Jump to content

StanRohrer

Verified
  • Content Count

    77
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by StanRohrer


  1. I think Spacecadet is close. My understanding is that the whole LED panel flashes on and off. The amount of time On is the apparent brightness.

     

    Car LED tail lights are doing this now I notice. Medium brightness using a repeating cycle where the On time is about 50%. When the car brakes are applied they go brighter to 100% On time. The cycle frequency is usually just above human eye perception but try this: hold your head still, swing your eyes around quickly in a large circle, and mentally see if you can pick up dots or streaks. Dots will be the blinking LEDs, streaks will be 100% on LEDs or incandescent.

     

    Spacecadet might also be right if the case is a "moving" image on the display. The image shows a B, then the image panel goes Off and the B steps one LED to the left, then the image lights, and repeats. The bus and the lighted/blinking sign are speed mismatched enough that each successive sign blink is at a different bus location by enough distance to be able to see the individual blinks.


  2. Many years ago I sold off some film based gear. My local camera store told me I was better off on eBay. The store has to buy at low price, checkout and clean the gear, make sure it works, get a price markup margin, and still sell it at a price someone might desire for used gear. So eBay, or the like, may not sell for the used store price, but some of the middle man money ends up in the sellers pocket. A good eBay feedback record and truthful (or even slightly critical) descriptions are my recipe for a happy eBay customer/transaction.

    • Upvote 1

  3. Some of these units described in the links have optics in the attachments. Low cost slide copiers would have me concerned about optics quality. Would it not be possible to rig up a viable light, a slide holder (paper clip?), and shoot with a high quality macro lens?  A cardboard box sealed for light control and perhaps slide mounting might be an acceptable cheap home project. Just another reason for me to buy a macro lens! (No, I have not tried this approach - yet).


  4. I think clipping paths do increase the value of an image. In some of the complex images I do it would save an hour or 2 for very large print sizes if I include the clipping path. Unfortunately, I don't think Alamy preserves clipping paths when selling to the customer. Hence my images with good detailed and clean clipping paths tend to get placed with other agencies that do preserve the paths. I wish Alamy would preserve the paths.


  5. Jill, if you search "Canfield Fair" you will see my fair shots. Unfortunately, they do not sell well enough in recent years to cover my fair mileage, tickets, funnel cakes, Stromboli, and Coke.  On the other hand, I can write these off as photo business expense (USA) and still enjoy a day shooting at the fair.


  6. Jill, I can handhold down to 1/10th with my IS (sometimes). And these fairs usually have bright lighting. I don't like flash for a situation such as yours. I don't think the subject matter of people at a fair would work with a tripod or table pod either. 

     

    Stan, do you reduce the noise in PP? When an image is noisy I don't submit it to Alamy, but on almost anything I shoot at ISO 800 or even 1,600 I can correct and dissolve the noise in Lightroom 5. 

     

    Ed,

    I have both passed and failed with ISO 800 batches from the Canon 7D. Occasionally I post process with the Imagenomic Noiseware plugin for Photoshop. I do not use Lightroom. I use  the Weak Noise settings or my own Very Weak Noise settings. I get afraid of getting the surfaces too artificially syrup smooth if I go to higher settings. Perhaps smoother might pass better but I'v not tried due to loss of fine detail. I don't think I have ever submitted ISO 1600 shots.


  7. I've had Alamy rejections on my Canon 7D at ISO 800 recently. I think Alamy is getting a tighter on quality. I carry a tripod for Fair shots at night. If in the middle of a crowd I try to keep the legs close and use it more like a "stabilized" mono pod. Generally shots in a crowd don't work for me and I try to find a bit higher vantage point off to the side of the crowd. Then I use a full tripod. Sometimes even cranking it to max height to get above and shoot across the crowd. 


  8. Well if I ever get the chance to snap a historic moment that demands a bit of help selling then I'll be sure to hire the right person for the job lol 

     

    On a ten minute notice, how do i find the right person next year while the then breaking news is still hot? What outlets should be on my pocket list "just in case"? Do the local (USA) newspapers do the syndication? How about TV stations? I certainly don't understand how this all works and may need some of these memory cells remaining on the day I need it.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.