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Posts posted by SFL

  1. The concept of Capture and Output sharpening was pioneered by Bruce Fraser in early 2000s who passed away many years ago.  The 'Detail' panel which we see in Lightroom was already incorporated in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) in Adobe Bridge CS3 (or earlier?, I don’t remember.  Please correct me if I am wrong.)


    By Capture Sharpening (recovering lost sharpness through digitisation), images becomes use-neutral, i.e. they are ready to go into any direction, that is, printing or website display, etc.  

    In case of printing, you then apply output sharpening according to print size, printing method, paper stocks, etc before you print.


    (Sorry have I just repeated what Pete Brigwood said?)


    I only have a Fuji X100s, so I can’t try what Pete Bridgwood suggests but since CS3, I have always applied Capture/Output sharpening whenever I need to print.


    Perhaps as Mark said it is not for Alamy submission, but it is necessary when you print images in my opinion.


    I am not an expert so any correction would be welcome.



  2. Thank fotDogue for the information.

    Since my thread on Tuesday until your reply, as no one responded, so that I decided to ask MS.  The following is their answer.  Hope it provides a bit clearer information.


    "Only the images you have restricted (by ticking Don't sell for Person use..... box in AIMwill be opted out of the distribution pool.

     All other images that are not restricted will still be included."



  3. 2 minutes ago, GS-Images said:

    My filenames are there on any AIM screen now. They never used to show until I clicked on the image to zoom it up. So that's a positive change that Alamy seem to have made. Thank you Alamy!


    There are many more simple changes to make to AIM though that are far more important please. With zero feedback, I'm unsure if they don't like any of our suggestions, don't read them, or don't know how to implement them? Like....changing the shade of grey? Changing the field that gets focus on reloads? Surely they're easy fixes? Please, it would help so much.  :)




    What a relief! At least I am not going mad. 

  4. 2 hours ago, Trevor Chriss said:

    Can you not see them under the discoverability bar? My file number and Alamy's ref are there. And yes they also show when zoomed.

    I have used this several times when checking my images.


    I just now noticed the numbers on the thumbnails themselves.  I am pretty sure, they weren't there before.


    OR AM I GOING MAD????? :wacko:

  5. 49 minutes ago, John Richmond said:

    You've got at least three Turk's cap squash in there.  They're the ones that look like they've got another squash growing out of the centre.  Other's I don't know but it would be worth looking in some of the online seed catalogues.  I tried growing a few years ago only to find I was allergic to them.  Shame, I quite like the taste.


    Thanks John. 

    I am sorry that you are allergic to them. 

    But I am sure you won't be alergic to my greenie. ?



    31 for 1570.

    A bit over my 2016 average.

    However one refund that brings last month's total down.

    Still around 17% less than 2016 so far.



    That's quite astounding Wim, well done.  :)



    Thank you! Still not in the big league though.






    Doc beat me to it.  


    Wim, you are a very modest man.  As Doc illustrated, you are in the very big league.  Very impressive.



  7. Found on the semesterinwashington.org website






    Picture of a swimming pool at Seine Maritime, Le Havre, France. Photographer: Hemis





    If you click on the page link above to Semester in Washington website, nearly all of the images have Alamy watermarks all over.


    Does that mean they have no intention of paying for the usages of the images or am I missing something?

    • Upvote 1

    The only way to opt out is to opt out of Personal use. Basically to order a print the buyer clicks on personal use then they get the option to buy a print. Its not an option on the first purchase page. If there is no personal use option they cannot reach the buy a print option. So again if you want to keep your distributor sales its another thing that you have to put up with along with personal use





    We need PROPER OPT OUT for this ABUSE and INSULT, not BLACKMAIL/RANSOM type of OPT OUT.


    Edit: change of font size




    Hi All


    How do we OPT OUT?????????????



    As far as I know, in order to opt out 'print', you need to opt out 'Personal Use'.  The problem is that by opting out 'Personal Use' you will be opted out automatically from Distribution Sales.


    The majority of contributors, if not all, want remain in Distribution Sales but opt out 'Personal Use' which Alamy don't/won't provide.

    • Upvote 4
  9. The only way to opt out is to opt out of Personal use. Basically to order a print the buyer clicks on personal use then they get the option to buy a print. Its not an option on the first purchase page. If there is no personal use option they cannot reach the buy a print option. So again if you want to keep your distributor sales its another thing that you have to put up with along with personal use





    We need PROPER OPT OUT for this ABUSE and INSULT, not BLACKMAIL/RANSOM type of OPT OUT.


    Edit: change of font size

    • Upvote 8
  10. Sunday Times 2nd


    P16 C8RBFW Justin Kase Paperchase shopfront in a shopping mall at the Westfield Centre at Stratford City

    BAJ0H7 SFL Travel Bad Weather & Train on platform, Surrey, UK

    AH8MEY Colin Underhill Name on HBOS Financial Services offices, Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, England, UK

    EAAMR2 Andrew Paterson Bright House shop in Chester city centre UK

    G1NEKK Illia Uriadnikov File Folder Labeled as Patents


    H9WCF3 TOBY MELVILLE A electronic billboard promoting the HS2 transport link development and the city of Birmingham is seen during the annual Conservative Party Conference in Birmingham, Britain

    D0YH9T Alison Rutter No Entry sign

    H4FE48 Justin Kase Tesco Extra and 24 hour shopping signs above ground floor covered customer car park for large supermarket





    Thank you Bryan for spotting this.


