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Everything posted by MDM

  1. Not the case with the older manual focus Nikkors (AIS lenses). The best of these are still excellent corner to corner even on the latest 36MP cameras.
  2. This should be very simple. Just connect the camera to the Mac. Turn the camera on. It doesn't show as a drive in the finder so it is necessary to use a program such as Bridge (which you have and use I know from your previous posts) in the same way as downloading images from an iPhone to a Mac. Open Bridge and under the File menu, select Get Photos from Camera. If the camera is properly connected and the card is not damaged, a dialog will open up and you should be able to download the images to your computer.
  3. I see pretty much what NYCat and John see and I would be worried as a colour photographer if I didn't. There is actually an objective way of looking at this - save the image to your computer, open in Photoshop (or any other program with a colour measurement tool) and use the eyedropper and the info panel. Allthough the images here are pixellated so causing some strange colour effects in the white areas , the basic conclusions from this exercise are that there are three distinctly different sets of colours: white and gold, similar with a strong blue-magenta cast ( the lavender and bronze of
  4. As Armstrong says, just delete and re-submit. Had it gone on sale, an email to Member Services would be required to ask for it to be replaced, as once on sale, images take several months to be deleted from the system.
  5. There are excellent deals from very reputable UK suppliers such as WEX and Grays of Westmister at the moment on the D810 if you trade in an existing DSLR.
  6. It's always worth having another browser installed when things like this happen. Firefox is a good browser. Sometimes something will work in Firefox and not Safari and vice versa.
  7. Welcome back Geoff. That is a great link. I had never heard of this procedure but those who have tried it seem to swear by it. I had a single hot pixel or hotspot on my D800E which seems to have disappeared so presumably performing a double sensor-cleaning procedure has inadvertently cured it. The bad news for Armstrong is that the procedure doesn't work in the D7000 according to something I read by the original poster on the dpreview forum - that was 2013 though.
  8. I would have thought the spot healing brush working on individual hot pixels would be the tool of choice in Photoshop. I only have one that I have ever noticed. Do you have a lot of hot pixels? I don't know what is normal but I would imagine that more than a few per sensor would be beyond tolerance.
  9. I just logged in to Alamy using Firefox (Mac) but I can't log in using Safari - odd.
  10. It sounds like you should be alright with the particular camera you got unless the seller went to a lot of trouble forging documents and the black spot on the bottom. If Nikon won’t tell you if it’s been fixed, and you really don’t trust that it has been, then you could try going through the process of sending it back. At some point in setting up the return, they must check the actual serial number to see if it has been repaired. The flare is supposewdlyvery difficult to reproduce. If you really like the camera, which you obviously did from your other thread, then that doesn’t change. By all
  11. The option to save the original raw in the DNG addresses the concerns about manufacturer-specific features - I am pretty sure that is why they included this option. As for the details of DNG, Jeff Schewe's book The Digital Negative (I think that is what it is called) is probably the best place to get the lowdown without reading the actual DNG specifications. It's an excellent update on the excellent Fraser and Schewe books on ACR, which is where I got my info originally. I tend to absorb what I need for my own purposes and forget about the first principles. Life is too short for me to dig
  12. I don't know the answer to that as I don't have any non-Adobe programs at the moment. When I posted the first reply, I was mainly thinking of the ability to export the raws and xmps rather than relying on the catalogue to be read by 3rd party programs. How much of the information such programs can read is another matter. I do think that DNG would be the safest way to go in any case if one was leaving Adobe, as this is likely to be more widely implemented by 3rd party programs and offers the best long-term security for raw files. The original raws can be stored within the DNGs as an option
  13. It does need an explicit second step though. Martin is correct in saying that the "Develop" data is held in the LR catalog. XMP sidecars are only created if you tell LR to do so either automatically (which is not recommended) or with a manual key press/mouse click "Save" command. I stand corrected. I've always set the prefs to write the xmps automatically. The basic premise of what I was saying doesn't really change though - if one was abandoning LR and had not created the xmps, then it would be a simple matter of creating the xmps by saving the data - it wouldn't be lost.
  14. I was referring to the statement "..that too is stored in the catalog", really to clarify that there is nothing to fear about using Lightroom as a raw converter - the settings are not lost as long as the xmp files are kept with the raws.
  15. That is not correct Martin. The development settings are held in sidecar xmp files and can be opened by any program capable of reading the xmp files. This would include Adobe's own DNG converter and the DNG files could be opened in any program capable of reading DNG. Perhaps you are confusing Lightroom with ACR. In ACR, you have a choice of storing the development metadata in the ACR database or as sidecar xmp files. The latter option is definitely preferable for future proofing.
  16. If you are happy with 2nd hand, then the D800E is a superb camera and there is not a lot of difference between it and the 810. The lack of anti-alias filter definitely makes a difference in terms of sharpness and both have that (implemented differently). The shutter is a lot quieter in the 810 but most of the tweaks seem to be quite minor. If you are intending to shoot video, then the 810 is supposedly quite an improvement but I have no experience there. Good luck with it whatever you decide.
  17. Very tempting - the trade-in offer that is - and the Tamron lens is supposedly excellent. http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-nikon-d810-digital-slr-camera-body/p1556074
  18. The 24 2.8 and 28 2.8 AIS lenses are very light and apparently very available 2nd hand at reasonable prices (according to Don in other thread). I have both but the 28 got damaged some years ago and resides peacefully in a drawer - I was told it couldn't be repaired. It is one of the best lenses Nikon have ever made - very sharp, flare resistant and beautiful colours. The 24 is not as sharp across the field, noticeable particularly on the D800 at full size on screen (the 24 AFD is similar) but would be fine on a 24MP camera.
  19. I've never heard any complaints about Nikon on durability but this is where one might want to be thinking 800 as these are very robust machines. I've not tried with my current kit, but by old D700s (very similar build externally to the 800s) hit the ground several times, and although scarred, did continue to (and apparently still do) function perfectly. Apparently the 750, although lighter is also made out of some special alloy made to last.
  20. The only time I've noticed any mirror slap is close-up and I use the mirror-up as I'm shooting static subjects. I've shot loads of long exposures on landscapes and buildings and not had any problem with shake due to the mirror. Focus is critical though as depth of field is significantly reduced at 36MP full screen. I shot some portraits a few days ago in lowish light with an old manual focus Tamron 90 (a really sharp lens) at wide aperture and was shocked by the number I had out of focus. My eyesight is not what it used to be unfortunately.
  21. Summer has arrived early in Chicago then?
  22. For an objective and quantitative assessment of your questions, check out http://www.dxomark.com - there are some direct comparisons of recent cameras as well as detailed tests and reviews. There is no doubt from reading the dxo tests that Nikon is currently way ahead on dynamic range. This is not some fantasy world for pixel peepers or serial upgraders - it makes a real difference to image quality being able to drag back shadows and highlights. This is not new - the D700 broke this ground in the prosumer market back in 2008. I switched from Canon back to Nikon then and there was a massive
  23. You could consider Lightroom for its database capabilites as well as resolving the llittle glitch, especially if rumours that it is going to be subscription only are true. Bridge can be painfully buggy. I used it for years until late 2012 when I gave LR a try and I've never looked back. It is vastly better than Bridge as a database/organiser and has the same raw converter.
  24. A major downside to subscription is that you no longer have the use of the software if you cancel the subscription. So it's permanent if you need the software. And they can and usually do increase the price over the initial offer.
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