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Everything posted by M.Chapman

  1. Ensure you have brighton pavilion in the Caption and as a supertag phrase (i.e. enter both words into Alamy Image manger without a comma between, press + to add them, then click the star so it turns blue). After that it's down to your Alamy rank which depends on a number of performance factors which Alamy don't disclose, but are believed to be based on things like your CTR% and possibly sales history. The position of an individual image can also be improved if it's been zoomed before using the same search term, and for some searches Alamy may prioritise newer images. Mark
  2. I did thanks, I've made a note of those ratios for future reference. This is a screenshot of the very useful tool PSE 8 provides together with the image (I also downloaded a copy from the forum posting) after adjustment of the hand area only.. Mark
  3. I also prefer the result after your suggested adjustment, plus I also set an overall WB off the rim of the bowl. I also tried using PSE which conveniently has an "adjust for natural skin tone" eyedropper which produces a result somewhere in the middle (to my eyes anyway). Why hasn't PS CC also got this feature - or maybe it has but I haven't found it. Mark
  4. Previously Alamy only updated "contributor's rank" every 180 days and it's believed that a contributor's rank was based on CTR and other measures of performance (Alamy don't disclose the exact details). So changes in BHZ image position tended to happen every 6 months just after a re-rank. But, so far as I'm aware, there hasn't been a re-rank in well over a year now. Bottom line is don't expect the position of your image to change in response to short term changes in your CTR, unless of course Alamy changes the way they place our images. Mark
  5. 17MB is the minimum uncompressed 8 bit image size required by Alamy. This means the uncompressed image must contain at least 17 MegaBytes (=17,825,792 bytes) of 8 bit image data. Since each pixel is stored using 3 bytes of data (1 byte each for Red, Green and Blue channels) the minimum number of pixels required by Alamy equates to 17,825,792/3 = 5,941,930 pixels So, as a useful guide, just make sure your image contains at least 6 million pixels, and you'll be OK, e.g. a 3000 x 2000 image is fine. When you save the image in a jpg format file the image data is compressed to save disk space, so you will see the file size will be considerably smaller, but that's OK. Mark
  6. Photoshop can convert the TIFF file perfectly (loading a TIFF and storing as a JPG is a straightforward mathematical conversion). But, whether the final JPG will pass *normal Alamy QC will depend on other things:- 1) The quality of the image in the original transparency (depends on exposure, lens quality, focus, film stock, photo technique etc.) 2) The quality of the slide preparation (cleaning and mounting) and the scanner quality 3) Any adjustments (edits) you make in Photoshop (to remove dust, improve colour and contrast, crop edges etc.) and whether you decide to downsize the image (you may want to downsize to 3000 x 2000 pixels to maximise chances of passing Alamy QC) 4) The quality level of the JPG you select to store the converted image in. JPGs are a compressed format which discards information, if you select a low quality JPG the image data will be highly compressed which will loose detail and introduce compression artefacts. For Alamy you should select a JPG Quality level 10 (~90%) or above and use sRGB or Adobe RGB colour space and "Baseline" standard format and ensure the image contains at least 6,000,000 million pixels (for example 3000 x 2000 pixels). *Note that if Alamy deems your images as being suitable for upload via the archive route, they can bypass the normal Alamy QC checks. Good luck. Mark
  7. Looks like you're perhaps a bit more computer "savvy" than you like to admit and you also have a computer that can do what you need. What you need now is a Photo editor and a bit of help to get you started. I think Harry's idea of finding a local camera club is a really good idea. Failing that (and if you don't want to spend any money) then you could try downloading the free 30 day trial of Photoshop Elements 2020 from Adobe and having a play with it. I just tried it and it can do the TIFF to JPG conversion you need either on an image by image basis, or automatically (subject to a key constraint below) on a whole folder of images (using the File>Process Multiple Files option). Constraint - When Photoshop Elements converts a batch of image files from TIFF to JPG it preserves the color space of the original file. This will be fine if your TIFF images are already using AdobeRGB or sRGB colour space because Alamy will accept either of these. But if your TIFF images are using a different colour space it may cause problems. Single images can be converted one at a time though as the convert colour profile option is available during editing if needed. PS. Alternatively you could try the Free Adobe Bridge 2020 software which can also do the conversion (subject to the same constraint above). But this software won't let you edit your images if they need cropping, enhancing or dust spotting etc. which I imagine they will. PPS. I also tried out the free FastStone image program (which Brian mentioned earlier in this thread) which can also do conversion from TIFF to JPG, but it seems to remove the colour profile information during the conversion from TIFF to JPG, so I don't think it's suitable for producing JPGs for Alamy. Mark
