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SFL

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Posts posted by SFL

  1. I have a iMac (late 2012) with 2.9GHz Intel Core i5 & 16 GB Memory.

     

    It happened before a couple of times, but the last few days it is persistently repeating the same problem.  Usually when I switch on the machine, it makes the fan blow out air hard.

     

    In the past if I put the Mac to sleep, restart or shutdown and restart, the problem stopped.  However, this time, it is often and persistent.

     

    When I work, I usually have Safari with a half dozen tabs, Lightroom, dictionary, sometimes Photoshop on all at the same time.  But never very intensive heavy lifting in terms of processing images.

     

    I read on the internet about SMC (System Management Controller) and how to reset, which I followed but not very successful this time.

     

    How serious is this problem?  Is it the beginning of my Mac’s death?

     

    If there is someone with the same experience who successffully remedied the problem, I would like to hear how.

     

    Thanks you in advance

     

    Sung

     

  2. 1 hour ago, Nigel Kirby said:

    https://www.theguardian.com/law/2018/jul/31/judge-urges-cps-expand-review-disclosure-failures
    CTEDK2    Pak Hung Chan     Emblem outside Liverpool Crown Court. 'Dieu et mon Droit' (God and my right) is written at the bottom of the emblem

     

    Judging from the reflection on the window (left) and the , it looks more like CTJJMF by AKP Photos. Sorry for being picky.... 

     

    • Like 2
  3. 49 minutes ago, wiskerke said:

     

    About an inch or so on prints up to 40x50cm / 16x20. Above that about double. I used to dry my baryta prints on glass, taped with white acid free aquarel tape. Because that has a different tension it has to be cut off entirely. Applying the tape is not a very exact affair, there's always a couple of millimeters difference from print to print. The bigger the paper size, the wider the tape margin that's taped to the paper. Otherwise the drying and shrinking print tears itself loose or just glides from underneath a print when it still wet. A mistake you'll only make once or twice when you understand how the dynamics work. Besides I used to use an industrial tape dispenser with pretty exact moisture control - printers can get a bit anal when working alone in the dark for a long time. As someone remarked in the newspaper today: You tend to talk in yourself. Not too bad actually, because nobody will talk back at you. ;-)

    Now with printing on a printer I maintain about the same margin around the printed area. It allows for handling the print with bare hands; occasionally hitting the side to a tabletop and so on. And it's very useful when the print has to go behind a mat board. Two weeks ago we hung an entire exhibition with nails through the white margin. No frames no mat boards, nothing. Just that gorgeous matte Photo Rag. (They were not my photos btw.) None were signed on the front ;-).

    After we take the show down, we will just cut off the 5 or 6 miillimeter or so where the holes are and have a clean print again. Cutting off 2 sides is enough of course no need to cut off 4 sides.

     

    wim

     

    -Does anybody want 2 dried up Epson 7600's on their wheeled stands? Collect only. ;-)

    Thanks, wim, for the detailed info.  I also give an inch border on my prints, too.  Almost exclusively, 8x8" (10x10 inc border).

    As always, you are a source of rich information.

    Sung

     

  4. 1 hour ago, wiskerke said:

     

    On the regular Photo Rag 460 g/m about everything works. I've just tried a fine gel pen and a couple of pencils and they all work as they should.

    Do you maybe mean a Baryta or Glossy? Try rubbing it gently with a soft eraser first.

     

    Like Pete I signed my baryta  prints on the back in pencil. However I would also sign;  title and date  my prints in very fine pencil just outside the image in tiny characters just inside the mat board.

    At one point I even blind-stamped the print with my logo. Now that's pretentious. ;-)

    It's how you like it, but also a bit about what the current fashion is.

    Looking back mine now look very much seventies or eighties. My current plexi/dibond ones look dated in some places already too.

     

    wim

     

    Hi Wim

    Do your prints have a border? If so, how wide?

    Sung

  5. 1 hour ago, Dyn Llun said:

    I sell a lot of prints and never, ever sign on the front of the print or the mount, (although my galleries take care of most of the archival mounting and matting). I think it looks silly and pretentious on a photograph. Every print carries my name and copyright stamp on the back which has space for the title, negative date, print date, (very important for serious collectors), negative number and then a space for me to sign in. This authentication is important for serious collectors but better on the back within my stamp. 

    Pete Davis

    http://www.pete-davis-photography.com/

    http://peteslandscape.blogspot.com

     

    Hi Pete

    When you stamp your name & copyright etc on the back of a print, which ink do you use? Any particular favourite?

    Sung

     

     

  6. On 03/07/2018 at 09:36, Doc said:

    SFL - I presume that the customer re-bought an image they had bought in the past - I would be interested to know why Alamy deleted it?

     

    Kumar

    It was an image with A prefix so very old one. It was copyright issue with London Underground sign. Do you remember in the past Alamy deleted all the images with London Underground signs. It was one of those. Sorry for late reply. 

