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Everything posted by MDM

  1. The reason for this is that the file is 16-bit and JPEGS are 8-bit only. You really do need to start with the basics. There are loads of good books out there - I would recommend Martin Evening Lightroom for a start.
  2. this was straight out of camera, handheld during a partly cloudy day... but thanks for the info. so i assume you recommend i submit the one with the bird. The Tamron 24-70 f2.8 is an excellent zoom and has image stabilisation (VR) which works very well. I got one of these recently and have been really impressed at the quality and sharpness on my D800 and we are both (me and the camera) really fussy. You can easily shoot at 1/80 or slower at any focal length hand-held if you use it properly - let it stabilise before you focus and don't use VR if you put it on a tripod. Stop it down to f5.
  3. Actual pixels and 100% are the same thing so what you are saying doesn't add up. Are you generating 1:1 previews in Lightroom. My preference is to view images at actual pixels in Photoshop for judging focus in any case as there is no waiting for a preview to build and it is much faster to move around images than Lightroom. It's my understanding that Lightroom automatically generates a 1:1 preview anytime an image is zoomed in for close-up inspection. I don't create 1:1 previews for every image imported into the LR Catalog. I just use the LR 1:1 preview rendered when I choose to
  4. You should maybe weigh up what it's going to cost you not having your Mac for a week or two against the price of a new external USB3 hard drive (assuming your Mac is USB3). These are less than £100 here now and are fast enough to keep and open your images from them rather than from an internal drive. You could back up your OS in case of internal drive failure and make sure everything else is backed up externally as well. This is basically the thinking with the newer Macs now anyway, with a smallish solid state internal drive and everything else external. I have found that USB3 is as fast as Th
  5. Actual pixels and 100% are the same thing so what you are saying doesn't add up. Are you generating 1:1 previews in Lightroom. My preference is to view images at actual pixels in Photoshop for judging focus in any case as there is no waiting for a preview to build and it is much faster to move around images than Lightroom. Professional quality imagery is the key here and for any images that are being provided for sale.
  6. Whoever told you not to zoom to 100% is talking through the wrong orifice. This is the only way to properly check focus on an image. If you are so new that you don't understand the basics, then the sensible thing would be to learn the trade first and then consider submitting to Alamy. For example, do you know why you are shooting in raw only? There is a lot to learn and it is such fun but, given your questions, I guess that Alamy is several steps down the line for you. This is not the place to actually learn photogaphy but you will get great advice when you have achieved a certain level - able
  7. To me the answer is very simple. The location is the exact spot where the camera was placed. This is totally objective, in this case Hereshire. This is what a GPS would say. The only way it could then involve two counties would be if the camera was placed in a position that actually straddled the border. The subject of the picture is the bridge which is then described in the description and in the keywords. Thereshire and Hereshire would also be included in the keywords and the description. To take a few examples, I have loads of pictures of Teide Volcano in Tenerife taken from three of t
  8. ACR in PS Elements is far from the full ACR. Several tools and options are missing (probably including Lens Corrections of which the CA removal is a part). An easy way to find out would be to download the trial (now V13).
  9. If one was starting from scratch, then the D750 is a very good alternative to the D800 family, but (in my opinion) trading in a D800 for a D750 would only be sensible if one really wanted or needed some of the new features of the D750. The trade-in would cost £750-1000. The great thing about the D800 is that it can generally be used as a smaller megapixel camera if you downsize but you still have all the advantages of the large file size - incredible detail, cropability (very useful indeed) etc. I think some seriously erroneous myths have built up around the D800 series cameras - they are not
  10. OK but (forgive my ignorance) if you shoot AWB can't you just switch to daylight in PP anyway if shoting RAW? Yes it doesn't matter what WB you use for raws. I just use AWB and then As Shot in LR as a starting point when processing raws. It can be and frequently is way off so I modify this to taste in the raw conversion. This is why the question of how cameras measure it (original post) is of interest to me and still unresolved it seems, but it's only academic if shooting raw .
  11. Don't hold your breath. Adobe never provide ACR updates for older versions of LR or PS. The exception is PSCS6, as that is final version of Photoshop perpetual license, but they don't provide updates of new features in PSCC, only ACR. LR6 is definitely an advance on LR5 though so worth thinking about and the upgrade price was reasonable when I got it.
  12. I would say neither at the moment unless Alamy put it on the approved camera list. According to the blurb, it's a standalone small, high-megapixel camera that attaches to an iPhone which can be used as a viewfinder but is not involved in the picture taking.