  8. Oh dear, sorry I missed that. Duh!! I must learn to read!! Mark
  9. It's not my workflow at all. I don't use FastStone (although I have a copy). I was simply commenting on your suggestion that Flo and Paul could use it. My workflow uses BreezeBrowser (for image culling organising and sorting) and PS CC for everything else, including colour space conversion. Sorry for any confusion. Mark
  10. Good idea although I don't know it will do a better job? Won't the end result be the same? FastStone offers more "bells and whistles”, but the UI is more complex as a result and technically it's only free for "home use" (which I assume therefore excludes commercial use?). I also can't spot any option to convert colour space (maybe you know how) so perhaps FastStone (like Bridge) may rely on the TIFFs already being in sRGB or AdobeRGB colour space. Mark
  11. Yes, I was surprised Bridge can convert image file formats without PS installed. One option that I don't see is colour space conversion so it will only work for Alamy submissions if the TIFFs are already using AdobeRGB or sRGB colour space. I'm now back at my computer so I took a closer look at your copies at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7i8l15lkro04so7/AACJ-k1UW4ZwslyUD1hav2eda?dl=0. I like the end result and I'd have risked it with Alamy QC too. I guess you don't know whether that image was actually inspected or not. Was it submitted on it's own or as part of a larger submission? I hope to get onto digitising some 35mm Velvia slides and submitting to Alamy sometime this Winter. In the meantime, here's a link to a couple of my attempts from earlier in the year. Setup was Lumix G7 camera + 45mm macro lens on tripod photographing 35mm Velvia slide on top of an upside down B&Q LED downlighter. They were photographed in RAW and then processed using an ACR preset I derived from a Velvia photo of my Passport Colorchecker. I'm not posting these because I think they are particularly good or bad, but more for comment at this stage. Mark
  12. I've done some digging, and from what I can see Adobe Bridge is FREE and could be used to browse through the TIFF format images you have on DVD and then EXPORT any images files you select in JPG format to a new location (e.g. computer hard disk) at a user selected quality level and size. Obviously this wouldn't allow you to edit the images in any way, but it might at least allow you to produce some un-edited jpgs that you could submit to Alamy to see if they pass QC. It's far from an ideal approach, as I suspect your images are MOST LIKELY to need editing to pass QC so it would be best to use Photoshop (Elements) rather than Bridge. But, if you really don't want to spend any money at this stage, and you'd like further help to try Adobe Bridge, please let us know. The first questions will be 1) What computer do you have? 2) Do you know what operating system is it running and which version? (Mac OSX, Windows, Linux etc.) 3) Does it have a DVD reader that can read your dual layer DVDs Mark
  13. So how did you manage to upload over 1,000 images to Alamy?? Something doesn’t add up here. TIFF is a file format which we think has been used to store your scans on DVD. The filenames of each scanned image on your DVDs probably end in .tif or .tiff. JPG or JPEG is simply another file format used for storing images, it uses filenames that end in .jpg or .jpeg. This is the format that Alamy needs and which you have already been uploading. It’s easy to open a TIFF file from your DVD and then save as a JPG file on your computers hard disk using pretty much any image editor (as MDM said). Personally I’d recommend Photoshop Elements because it is cheaper and simpler than Photoshop but still has the batch processing capability that will allow the conversion of many files from TIFF format to JPG format to be automated. Mark
  14. My problem was less about a lack of dynamic range in the sensor, and more to do with creating a default preset which remapped the tonal range of Velvia into something that looks sensible and retrieves some of the detail from the shadows. I currently find that the shadow detail is frequently blocked out in the “as digitised” scan and needs lifting. Mark
  15. Thanks. I’m travelling at the moment, but will take a closer look at your files when I get back, and may post some of mine too. Ouch those Icelights are pricey... Mark
  16. The tool is called Photoshop. In batch mode it can read hundreds of files from your DVD, convert them into a format suitable for Alamy (jpg) using just a few clicks and write them too a new disk. It *really* isn’t that difficult. Whether they will pass Alamy QC is another matter which will depend on the quality of your original slides and the scans. If you have limited computer skills, then you may need to find a friend or someone to do it for you. Although, if you have limited computer skills, how are you participating in this forum, or uploading images to Alamy??? Makes no sense to me, using PS to do the conversion is EASY. Mark