    Sung

  7. 22 hours ago, Jansos said:

    Talking about iPhones, I have the iPhone 6 SE (12MP resolution) and it sometimes allows me to post a pic to the Alamy app beginning with S and sometimes it says the size is too small ("photo must be at least 640 pixels in height and width"). Can't understand why this should vary. If the size is OK on one occasion it should work each time, if not it shouldn't work at all. I'm using the 12MP rear facing camera and not cropping the images so can't understand why some pass and others fail due to size. Any ideas?

     

    I am guessing here.  Perhaps you sometimes use the digital zoom (outward spread by using two fingers)?

     

    Sung

    • Like 1
  8. 4 hours ago, Allan Bell said:

     

    I will stay with my perpetual licence for LR6 and PSE14 for as long as possible, even if it means using the free DNG converter which I already have on the computer. It has not been used yet as I am unsure as to what effect it may have on the original legacy file from the camera/s I use/d.

     

    Allan

     

     

    You can convert RAWs to DNGs at the time of importing. It’s a built in function in LR 4, 5 & 6. I’ve been doing that for years. 99% of my RAW files are all DNGs. 

    Sung

  9. After I upgraded to High Sierra from Sierra, I had a problem with my CS6 & Nik Collection (CS6 crashed every time I used Nik Collection). 

    Although I found out that engineers from both Adobe & Apple are working together to resolve the issue,

    I feared that it may still be an issue with aging CS6 which I use.

    So I decided to revert to Sierra by using Time Machine backup.

     

    This link may be of use to you.

     

    https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/photoshop-and-macoshighsierra.html

     

    Sung

    • Upvote 1
  10. 40 minutes ago, ReeRay said:

     

    Thank you for the links, ReeRay.  I came across the same suggestion/solution else where, but when I use Nik filters, which is not that frequent, I, however, like the result editable, so that I can go back to it if necessary.  Therefore it was not a viable solution.

     

    Sung

  11. 29 minutes ago, MDM said:

     

    This is pretty obvious but worth stating nevertheless. Make sure you back up any data manually such as images, emails etc, particularly anything you created since installing High Sierra before attempting the restore.

     

    Also if you were to reinstall an older OS from scratch then you would have to reinstall all your software as well so the Time Machine option is probably better if you are not confident with thos. Having said that, reinstalling a Mac OS from scratch is fairly simple and straightforward and you end up with a new clean system. I used to do this regularly when I was a WIndows user many years ago although it is not really necessary with Macs I find.

     

    I have just finish reverting to OS 10.12 by using a Time Machine backup.:)  It was fairly straightforward and simpler than I feared.  As I said, I've never done it before so I was a bit nervous. All my images and 99% of docs I create are stored on an external hard drive, so I didn't have to recover the files I created after the installation of High Sierra, which made the whole procedure much simpler. 

     

    I guess it is like cleaning digital sensor.  Once you've done it, it will get easier second time. 

     

    Thank you for your tips, MDM.   Your input is always helpful.

     

    Sung

  12. 1 hour ago, fotoDogue said:

    I've heard High Sierra isn't compatible with quite a few programs which is why I haven't yet updated from Sierra.

     

    There are two ways to revert to an earlier system. You can format your hard drive and restore from a Time Machine back-up. I did this a couple of years ago when I needed to revert to Yosemite, The other option is to go to your previous purchases in the App Store and download the installer directly from Apple.

     

    This is discussed  on the Apple Support Site as well as how to make a boot disk of your system once you're downloaded the system.

    https://support.apple.com/

     

     

     

    Thanks, fotoDogue.  I am planning to revert to the previous OS Sierra (10.12) by using a Time Machine backup, as I didn't have any issues with it.  

     

    I checked out the 2nd option you suggested but the only OS listed in previous purchases is Maverick which I think maybe it is too outdated.

     

    I have never done this before, so I was feeling a bit nervous about it.  Hope everything goes fine.

     

    Thank you again for your advice.

     

    Sung

  13. Since I upgraded to High Sierra OS 10.13.1 (from OS 10.12), my Photoshop (CS6) crashes whenever I use Nik Collection within CS6. 

     

    My short research shows that there is an issue of compatibility between Photoshop CC (and earlier releases) & OS 10.13 High Sierra.  Please refer to the following link.  

     

    https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/photoshop-and-macoshighsierra.html

     

    Anyone who uses Nik Collection regularly with Photoshop, please do not upgrade your OS until the problem is sorted out between Adobe and Apple.

     

    To solve the problem, I decided to revert to previous OS 10.12 by using Time Machine.  I read a couple of articles about How To and it seems fairly straight forward.  

     

    Has anyone done this before?  Is there anything I need to be aware or be prepared, etc?  Any experience or advice would be very much appreciated.

     

    On Apple’s help page, it says "If you use Time Machine to back up your Mac, you can easily revert to a previous version of macOS if you experience trouble after installing an update. To select a Time Machine backup from an SMB server, your Mac must be running macOS Sierra.". What does it mean?  What is SMB server?

     

    I would be very grateful for your replies.

     

    Thanks

     

    Sung

     

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