  13. Yes. Another reason I was surprised to get an apparent fail so quickly.
  14. Talking about QC times and lunchtime, I made my first submission in several months yesterday and, just after I had finished lunch today, I received an email with the dreaded fail word. Now I had checked the images throroughly and I have not failed in 3 years so I was surprised. I was even more surprised when I went to check what had failed and found that there was no rejection reason given for any of the 82 images. I emailed MS and got a rapid response saying they would check it out. WIthin a few more minutes I got another email saying they had made a mistake and the submission should have pas
  15. Having a 5D2 as opposed to something newer and shinier, I don't mind a little lumpiness to skies and will often add noise to masks and filtered layers to add texture to images. BTW, the new CC 2015 out today has added the Mercury graphics to healing/spotting/fills...... vvvroooom.... I was really surprised when I discovered how bad my skies looked in B&W even at ISO 100, as I am using D800 cameras and the noise control is generally excellent at low ISO. This sky noise is not noticeable in colour at low ISO but becomes even more apparent when converted to 8-bit B&W. So I had to
  16. I have a similar workflow to Geoff. I have default settings which are applied to the raw files on import, including CA removal and vibrance (saturation I leave at 0 as a default). I use the basic sliders to get the exposure, highlights and shadows right and I use the curves in traditional mode as I am used to using curves and find it gives the best control over whole-image contrast. In addition to the basic sliders, I use the grad filter a lot. This is not only very useful for darkening skies in landscapes, but can also be used for lightening or darkening large areas of images in a subtle or n
  17. JPEGs use a lossy compression algorithm which means that they can lose quality each time they are saved. If you are not intending to further edit in Photoshop or some other program, then exporting straight to JPEG is fine. For those who do additional work in Photoshop, then saving in a non-lossy format such as TIFF or PSD, which I prefer, is wise. Alamy's original guidance refers to working on TIFFs and comes from a time before Lightroom when most people post-processed in Photoshop or Elements.
  18. There is no facility on the forum for posting images as such - you would need to put them on the web somewhere and link them. You would need to have crops at 100% for anybody to give a reasonable judgement. Your initial submission just needs to demonstrate that you can take a decent picture - sharp and properly exposed as in the Alamy guidelines. Sunsets and images with motion blur for the initial submission are not the way to go initially. Alamy QC doesn't care about the image content so you don't need to demonstrate artisitic abiiities. My advice is to submit 4 simple sharp images which
  19. This is a question I have asked more than once and so far have not had an answer. I've searched the web but to no avail. From very limited experimentation myself in the last few minutes after reading this post, I think that whatever senses AWB (on a Nikon D800 at least) uses the whole area (or certainly more than the spot meter). Using a 24-70 zoom, I took 4 shots - 2 at the 24 end spot and matrix, 2 at the 70 end spot and matrix. The shots at the 70 end had little else but my bathroom window (frosted glass looking out) and the AWB from both shots were virtually the same (around 4900 +21).
  20. The only difference between the D800 and the D800E is the disabling of the AA filter which makes the E even sharper. The D810 has no AA filter and has a few improvements which make it the absolute king of the lot (in my opinion).
  21. I would highly recommend the D800E, although the difference in sharpness in comparison to the D800 is only really evident at 100% screen view or thereabours, or if you are making large prints. There is a very definite difference though. Removing the AA filter is no cosmetic trick, it really does work. When I got mine, I took shots with a 50mm Nikkor from my back garden with neighbouring roofs and they were astoundingly sharp even in comparison to the excellent D800. I've never experienced moire in nearly 3 years of using it although it is said that architectural images may be more prone to tha
  22. Agree but they worked perfectly on the D700 12MP - if properly marked they correspond to the depth of field tables that used to be supplied with lenses. Speaking of which, I blame you for encouraging me to buy a Zeiss lens late last year. I did and then another one followed thanks . Objectives of beauty and incredibly sharp - why would I want to desharpen them (interesting technique though).
  23. I don't quite understand as you say below that you are getting really sharp images with the 50 and 35. What is the source of the pain? You can simulate a 12 MP camera simply by downsizing your images. A properly focused D800 image downsized to 4250 pixels is better than a D700 image. The same technical considerations (good lenses, accurate focusing etc) are required with the D800E. Used with say a 50, the results in terms of detail and sharpness are wow wow wow in comparison to the D800 which is a mere wow wow. The lack of the AA filter won't make any difference in terms of technique. From
  24. Yes but tell that to Alamy QC if you submit a landscape image intended to be sharp front to back taken on a D800 using hyperfocal focusing barrel markings (always effective with smaller MP sensors). It's similar to the concept of viewing distance. The middle distance to background will be soft to very soft when viewed at 100%. "It's only apparently softer Mister QC, please view it at a smaller size on screen". That doesn't happen. If I want to know that the images I take will pass Alamy QC at full size, then I cannot use the traditional barrel markings - I've worked out my own settings for fro
  25. That's what i was trying to say. You get less DoF on 5x4 than 35mm. because you use a 150 instead of a 50, not because it's 5x4. The physical sensor sizes of the D700 and D800 are the same so it's not anything to do with thie above quote or with cropped sensors etc. Viewed at the same size on screen the two are very similar but the difference is evident when viewed at 100% on screen. What I am saying is based on simple observation, not theory, and would definitely result in very poor images and QC failure if not taken into account. I'll post some examples when I get a chance.
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