    • Upvote 1

    I don't want my images to go LIVE automatically as soon as they pass QC. Is there a way to disable this (annoying) new feature?




    Same here. Arterra is a small agency, so my pseudonyms are the names of the different Arterra photographers. My default pseudo is my name though. I don't want images to go live automatically with the wrong photographer's name.  







    If you upload images without captions (Descriptions), they won't go live automatically after QC.  

    It is a pain but it seems that we have no choice.  I made the query regarding this to Member Service and it was their reply.



  12. Are people actually selling B&W images here? I see them used as interior decoration in shops/cafes etc, but are they being bought through Alamy?


    I have found that genuine archival stuff sells (scans from B&W negs of long gone scenes), but is it worth uploading B&W versions of up to date stuff? 


    B&Ws do sell.  Although, in my case, they account for only 1.4% of total number of sales and one of them sells both in colour and B&W.  None of them are archival materials. 


    I think that It really depends on subject matters.  Some are suitable for BW but not all.



    • Upvote 1





    OK. I may have done myself in on this one. 


    This is something I always forget to check before submitting images, but for some reason I was paying attention today. 


    In looking at the image size of the B&W images I'm making, by stripping out all of the color, they are way under Alamy's lowest size of 17m. My greyscale conversions are coming out to be only 7m.

    Going by memory I think Alamy guidelines specify all images must be submitted as 8 bit colour - not actually "grayscale" files. So, for instance in Photoshop for my occasional B&W submissions I select "grayscale" mode discarding the colour then convert back to "RGB color" for Alamy submission - which restores the file size.


    John Crellin




    Omg! So easy! It was a final step that I missed/forgot about/didn't know!


    Thank you!





    Forgive my bluntness but you are doing this all wrong. You are throwing away most of your data in ACR when you are converting to grayscale in ACR and opening as a single channel grayscale file in Photoshop. You are obviously opening it into a Gray Gamma Color Space. This is the default in ACR when you hit the Convert to Grayscale tickbox. Effectively you are throwing away a huge amount of data and then adding back three identical channels at the end if you do what John says. This is not good practice at all.


    What you should be doing is opening the file into an RGB color space - AdobeRGB is a good one. You do this in ACR by clicking on the link at the bottom of the screen which will probably say something like Gray Gamma 2.2 16 bit bla bla. Click on this and then in the dialog box that opens up, choose AdobeRGB for your color space. You should also choose 16 bit for your conversion. Do all your Photoshop work and then at the end convert it to 8 bit if you want to save disk space. I tend to save mine as PSDs with any layers and then export the JPEGS from Lightroom.


    The important thing is to keep the file as RGB the whole time. You would see this clearly if you used any of the split toning in ACR. It has to be RGB as it is a coloured monochrome.


    If you used Lightroom, this wouldn't happen as you automatically open in an RGB color space if editing in Photoshop.


    Just to be clear I was talking about the final step only - Alamy want an rgb 8 bit jpeg file in Adobe RBG colour space. How you keep all the original information is up to your workflow (I always keep the original RAW file). What you submit to Alamy, if B&W, will not have all the information your camera recorded... 


    Going to grayscale and back is a handy way to create B&W - but obviously there are huge considerations about which colours to favour (akin to a filter in monochrome film photography) and I find it is useful to look at each colour channel alone as monochrome before deciding how to achieve the best end result.





    My point is that you shouldn't go to grayscale at all. It's far better to keep the file as RGB and there are numerous ways of doing a conversion to monochrome nowadays in Photoshop. The best way I think is to use a Black and White adjustment layer which is a totally non-destructive method and gives similar control with colour sliders to going to monochrome in ACR or Lightroom. But there are also other adjustment layer methods like desaturating using a HSL layer.


    You soon find out the importance of keeping the file in RGB if you ever do your own printing. You can't really print a grayscale file successfully on an inkjet printer - it needs to be RGB to control the inevitable colour casts. Similarly if you are sending a file out to a professional lab for printing, it should be RGB, not grayscale.


    The original raw is not relevant to this conversation. I always keep my raw files as well just in case I need to rework them from scratch. I am talking solely about the best ways to get good quality monochrome digital images (and prints). Most images need some work when opened in Photoshop, even if it is just a bit of spotting. I don't want to do Photoshop work multiple times on the same image. I always use adjustment layers for non-destructive editing in Photoshop and I often have colour and black and white versions of the same image in the one file. I keep everything as 16-bit until the final save or perhaps permanently depending on the image. The difference between 16 an 8 bit can be really evident in monochrome - the blue channel is often like noisy muck, particularly evident in skies. I save as PSD and keep all my PSDs as well.





    MDM explained much better than I did.

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