  17. Autofocus (contrast based) works for me using decent macro lens and mirrorless camera. I restrict AF area to central zone. Mark
  18. Fascinating, thanks for posting, especially the Dropbox images. I’ve a few questions. What light source are you using and what WB are you using as your default in LR? When I copy Velvia with I have considerable problems with the contrasty nature of Velvia. Are you applying any particular adjustment of preset to overcome this? I found WB was a particular problem. If I set WB from the highlights (i.e. basically the film base) the mid-tones came out with a blue or magenta cast. In the end I took a photo on Velvia of my Passport colour checker target in sunlight, digitised the slide (DSLR + macro lens), and then built a preset (individual adjusted R,G and B curves) to get a neutral and even tonal spread. Mark
  19. What a bizarre thread this is. I don’t understand why you are so against Photoshop (PS) or using any tools. You have presumably already made a considerable investment in getting so many images digitised and stored and have spent lots of time contributing to this thread. Maybe you don’t understand how easy it is to use PS to convert (not edit) a whole folder of images from one format to another and to resize if needed. There’s no need to learn about “complicated” PS editing or spend lots of money. Just buy a copy of PS Elements (secondhand on eBay for £20-40 if you want to save money) and use the batch convert function. It will take you less time to learn than you’ve already spent participating in this forum discussion. If you are receptive to taking this route then you’ll get help here easily. NB. My “no editing” route assumes you had high quality clean slides and scans which simply need format conversion and downsizing and don’t need further editing. Mark
  20. You can only submit mobile phone images using the Stockimo app, but bizarrely we’re not allowed to discuss that here. Mark
  21. It's caused by mouse movement. If the mouse moves even a tiny amount as you click, the star won't turn blue. It helps to set a higher zoom level in the browser or turn down mouse sensitivity. If mouse movement is detected, the code assumes that you intended to click and drag the tag somewhere, for example to combine one tag with another. Not sure if it's a problem on all browsers/systems but I certainly see the "whack a mole" challenge on my MacBook running Chrome. Mark
  22. But in principle the oscillation I mention only occurs if re-ranks are occurring. I've seen no evidence of a re-rank for well over a year (possibly 2?). You seem to be reporting a much shorter term effect, which I imagine could simply be down to normal statistical variation? The oscillation I see is on my rolling 12 month average of my views. I used a 12 month rolling average to remove seasonal effects. Every time a rerank occurs that shifts my position, the views start trending towards a new level, and they tend to go up after one rerank and then down after the next. I also saw similar up and down movement in my BHZ position. If t moved up after one rerank, it moved down after the next. Mark
  23. In the days when Alamy used to do regular reranks I found my performance oscillated with a roughly 6 month period (reranks nominally every 180 days). If my rank rose then I received more views (as a result of less specific matches appearing higher in search results) but without a corresponding increase in zooms. So my CTR suffered. Then, when the next re-rank happened, my rank would drop back again and views would fall back too. Mark
  24. Over the last 12 months I had 47,530 views and 64 sales giving a ratio of 743 views/sale, which I imagine is not particularly good. NB. I had to manually exclude some refunded sales which My Alamy Measures was still counting as sales. Anyone else care to share their numbers? Given that Alamy is running a business where it costs to host every image and revenue is more important than unit sales, I'd argue that an even more sensible measure, from Alamy's perspective, would be to take the annual sales revenue divided by the number of image in a contributor's portfolio. Although the lag between uploading images and sales occurring would make it hard for new contributors to get a good rank. But then that applies to views/sale too. Mark
  25. From my posting in the other thread. In 2017 I asked Alamy how many of my sales Alamy had the ISBN nos for and whether they would make a claim for the "distinct royalty pot" and they replied as follows. As we are not claiming DACS on your behalf this year we don’t know any of the ISBN numbers so we can’t tell you how many we would have claimed for but it is likely to have been the same if not more than you claimed for. It is a lot of extra work for us to find out this information which is why we take a cut. We did submit claims for the ‘distinct royalty pot’ for all contributors eligible and we claimed for all sales where we had the ISBN numbers. Mark
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