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SFL

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About SFL

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    England

Alamy

  • Alamy URL
    https://www.alamy.com/contrib-browse.asp?cid={94C72186-C511-4135-855A-03454118CE77}&name=Iksung+Nah
  • Images
    10323
  • Joined Alamy
    30 Nov 2004

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  1. Betty what I am saying may not be what you are looking for, but you seem so desperate. Don’t use the knife, it not worth it. I am not sure about other things, but I might be able to help you with the last question. When you open a raw file from Bridge (using ACR), the setting for bit depth is under the main picture. You can change colour space, bit depth, resolution etc. Is this what you are looking for? If not, ignore my reply. I am sure MDM is on his way. International Rescue!!!! Sung
  2. I see. I will try Dropbox in that case. Thank you MDM. Sung
  3. I used to be able to do it in the old forum but now I can't figure out how to do it. I searched the forum with no success. I have a couple of screenshots which I want to include in a thread when I am asking a question for some advice. Please help. Thanks in advance. Sung
  4. Thanks, Johnnie5. Very useful info. Sung
  5. I think the photo of people on escalator looks as if it received too much treatment of noise reduction. (Mind you, I am looking at it on a very low budget laptop. I am away from home at them moment). Edit) and looks oversharpened IMHO. Sung
  6. Thank you, MDM As always very helpful advice. I will need to find at least a half day free and to sit down and go through the process. Not particularly looking forward to it. However, when I boot up from the external SSD drive, it is like a totally separate machine, therefore, I cannot access directly any files or apps inside of my iMac. Yes, It is the same machine but running on an OS from the external SSD drive, so it behaves like another machine. Hence I will need to reinstall CS6, Parallels (with Windows XP softwares), etc. Luckily all my working data (including photo files and others) are stored in an external hard drive, so I can access them from either OS as long as the drive is plugged in. Sung
  7. Following advice from helpful photographers on Alamy forum. (Previous threadhttps://discussion.alamy.com/topic/10382-photoshop-cs6-nik-collection-high-sierra/?tab=comments#comment-185792) Slowly I carried out what I had to do before I am ready to update to OS High Sierra as below. (I am currently running OS Sierra.) I purchased a SSD external drive. I formatted the external drive for iMac. I installed 'macOS Sierra' on this external drive. I went to through usual set up process. I reiterate that the only reason why I am doing this is that, even after I update to OS High Sierra or later on to Mojave, etc, I would like to be able to use certain applications, which might work only under macOS Sierra environment. Also it is a part of process of moving towards Adobe CC subscription (eventually but very slowly). When my iMac was rebooted from this SSD drive (macOS Sierra installed), it looks as if I have a brand new machine, ie, everything is at factory default with no files but only with Apple's bundled applications. My questions are:- Do I now have to go through 'migration process' to copy applications from the Macintosh HD to the SSD external drive? Is it possible at all when they are not actually two separate mac machines? When you migrate, does it copy application files or does it physically move files? Is it better to reinstall applications? If I reinstall applications, where are they installed? In the SSDdrive? I only need 4-5 applications in OS Sierra environment. Is there a better way? Given that I am not a techie, I hope my questions don't sound daft. One might say why not try and see what happens, but I am worried that I might mess things up completely. I look forward to your advice, suggestions and experiences. Many thanks Sung
  8. Oh, I see. ACR... So the same with the Lightroom. Never think it that way. It's pretty obvious, isn't it? With regard to interior shots, thank you again for the info. I have been using either several Gradient tools for various areas in LR or masks, layers and merging in PS to deal with this problem. Your are right, the more you do, the better you get. Thank you, Wim. Sung
  9. Thank you Wim for the detailed information. With my imited knowledge, a while ago I bought a LED because it was advertised as 'daylight balanced'. However as you say I also find it very greenish (though it looks like daylight to naked eyes). How do you measure the K degrees with Photoshop? Recently I have done quite a few interior photography for clients. A few places were lit by both daylightish lights (LED I guess) and very yellow lights. In post production, it was difficult/impossible to find a happy medium to balance both lights. Sung
  10. What is your LED's Kelvin degree? Can you buy a 6500K? A while ago, I bought a 6000K. Do you think it's good enough? I suppose you can only do reflective meter reading, but isn't your screen more reflective? Or is it negligible? Sung
  11. I would like to add a couple things to what I said earlier. When I mentioned my workflow about printing via a pro lab, I made an assumption that your monitor is calibrated (with a hardware). That is the first step in colour management. Without the monitor calibration, there is no point of soft proofing. A small (well known) tip. When you soft proof in either CS or Lightroom, just before clicking on the menu (I use shortcut, it is easier) or ticking the box of 'Soft Proof', look away. Otherwise, you will be horrified by the change. In reality the change itself is not that huge, but your eyes and brain are tricked by it. If you look away, you may notice that the change is subtler than otherwise. It is inevitable as the colour gamuts of RGB (image file) and CMYK (printer) are different, so you will loose some colours/saturation etc. That is why you need a printer profile. (The printer profile is a translator sitting between two different languages.) During soft proofing, you work on your image again to make the soft proofed version look as close as to the original version of your image by comparing the two side by side. As Bill mentioned, the result of prints will also look different according to which paper you use due to less white in specular highlights area, etc. (matt, lustre, metallic, textured...). I buy a sample pack of lab's paper stock and decide which paper I am going to use first and talk to the lab for advice and suggestions, which printer profiles, etc. That decision of what type of paper will also have an implication as to what type of printing method it is going to be (C type or Gliclée, etc). I am not claiming myself as an expert on colour mangagement, so please correct me if I gave any misinformation. Sung (PS) Writing is not my forte because English is not my first languague. I hope it is not badly explained.
  12. It might be irrelevant to your problem but when I send my files to pro lab, this is what I do. 1. I ask for printer profile from the lab. If they say they don’t have it, or they don’t need it, move on to the next pro lab. 2. With the printer profile installed, I carry out soft proof, in my case, in CS6. You can also use Lightroom. 3. When I am happy, I save it as highest quality jpeg and send it to them. No need for tiff. 4. I ask the pro lab, do not do any adjustments to the image when printing. 5. Soft proofing is not exact science as it relies on human eyes. But it is the only way to deal with the conversion from RGB to CMYK. Hope this is of any help. Sung Edit: few words added and deleted.
  13. Thanks for your info. Nice to know it is still available in certain shops. Sung
  14. Thank you very much everyone for sharing experiences and advice, you have been as always very helpful. Recently, I have been using Live View a lot, hence my batteries are getting knackered. Thank you for the link, Wim. Yes, you are right, MDM. I had better hurry just in case. Slightly off the topic, my EN EL3e batteries (D300, my backup) will not charge beyond approx 70%. Any advice, please? Sung
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