is the 67mm P adaptor. It may be slightly thinner and not wedging in totally square as it should.
  6. OK 140mm it is. On a side note I have been noodling about searching for a film strip holder after deciding that designing* and printing one would be difficult to get right and may not work ever and not wanting to risk damaging my film scanners holder. So I ordered a new Plustek Film & Slide Holder on eBay to check out and see if it would be viable.
  7. I will send one I but I use -- www.srb-photographic.co.uk -- who have been making adaptors for photo and scientific since I was in short trousers.
  8. I'm doing this for the years we have semi known each other. No payment necessary. Do you have a 67mm P type adaptor?
  9. 3d printing yes. If Ian is happy to go with 133mm I will print it.
  10. I would be happy to make you one as a test to see how you get on with it if you give me some feedback. However, as to the distance I would be guessing because with the ES-2 I understand that it was racked in and out a bit. It would be ok to use a tape measure. Set it up as if copying from the lightbox so that you almost fill the frame with the slide image with a few mm all around. Measure from the end of the lens to the surface of the slide mount and take a few measurements from each side of the lens front and take an average - it would be better to err a bit on the longer side.
  11. This is the one I made. All is does is hold the slide at the distance that allows the image to almost fill the frame of my micro lens, allowing for a margin for in-camera focus stacking that crops a bit on Olympus. It uses a P type adaptor, that are cheap and easy to source from UK stock, to attach to the lens and allow for alignment. I had to use a step up ring from my 30mm micro lens because there were no P or A type adaptors available. While is looks very bulky it does have the benefit of killing any stray light because of the size and the uneven texture I printed on the inside of the tubular part. This iteration is for mounted slides so I will be designing a holder for strips that fits in the current guides. I can make one of these for anyone who on the list who wants one if they give me an accurate measurement of the distance from the front of their lens to a slide mount where the slide image almost fills the frame (in mm please).
  12. "Harry Harrison wrote: Is there much choice in the quality and properties of the plastic that can be used, strength, flexibility etc. and does that depend upon the type or expense of the 3D printer that you are using" PLA is the most widely used plastic, followed by ABS and ASA (thinking of car bumpers and trim, Lego etc.), PETG and PC (polycarbonate) in ascending order of difficulty to print. PLA is strong, stiff and will hold fine detail plus it does not warp during printing. Not good if printed parts subjected to temperatures above 70C and prolonged exposure to 40-50 C will warp -- that is a sunny inside window ledge in the UK for a few weeks. Great for quick test prints and prototyping. ABS and ASA are more difficult to print while being tough and resistant to higher temperatures. ASA resists UV damage and has better colour fastness. PETG (plastic bottles and food containers) and PC (very strong engineering plastic) both are a challenge to print well. There are flexible almost rubber like materials but are difficult. All but PLS smell a bit when printing. Almost all 3D printers that use filament rolls will print PLA while most will print the other plastics. The first baseline to consider is the largest thing you would want to print in one piece flat on the print bed like a film strip holder. I use a real Prusa i3 mk 2 and while not cheap is a good work horse and have given no trouble.
  13. I used Fusion 360 to design the adaptor. It is an engineering design program that can produce STL files that are the standard file type for all forms of 3D printing. The next step is to run the STL files through a Slicer program to create a set of instruction for the specific 3D printer and the material that is to be used. 3D printing involves the printer laying down a layer of plastic (in this case) for each slice until each part is complete.
  14. I made an adaptor, like the Nikon ES-2, for my 30mm Olympus micro lens that holds mounted slides at a distance that fills the frame. It is 3D printed and I could make the files available.
  15. Presentation use should be only available to businesses and recognised institutions. Possibly to students with ID. Only ever in sizes suitable for on-screen or half A4 print use. Covers are not presentation use.
  16. As of this morning GMT 8:39, still no update -- think about the hamsters.
  17. Try going to reverseimagesearch.org where you can search by a link to the image or upload a copy of the image using Google, Bing and Tineye. There is a plugin/add-on for Firefox called "Search by image" as well. Right click on the image you want to search for and select which search engine you want to use or you can access the upload feature from the task bar camera icon. it may be available for Chrome as well.
  18. DACS tweeted that everyone should have theirs by the middle of next week. Kerchingh!
  19. Marianne had a point about a MacBook and this is what I was addressing. Sorry if I disturbed the cosmic order.
  20. .MacBooks can be dismantled - see many fan fixes on YouTube - and seem to be more easily serviceable than your average laptop as far as accessing the fan/s.
  21. I have revived a few of my daughter's laptops by using canned air to blow out the fluff and dust. What happens is debris is sucked into the centrifugal fan from underneath and builds up behind the air slots in the radiator that vents out from the side of the laptop. I have stripped laptops down and removed the wad of fluff but it is a task and a half. To do it safely: Unplug the laptop and remove the battery if possible. With the battery removed let the laptop sit for a full minute before attempting to use the canned air to allow all capacitors to discharge. Arrange the laptop so that the vent at the bottom has clear space for debris to come out - overhanging the edge of a desk will do. Using a reasonably full air can and holding the can as vertical as possible so that no liquid comes out blow some short sharp blasts (If you see propellant liquid coming out stop and use a new can) through the vent at the side and hopefully most of the debris will be blown out. You need to do this along the full length of the side vent. You may need to pick out some persistent stuff from the bottom vent. If propellant liquid comes out don't worry it should evaporate in a short time but do not attach the battery or connect the laptop to a power supply until you are confident that all the propellant has evaporated. This will not remove all the debris but it is a simple way get it to around 85% clear. Modern Mac laptops/MacBooks seem to have a different arrangement of fans and it seems that there is generally a build-up of dirt on the fans as well so it would be a job for a technician.
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